Replacing Engine Mounts on CD30 MkII

[Khaos13]

Hello Folks, I'm still working on the old Westerbeke W21A and need to raise the engine enough to remove the oil pan and con rod end caps for piston removal. The engine was seized due to rust on the cylinder walls. The head's been redone, injectors and injection pump redone by Everglades Diesel Service here in FLL. Short story endless: low compression. I believe the rings are frozen in the grooves. I'd also like to hone the cylinders.

The port side forward engine mount was badly rusted away by a leaking raw water pump. (The pan looks to be fine.) While attempting to remove the 3/8" SS bolts that hold the mount to the bed, one of them broke off deep in the hole. I was expecting a lag bolt into some glassed over wood but it was a regular threaded bolt. Does anyone know what inside the engine bed? I'd like to change all 4 mounts (if the engine runs) but I'd like to know how to repair the mounting bolts in case another one (or 2) breaks.

Thank you in advance for any insight you can provide.

Cheers,
Dan

[jbenagh]

Sorry, I can't help. Yet. I think CC may be approaching this problem so I look forward to hearing what you learn.
Jeff

[sgbernd]

I'd pull the engine and take it home. Trying to do what you are attempting while leaving it in place is very difficult. With the engine out, safely on your work bench at home, one of two things will become apparent;

1) the old engine is not economically repairable, and needs to be replaced. In the process, you will end up modifying the beds because the new geometry will be different than the old. In this case the broken bolts and rusted steel plate under the glass get ground out, and you prepare the engine room to receive whatever engine you will install.

2) the old engine is economically repairable, you bench test it, and are ready to reinstall. In this case you now have access to try the usual tricks to extract the broken fasteners (liquid wrench, torch, hammer, extractor, drills and easy out, etc.).

My son and I pulled my old Volvo MD7, and the second time, it took 4hrs from start to getting it secured in the back of our mini-van. The first time took a bit longer as I didn't know what I was doing. But trying to pull the pistons and then extract a broken fastener with the engine in place seems very difficult due to space constraints and interference.

-Steve

[Khaos13]

Thanks Steve but removing the engine from the boat is not an option. I've removed the oil pan and can easily remove the end caps. With the shaft disconnected, it took very little lifting with a crow bar and very little blocking to get the engine high enough to do this and I was able to leave all of the hoses and wiring attached. I ordered 2 new mounts (Dual Flex 2205-2) from Go2 Marine. These seem to be EXACTLY what CD used originally. As for the broken bolt in the engine bed, I may cut a hole in the side to get at whatever is inside there. I'll keep you posted.

[gonesail]

a dock neighbor of mine lifted a westerbeke out of his Sabre 34 and on to a cart .. on the finger pier .. which they wheeled over to a truck. they used the boom with double halyards .. to do the lifting.

[Khaos13]

ALL pistons out and ALL rings stuck in the grooves. Plenty of room to hone and a new set of rings... voila!!

[gonesail]

i wish you luck Khaos. the CD30 does have fairly good access to the top of the engine and i guess you are taking advantage of that. are you using westerbeke or K3D parts? either way i hope you can get it running. also following on cruisers forum.

[Khaos13]

K3D parts. RIK rings from Amazon $100. BRM Flex Hone $40. Free labor!!!

[gonesail]

K3D parts. RIK rings from Amazon $100. BRM Flex Hone $40. Free labor!!!

good to know. i did a search and saw a lot of K3d parts on amazon. i did not realize that the cylinders were sleeved.

[Khaos13]

These engine are not really sleeved. They sell sleeves for them but you'd have to have the engine bored to make room for them. As I understand it, the sleeves are unfinished so you'd still need machine shop work to ensure they are round with the correct piston clearance. I'll be measuring for this with a telescopic bore gauge but honing will have to suffice. Rings ARE available .05 mm (.0020") over.