How to convert/set up trailer and bunks for typhoon?

[InfiniteElement]

Hi folks,
I'm looking at getting a typhoon or similar small Alberg full keeler like an ensign. Many do not come with a trailer. I have a Ram 2500 4wd capable of towing most anything.

I have a good size double axle aluminum trailer for my 22ft power boat. It sits fairly low to the ground and the cross members have a little "v" to them, so the tops of the cross members are about 19" off the pavement. Trailer is 23.5 ft from ball to last cross member.

I'd rather use one trailer for both boats. How can I REVERSIBLY convert such an aluminum trailer to carry a small full keel sailboat?

I can lay down a 2x10 or 2x12 treated wood, with carpet, for the keel. That's easy.

I imagine I need a square tubing bunk support about 3' long, that I can bolt on, with angle braces leading inward and fwd/back to stabilize. 4 of those. WHERE DO I FIND SUCH A THING? This has to be an off the shelf part, I just don't know how/where to look??

I have seen some all-wood cradles which would be easy to put together on site, but not sure if those are to be trusted.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[steveg]

Hello IE,

One way of doing so would be to build a cradle for the Ty and fasten it to the trailer. Wood cradles are frequently used for storage and transport. The only potential problem with the wood cradle is if you are intending to launch the boat from the trailer, the wood cradle has a tendency to float the trailer.

You will most likely receive some better answers to your question if you give it some time.

An Ensign or a Typhoon is a lot of fun to sail.

Enjoy.

[Carl Thunberg]

but not sure if those are to be trusted.

I guess it all boils down to your skill as a builder. Build it right, and you can trust it.

[barfwinkle]

search this BB for an article in Good Old Boat on this subject. Its a good article.

Fair Winds

[Alan Stewart]

I actually hav a very well-built wooden cradle for a Typhoon sitting on a trailer that I would be happy to part with, but I don’t know your location - I’m on the East Coast...
I have converted over a dozen aluminum & galvanized powerboat trailers to carry full-keel sailboats such as Typhoons, Bulls Eyes, Goldeneyes, Rhodes 18’s, CD25Ds and others, it generally involves removing the existing bunks or roller systems, repositioning crossbeams and welding on 2” tubes to hold Brownell screwjacks as well as fabricating a combination mast support/winch stand/bow rest for the fwd end of the trailer.
I have entertained the thought of a trailer with hinged tubes that could be slid under a boat already sitting on stands without having to move them to get the trailer under the hull, but have yet to tackle that project; your idea of a dual-purpose trailer is an intriguing one and might include some of the aforementioned features, but would require a fair amount of trial & error no doubt to perfect the design.
One feature that could remain in place for both applications is the keel support - I use a 6-7’ length of either steel or aluminum 10” channel with bunk carpeting glued in place with 3M 5200. A pair is SS 3/8” carriage bolts secure the “tray” to the cross beams of the trailer. In virtually all keelboat trailers the keel pad supports the entire weight of the hull while the bunks or pads serve mainly to stabilize the hull and prevent it from tipping to eith side. Of paramount importance however are very secure (4 is adequate),attachment points for ratchet straps or lines. I use 1/2” eyebolts through the trailer frame and these are located so that the boat can be held back if the brakes are hit hard, as well as down in the rear to prevent bouncing, which can loosen or even break straps & lines! Always check tire lugs frequently on extended trips... Good luck with the build!

[Alan Stewart]

Regarding the location and positioning of the upright supports for either screwjacks or bunks for a Typhoon, the preferred distance laterally is approximately 48”between the bunks or screwjacks, and the height above the keel pad should be roughly 20-24” with some adjustability for fine tuning. The fore & aft distance between screwjacks needs to be roughly 68”, although there is flexibility there as well.
If using bunks, there are often 6 uprights with the middle ones somewhat lower (2-4”), to follow the contour of the hull at its “belly”. Both systems, bunks or screwjacks, allow for launching by ramp as well as by crane or travel lift. A trailer tongue extension of 8-10’ is very helpful on most ramps to facilitate launching without having to back the tow vehicle into the water.
Finally, screwjacks allow for complete access to the hull for bottompainting and cleaning by lowering one stand at a time, but remember to snug each one up against the hull again before towing and always tape the handles in place to prevent them from loosening due to vibrations underway!

[Dick Villamil]

I was able to convert a trailer for my Typhoon - I used planks first for the keel but they bent/warped so I replaced the plank with a channel iron then filled in the channel with pressure treated wood that had another piece attached to the top covering the channel iron. Has worked perfectly for the past 10 years. As for bunks - you should be able to fabricate curved bunks (with wedges at each end out of pt 2x4 wrapped with outdoor carpeting. I made two sets of bunks to match the curvature of the hull - one set forward and one aft. I also made aluminun bars bent up to guide the keel into the centerline (placed PVC pipe over the bars to prevent scraping the hull. The bunks were adjustable using slotted metal bars that were attached to the frame allowing them to be adjusted and bolted in place. The weight of the boat is carried by the channel iron whereas it is kept upright by the bunks. Easy to launch and recover from a ramp that has sufficiently deep water. If I can find a photo of it I will send a photo of it.