Suggestions for Bottom Preparation & Painting

[Chris Reinke]

Sorry to say - It is that time of year when I need to begin planning all the preparation work for getting the boat back in the water, but not able to enjoy the benefits of an evening sail.

Two years ago I had the bottom sanded and two coats of a "quality" bottom paint applied by the yard where I purchased the boat. When I pulled her this past season I found about 30% of the paint had peeled off. So now I am going to sand her down to the fiberglass and apply a new coating. My question is, what type of bottom paint to use? I have seen several suggestions for the ablative coatings with a different color primer coat. I am looking for some suggestions and would appreciate any comments on any past experiences, both good and bad with some of the new products on the market.

Thanks,
Chris



chris.reinke@tranamerica.com

[Dave B]

Sorry to say - It is that time of year when I need to begin planning all the preparation work for getting the boat back in the water, but not able to enjoy the benefits of an evening sail.

Two years ago I had the bottom sanded and two coats of a "quality" bottom paint applied by the yard where I purchased the boat. When I pulled her this past season I found about 30% of the paint had peeled off. So now I am going to sand her down to the fiberglass and apply a new coating. My question is, what type of bottom paint to use? I have seen several suggestions for the ablative coatings with a different color primer coat. I am looking for some suggestions and would appreciate any comments on any past experiences, both good and bad with some of the new products on the market.

Thanks,
Chris

Chris-

I took the bottom all the way down last season on my CD28. This was hard work since this had never been done and many layers of paint were in the bottom. I used a razor scraper when it was cold to chip off large amounts and a porter cable orbital sander (industrial) with vac. attachment to collect dust into shop vac. I then used the interlux coating ( I believe it was called 2000 or 2200)- this took 4 to 5 coats in a certain time period. This sealed the fiberglass to prevent water intrusion. I then used interlux micron csc ablative paint. This is a wonderful product- it sloughs away throughout the season, no more scraping or sanding ever- just wipe with a solvent when paint is getting thin and reapply. I used red as first coat then blue for topcoats. When paint is thin, red will show, time to repaint.

Dave



dave_lhs_bio@hotmail.com

[Neil Gordon]

I wouldn't use anything other than an ablative paint. I've used Micron CSC Extra and the boad comes out of the water absolutely clean. The suggestion is to put a base color that will show through subsequent layers when they get thin. Then you paint again. Three coats recommended to start, the base plus two more. My practice is to put a new coat on LIQUIDITY each spring. It doesn't take very long, keeps the waterline looking nice as least for a while and no worry that the bottom coat is getting thin as the season progresses.


Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167



neil@nrgordon.com

[bob loewenstein]

I wouldn't use anything other than an ablative paint. I've used Micron CSC Extra....

Speaking of CSC Extra, which I've been using, last year I heard Interlux was taking it off the market. I notice in the current West and BoatUS catalogs they no longer carry it, but in its place is something close (can't remember the name). They also continue to sell CSC.

Anyone know the full story??



rfl@yerkes.uchicago.edu

[Jerry J Commisso]

I just read an article in the March issue of Sailing. The article mentions the paint that took the place of CSC. The new name is MICRON EXTRA, it is multi season like CSC. It has a new formula called BIOLUX which is supposed to eliminate soft growth like slime and algae. They say it's 240 times more effective on algae than copper. Sounds like it's worth giving a try.

I wouldn't use anything other than an ablative paint. I've used Micron CSC Extra....

Speaking of CSC Extra, which I've been using, last year I heard Interlux was taking it off the market. I notice in the current West and BoatUS catalogs they no longer carry it, but in its place is something close (can't remember the name). They also continue to sell CSC.

Anyone know the full story??

liasboat@aol.com

[Petg Leous]

I wouldn't use anything other than an ablative paint. I've used Micron CSC Extra and the boad comes out of the water absolutely clean. The suggestion is to put a base color that will show through subsequent layers when they get thin. Then you paint again. Three coats recommended to start, the base plus two more. My practice is to put a new coat on LIQUIDITY each spring. It doesn't take very long, keeps the waterline looking nice as least for a while and no worry that the bottom coat is getting thin as the season progresses.


Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167

sailpablo@aol.com

[Peg L]

We spent about 100 "person" hours last year taking off about 35 old coats of cheap paint from our 1975 CD 25. We took her right down to the fibreglass using strippers first and finally good old fashioned sanding. We then applied 5 coats of Interlux barrier coat over a period of 48 hours. After that we sprayed 2 coats of VC 17. It's a very light teflon paint that dries in 10 minutes. Using a sprayer, one quart is enough for at least 1 coat on my 25.

We sail lake "eerie" (Erie) amd when we pulled her out this fall, the bottom was clean except for a little green scum which we power washed off very quickly. I don't know what your water conditions are where you sail but we have the battle of the zebra muscles going on here.

Incidentally, I think we got about an extra knot of speed out of "molasses". I attribute it to the VC 17. My husband thinks it's because we took off about 150 pounds of bottom weight. Could be a combination of both!



sailpablo@aol.com

[Lee H. Hodsdon]

For what it is worth, I recommend removing the old bottom paint down to the original gel coat, or if you are fortunate the original barrier coat. Take time to fair the hull where necessary, then apply "according to mfg. instructions" a barrier coat Interlux 2000 (if my memory serves me, use the good stuff with the micro plates) followed by a contrasting color coat of ablative bottom paint - CSC Extra, followed by two more coats of CSC Extra in your final color choice. The contrasting colors will show when it is time to repaint the surface.

