Typhoon Senior Foredeck Horn Cleat Backing Plate Questions

[MHBsailor]

Since I'm in the Northeast and it's going to be winter for a while longer, I still have time to think about spring projects. One situation which concerns me are the two small (aluminum?) backing plates for the foredeck horn clean on my Typhoon Senior. I read a great article entitled "Mooring Pendants Thoughts & Musings" at [urlhttps://pbase.com/mainecruising/mooring_pendants&page=1][/url] and purchased a Yale "Maxi-Moor Pendant" (although now I know I need a second longer pendant too) and got to thinking as good as this product is reputed to be, it won't be any good if the foredeck horn cleat gets ripped out of the foredeck in a storm. The article also recommended reinforcing the bow chock backing plates as well to ensure they don't get ripped out and turn into a knife edge and cut the pendant.

So I'm thinking about using some modern backing material like G10 but I'm not sure what thickness or for that matter what dimensions. I'm also wondering if I should use a single circular backing place of 6-8 (or maybe 10) inches to help spread the load over more of the foredeck. Finally, how does one get two 5/8-in mooring pendants around a single foredeck horn cleat? Should I install a larger horn cleat while I'm at it (or even a Sampson post, although I'd prefer to try to keep it looking like a Cape Dory). I look forward to reading your advice. Cheers! JD

[Jim Walsh]

I’m not familiar with how the foredeck is laid out on your boat, the photo is missing strategic detail.
I will surmise you have chocks port and starboard and the area forward of your existing cleat is clear.
Since you are willing to make improvements you might consider adding two properly sized Herreshoff cleats forward and outboard of your existing cleat, dedicated to your mooring pendants. These would be used in conjunction with your existing chocks (if suitably sized). Your existing cleat will remain and be dedicated to your anchor rode.
I’m a fan of G10 but you can also check your local welding/fabricating shop and see if they have anything in their scrap bin which is a suitable size. 3/16” or 1/4” stainless or aluminum would be fine. I lucked out in such a manner a few years ago at Mystic Stainless when I was looking for a backing plate for my windlass.

[Frenchy]

The idea of using two cleats is a good one and in fact is how many of our boats were originally set up - including mine.
I would eliminate the center cleat, though. Too often it snags the jib sheet when coming about and is a toe stubber and
generally in the way when working on the foredeck. - Jean

[MHBsailor]

Thanks Jim and Jean. I posted two new photos which better show the foredeck layout. As you can see, there is what I presume is the standard Cape Dory bronze bow stem head (?) fitting which has the P/S chocks built-in and the one foredeck horn cleat. I've fiddled with the two retractable integral stainless steel "bolts" in the stem head and still haven't figured out how to get them to lock in place securely to ensure the mooring pendants don't come out of them while at mooring. Will post some more photos the next time I go out to check on her, but right now she's under shrink wrap and it's snowing here.

[MHBsailor]

The weather was finally decent enough to visit the boat and I was able to take the attached photo which appears to show some kind "bump" in the liner so I'm surmising there must be some kind of backing plate (presumable wood) between the bottom of the foredeck and the liner. Therefore, I'm not sure how much changing the two aluminum strips for a single backing plate using 1/4" or 3/8" G10 would help in terms of better spreading the load and thus increase the load the foredeck horn cleat could handle before being ripped out? I'm in a well-protected area that other boats seek shelter in when the big storms go by so it may be a moot point. One advantage of removing it and replacing it with two side-mounted cleats is that it would be easier to use a two pendant mooring setup, but I'm apprehensive of where to mount the cleats and what kind of backing plates to use. I'm wondering if CD22s came with a two-cleat setup (I neglected to notice that detail when I looked at several a couple of years ago)?