Ty Weekender Teak Project

[ty3]

I'm stripping all of the teak using a heat gun & scraper. Going great, but my question is this ---- for anyone who has done this, what did you find the best method was for stripping the inside of the toe rail? Not much height there ( maybe an inch ) and worried about effecting the deck by using the heat gun.

Appreciate any help that can be offered. Many thanks.

Ty3

[John Stone]

Ty3
You should be able to use your pull scraper on the inside of the toe-rail. And you should only be pulling, never pushing when stripping varnish. I recommend double tapping with 3M 233 solvent resistant tape. The heat gun is in constant motion . . . warm the varnish in sweeping motion with one hand then flip up the gun then strip with the other hand pulling on the scraper. Should not take long.

I also highly recommend the book Brightwork—The Art of Finishing Wood by Rebecca Wittman. It’s pretty much the gold standard for everything you want to know about caring for wood on a boat.

[Walter Hobbs]

Ty3,

This doesn't answer your question, but I have one for you. Is your boat inside or is your ambient temp 50 or 60 degrees? Can you varnish right away?

I'm doing a similar project on my CD 27. But the boat is outside in New England. So my plan is to strip it now but can't varnish until spring temperatures will allow varnishing. I hope to strip it all over the winter and leave it bare until spring. Then a sanding to 220 and begin the multicoat process. Am I wasting my time now and have to re strip in the spring?

Eventually it will be covered. At least the bare teak will be out of the weather.

I have Wittman's book and will follow her suggestions as closely as I am able.

[Paul D.]

I restored a Typhoon including remaking some, and refinishing all, of the wood work. Our 33 needed an entire brightwork refinishing job too when we got her. I too use the heat gun method but prefer not to tape unless really, really needed when varnishing.

I would try a red devil 1" scraper #3010 for the inside of the toerail. This is my go to scraper for any close woodwork scraping. I also like a plain old cabinet scraper as well.

Preferred album to scrape teak by - Quadrophenia by The Who or pretty much anything by the Replacements or lately Big Thief. I tend not to go Beethoven or Corelli when doing brightwork. Now sewing sails is another story...

Good luck!

[ty3]

Thanks for responses all. Yes, I also have Rebecca Wittman's book and it has been a huge help to me. However I am thinking of using Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak Finish vs. varnish. Any thoughts on that??

I have an inside heated garage so no worries about finishing over the winter. Will use heat gun/scraper for inside of toe rails......

Quadraphenia would be most welcome, though I tend towards Van Morrison/Solomon Burke/Jackson Browne/and mixed playlists!!

Will post pics when I'm finished and thanks again for your feedback.

Ty3

[John Stone]

Thanks for responses all. Yes, I also have Rebecca Wittman's book and it has been a huge help to me. However I am thinking of using Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak Finish vs. varnish. Any thoughts on that??

Ty3

I’m the wrong guy to ask about anything other than varnish for bright work. I acknowledge that many people like cetol but I’m not one of them. However, were it me, I would not varnish toe rails. Here are the reason why: Toe rails have a hard life. Lines run across them. People step on them. Gear gets dragged across them. The horizontal surfaces take direct overhead sunlight. They take a beating. Every time you refinish them you have to tape both sides.

I’d leave them bare. It will still require care to keep from going ugly grey but it only requires washing with some soapy water and a wash cloth every couple weeks. If I was determined to varnish them I would put a bare teak cap on top of the toe rail the same way I did on my varnished cockpit coaming. it looks great and vastly extends the life of the varnish.

[Sea Hunt Video]

I believe a lot of sailors, including me, have had success with Cetol Marine Natural Teak (3 coats) and then Cetol Clear Gloss (2 coats). It is simple to apply (throw away foam brushes or similar in various sizes), dries reasonably quickly and is easy to clean up any small spills, etc.

[sloopjohnl]

cetol for the toerails and varnish for the rest. nice combo i have used since '90. easy spring commissioning by washing down the toerails with soap and water followed by a coat of cetol. two coats at most. any dings, a little sanding before applying cetol.

[shavdog]

The only thing I don't like about sickens is that after about 4 yrs, there is buildup and you might as well start over....

[Dick Villamil]

I have been using Cetol Light for many years with a lot of success. After scraping and a light sanding wiping the teak with acetone to remove the oils then apply the first coat. When it is dry to the touch add a second then a third coat. Each year clean, reapply any dings where the cetol has been chipped as soon as possible. Cetol is very easy to remove with the heat gun. For the toe rails use a wide flange nozzle on the heat gun turned parallel to the deck. No need to overheat, just get the varnish warm before scraping. Just be sure to stir the cetol light thoroughly to get any settled material re-suspended before using.