I did this four seasons ago, and I can't say enough good about the results. If you are interested I can provide photos and a more detailed description of the process.

THINK SPRING!

Lee

P.S. I didn't take the time to read all of the posts, I am most likely repeating what someone has already said.



lhodsdon@nh.ultranet.com

[Don Carr]

I just read an article in the March issue of Sailing. The article mentions the paint that took the place of CSC. The new name is MICRON EXTRA, it is multi season like CSC. It has a new formula called BIOLUX which is supposed to eliminate soft growth like slime and algae. They say it's 240 times more effective on algae than copper. Sounds like it's worth giving a try.

And it is about $20 /gal more expensive too.



carrd48@netzero.com

[Richard Formica]

Sorry to say - It is that time of year when I need to begin planning all the preparation work for getting the boat back in the water, but not able to enjoy the benefits of an evening sail.

Two years ago I had the bottom sanded and two coats of a "quality" bottom paint applied by the yard where I purchased the boat. When I pulled her this past season I found about 30% of the paint had peeled off. So now I am going to sand her down to the fiberglass and apply a new coating. My question is, what type of bottom paint to use? I have seen several suggestions for the ablative coatings with a different color primer coat. I am looking for some suggestions and would appreciate any comments on any past experiences, both good and bad with some of the new products on the market.

Thanks,
Chris

Hi Chris,
I would echo what Lee Hudson said. I just finished the same task on the bottom of my boat. Boat U/S has a free Interlux barrier coat pamphlet they will send to you. If you follow the instruction it is straight forward. The only addition I would make is the following. The Interlux 3000/3001 is easier to use because a.) it can be used down to 32 degrees fahrenheit as opposed to 50 degrees for the 2000/2001 and b.) the maximal time between subsequent coats with out the need for re-sanding is much longer. This makes it easier to accomodate a work schedule and variable spring weather. Although it does not say it can be rolled on in the instruction, only sprayed, I called the Interlux technical assistance line and they said rolling was no problem. I found it to be very easy.
Rich

[Bill Goldsmith]

Chris:

At the risk of being repetitive........ I, too, took the bottom down to gelcoat (19 years of buildup), barrier coated (with West System) and repainted with one red, two blue coats of CSC extra. The boat came out of the Hudson river (not far from your location) squeaky clean last fall. After a light powerwashing, someone came over to me later that day and asked why I had painted my hull in the fall!!!!! It looked that clean.

Except for one scrape through to the red layer, the hull remains blue, although I probably will endorse Neil Gordon's approach and put one whole coat on before launching for good measure.

Bill Goldsmith
Second Chance

Sorry to say - It is that time of year when I need to begin planning all the preparation work for getting the boat back in the water, but not able to enjoy the benefits of an evening sail.

Two years ago I had the bottom sanded and two coats of a "quality" bottom paint applied by the yard where I purchased the boat. When I pulled her this past season I found about 30% of the paint had peeled off. So now I am going to sand her down to the fiberglass and apply a new coating. My question is, what type of bottom paint to use? I have seen several suggestions for the ablative coatings with a different color primer coat. I am looking for some suggestions and would appreciate any comments on any past experiences, both good and bad with some of the new products on the market.

Thanks,
Chris

goldy@bestweb.net

[Neil Gordon]

>>We sail lake "eerie" (Erie) amd when we pulled her out this fall, the bottom was clean except for a little green scum which we power washed off very quickly<<

We sail out of Boston. Salt water, and the critters would build up fast. The bottom comes out clean with Micron CSC Extra.

Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167



neil@nrgordon.com

[Neil Gordon]

>>The article mentions the paint that took the place of CSC. The new name is MICRON EXTRA, it is multi season like CSC. It has a new formula called BIOLUX which is supposed to eliminate soft growth like slime and algae.<<

Do they say whether it can be applied over CSC? I would suspect so.


Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167



neil@nrgordon.com

[Peg L]

Sorry to say - It is that time of year when I need to begin planning all the preparation work for getting the boat back in the water, but not able to enjoy the benefits of an evening sail.

Two years ago I had the bottom sanded and two coats of a "quality" bottom paint applied by the yard where I purchased the boat. When I pulled her this past season I found about 30% of the paint had peeled off. So now I am going to sand her down to the fiberglass and apply a new coating. My question is, what type of bottom paint to use? I have seen several suggestions for the ablative coatings with a different color primer coat. I am looking for some suggestions and would appreciate any comments on any past experiences, both good and bad with some of the new products on the market.

Thanks,
Chris

Chris,
By the way, if you do decide to start over and apply barrier coat, I strongly suggest you find a very good mask - the fumes are the most toxic I've ever been around. Also, plan two days of good weather and nothing else to day because there is a 3 to 12 hour window for applying each coat. We put 3 coats on the first day over a 10 hour period, and 2 coats the next day. We rolled the Interlux on with a paintroller. It certainly uses more paint but is an adequate application method. Good luck,
Peg



sailpablo@aol.com

[Bob Luby]

Suggestion- Don't sand - use Peel Away Safety Strip. West Marine has a slightly cheaper version.

Glop it on - like covering a bagel with whipped cream cheese.
Apply the Barrier sheet to retard eveperation.
Wait 24 hrs.
What doesn't come off when you remove the paper can be scraped off

Providing you don't leave it on forever, it won't damage the gel coat.
unlike sanding. Don't let it dry, though, because it will be hard to remove.

Expensive, but it definitely saves time and elbow grease.



Rluby@aol.com