Ive recently purchased a CD 30 Ketch,with md7a.It has no manual need to know the starting procedure.Thanks Jody K
jody_kaplan@hotmail.com
Volvo Md7a,starting procedure.
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Neil Gordon
Re: Volvo Md7a,starting procedure.
>>Ive recently purchased a CD 30 Ketch,with md7a.It has no manual need to know the starting procedure.<<
It couldn't be easier...
Make sure the seacock is open so you get cooling water. Turn the battery switch to your starting battery or to "both." Disengage the transmission and put the throttle in neutral. Turn key. (The motor on LIQUIDITY starts on the first compression.)
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
neil@nrgordon.com
It couldn't be easier...
Make sure the seacock is open so you get cooling water. Turn the battery switch to your starting battery or to "both." Disengage the transmission and put the throttle in neutral. Turn key. (The motor on LIQUIDITY starts on the first compression.)
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
neil@nrgordon.com
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Larry DeMers
Re: Volvo Md7a,starting procedure.
Neils procedure is how it should work..simply and right away.
Now if it does not start right away, such as in very cold climates or with a worn engine, or one needing head and cylinder ring repair, here is what I did:
First try the normal method that Neil speaks to. If it refuses to fire, advance the throttle slowly as you crank. That should admit more fuel, creating a better seal with leaky rings, giving more heat to the fuel, igniting it. You will hear it start to fire up. Once it does start firing, advance the throttle as needed to maintain a running condition. Frequently it will start on one cylinder first, run roughly, then settle down as the second cylinder comes on.
A caveat here. Cranking a diesel that does not fire pushes water through the engine into the waterlift muffler. It accumualtes (slowly) here, and will cause a problem for you eventually if the engine does not fire (as the engines exhaust is what pushes the water through the waterlift muffler, into the exhaust system, and out of the boat). The accumulating water will eventually back up into the engine, creating damage through hydrlocking the cylinders. Bent piston rods are the usual result. Be careful to remove the bottom plug on the muffler to drain the water out while cranking for extended times..!!**BUT..then replace it after the engine is running**!! <what a mess that would be!>
Lastly, if it still refuses to start, you can use the spin-up method, where you release the compression lever, opening the valves up. Crank the engine for a period of time (say 3-5 sec.), then close the compression release lever quickly while cranking. It will usually fire right away.
Realize that the enigne should fire immediately, as Neil says..on the first compression stroke. Engines with poor compression or stuck or leaky valves will take longer to build up enough heat to fire the diesel off. This is an indication of the engines need for a mechanics attention. Ours took up to 30 minutes to start one time. We had it rebuilt, and for 4 years now, it starts on the first compression stroke..down to about 10 deg. F. After that it takes a few sec. of cranking and an advanced throttle position to start it...but it will start reliably.
Good Luck!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
Now if it does not start right away, such as in very cold climates or with a worn engine, or one needing head and cylinder ring repair, here is what I did:
First try the normal method that Neil speaks to. If it refuses to fire, advance the throttle slowly as you crank. That should admit more fuel, creating a better seal with leaky rings, giving more heat to the fuel, igniting it. You will hear it start to fire up. Once it does start firing, advance the throttle as needed to maintain a running condition. Frequently it will start on one cylinder first, run roughly, then settle down as the second cylinder comes on.
A caveat here. Cranking a diesel that does not fire pushes water through the engine into the waterlift muffler. It accumualtes (slowly) here, and will cause a problem for you eventually if the engine does not fire (as the engines exhaust is what pushes the water through the waterlift muffler, into the exhaust system, and out of the boat). The accumulating water will eventually back up into the engine, creating damage through hydrlocking the cylinders. Bent piston rods are the usual result. Be careful to remove the bottom plug on the muffler to drain the water out while cranking for extended times..!!**BUT..then replace it after the engine is running**!! <what a mess that would be!>
Lastly, if it still refuses to start, you can use the spin-up method, where you release the compression lever, opening the valves up. Crank the engine for a period of time (say 3-5 sec.), then close the compression release lever quickly while cranking. It will usually fire right away.
Realize that the enigne should fire immediately, as Neil says..on the first compression stroke. Engines with poor compression or stuck or leaky valves will take longer to build up enough heat to fire the diesel off. This is an indication of the engines need for a mechanics attention. Ours took up to 30 minutes to start one time. We had it rebuilt, and for 4 years now, it starts on the first compression stroke..down to about 10 deg. F. After that it takes a few sec. of cranking and an advanced throttle position to start it...but it will start reliably.
Good Luck!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Jody Kaplan wrote: Ive recently purchased a CD 30 Ketch,with md7a.It has no manual need to know the starting procedure.Thanks Jody K
demers@sgi.com