The steel diesel tank in by '75 CD 28 did not survive the Michigan winter and the contents are now in the bilge. I'm going to have it replaced and would welcome and appreciate any advice on the subject. It sure doesn't seem to make sense repairing it --- or does it?
nicopp@usol.com
CD28 Diesel Tanks
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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john evans
Re: CD28 Diesel Tanks
Get yourself an aluminum tank and be done with it. Why mess with god awful carbon steel?Nick Oppermann wrote: The steel diesel tank in by '75 CD 28 did not survive the Michigan winter and the contents are now in the bilge. I'm going to have it replaced and would welcome and appreciate any advice on the subject. It sure doesn't seem to make sense repairing it --- or does it?
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Nick Oppermann
Re: CD28 Diesel Tanks
Good advice. Any suggestions on where I can get a good aluminum tank?john evans wrote:Get yourself an aluminum tank and be done with it. Why mess with god awful carbon steel?Nick Oppermann wrote: The steel diesel tank in by '75 CD 28 did not survive the Michigan winter and the contents are now in the bilge. I'm going to have it replaced and would welcome and appreciate any advice on the subject. It sure doesn't seem to make sense repairing it --- or does it?
nicopp@usol.com
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wayne grenier
Re: CD28 Diesel Tanks
I have a 74 28' replaced both tanks last year-guess what-they come out and go inthrough the engine compartment-you have to pull your motor-I made some drawings and faxed them to 3 places that advertise for replacement tanks in Soundings magazine-I went with a firm in N.J. and in a week I had 2 brand new tanks ups'ed to my door-for about $300-they only use epoxy coated aluminium-and are c.g.aproved-you need to drain as much fuel out of your tanks as possible as it wieghs about 8lbs per gall. and the fun part is replacing all the fuel lines (you might as well-since they are probably circa 1975-and bleeding them-I found a very helpful auto/spped shop in this area that does alot with boats-I used fuel injection line hose and fuel injection line clmaps as well as brass automotive fittings as I kept gettting air leaks and I find by the time you get a conventional hose clamp tight enough it will start to cut through the hose-also those "hose barbs" the marine stores sell you do not work as well as the automotive kind-which have a flange at the end and then are smooth-the marine ones have many indentations ( I don't know if I explained that clearly enough) I used 5/16 hose throughout-by the way-do you know the hose from your lift pump to your filter has a "metric banjo fitting pressed onto it-so to replace it you need to get it from a volvo dealer (assuming you have a volvo) and it costs about $100-obviously once the tanks are replaced you will have no worries about crap in the tanks clogging your filter-so its probably not a bad idea to replace them every 25 years or so-wether they need it or not-guess what happens if they leak into your bilge while your boat is in the water and the bilge pump pumps it overboard and someone calls the harbormaster and the coast guard brings in "clean harbors" and they put booms around your boat and charge you $10,000 for a cleanup and your insurance company tells you your policy has a "polution Exclusion" ? happens all the time! good luck-you can get smaller tanks made that will go in and out through the seat covers-but then you will have to change the way they are bolted in-E-Mail me if you want more info-Nick Oppermann wrote:Good advice. Any suggestions on where I can get a good aluminum tank?john evans wrote:Get yourself an aluminum tank and be done with it. Why mess with god awful carbon steel?Nick Oppermann wrote: The steel diesel tank in by '75 CD 28 did not survive the Michigan winter and the contents are now in the bilge. I'm going to have it replaced and would welcome and appreciate any advice on the subject. It sure doesn't seem to make sense repairing it --- or does it?
grenier@ma.ultranet.com
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Mike
Re: CD28 Diesel Tanks
Rather than the expense and trouble of buying or having made steel or aluminumized steel or whatever, I would look at the "plastic" (not the red stuff) ones that are now available and are designed for permanent installation below decks. Given their construction, they ought to have a half life many times that of the old fashioned steel/aluminium ones. Should last far longer than monel as well. We put a 12 gallon one in our Pearson Triton a few years ago and are quite satisfied. Mike
michaelconniesmith@home.com
michaelconniesmith@home.com