Ground fault interrupter shore power cord

[M. R. Bober]

Does anyone know a source for a 125V 30A source power cord? Seems like a useful item, but I can't seem to find one.

Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster, (Where finding fault can be a good thing.) VA

[tartansailor]

Yes, I have one, bought the plug and wire separately at an electrical supply house and
made it up myself.
richard

[Jim Walsh]

Yes, I have one, bought the plug and wire separately at an electrical supply house and
made it up myself.
richard

A GFI shore power plug?

[M. R. Bober]

Yes, I have one, bought the plug and wire separately at an electrical supply house and
made it up myself.
richard

A GFI shore power plug?

If your CD is wired as mine, each receptacle is cabled as a "home run" rather than being daisy chained. Which means that there is no receptacle downstream from any other. So the choice is install 4 GFICs or go without ground fault protection. I am not aware of a GFIC protected circuit breaker that would fit the CD electrical panel so a protected shore power cord seems to be a natural solution.

Don't get me started on CD's electrical systems. Let's just say that they are easy to improve.

Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster, (Where through no fault of our own, we thrive.) VA

[Jim Davis]

Something tells me it would be worthwhile simply installing GFCIs at each outlet. 30 Amp adapters aren't inexpensive.

http://www.zoro.com/value-brand-line-co ... lsrc=aw.ds

[tjr818]

...Don't get me started on CD's electrical systems. Let's just say that they are easy to improve.
Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster, (Where through no fault of our own, we thrive.) VA

I was able to install a ELCI breaker in the original panel. I understand that those are now required in new boats. But then I also installed a 20 amp GFIC outlet in the first outlet in the only circuit we have onboard (three outlets).

[tartansailor]

Yes, I have one, bought the plug and wire separately at an electrical supply house and
made it up myself.
richard

A GFI shore power plug?

A GFI is in the receptical, not the plug.
If I misunderstood Mitchell's original question, My regrets, then the solution would be to add GFIs' to the 120 panel box inside the boat, as tjr suggested.
richard

[bottomscraper]

Something like this?

http://www.nssltd.com/products.asp

[Astronomertoo]

Guys, this is a significant safety issue which can kill you if not meeting code. Please seek the advise of a professional marine electrician, or the dock master of your marina for the local rules.

A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) is uses an electronically controlled relay to break the power to a load if the circuit detects a minor current flow between a load and the ground, typically longer than 3 cycles of the 60 hz current being measured at the source breaker. It is installed either in the source AC breaker, or in a device like a protected 120 Vac outlet, ie., at the kitchen or bathroom where electrocution is most likely. It is not normally installed at every receptacle but you may do so. It is typically used to protect several downstream receptacles, like the kitchen protecting the outside patio outlets.
Normally, I would expect to see the Marine GFCI installed at the main breaker on the shore, or after the first big breaker downstream, on the boat. It will do less good if the power is already on the boat before being monitored for a problem.
Regardless, there are several issues here, including why put 30 amps unprotected AC onto a boat, where the first chance of grounding and electrocution may be in the cable draped (or dropped with energize power) into the water, or with a erroneously grounded or partially shorted connection inside the boat which can electrocute a person. The bigger dangers are stray grounding of the AC Hot on a metal part of the boat, which can immobilize and kill a swimmer near the boat in the water, or touching metal on the boat. This is very common. And worse yet, if the GFCI is tripping on a boat, too often the owner disconnects of disables teh GFCI thinking it is bad. A GFCI is like a smoke detector--if it alarms or trips, assume it is a real problem first before ignoring it.
Then you can stick around to sail longer.

[bottomscraper]

why put 30 amps unprotected AC onto a boat

A 30 amp power cord is probably the most common shore power connection for a boat. 30 amps may seem like overkill but a water heater typically draws 12-13 amps all by itself. Now add in a battery charger and maybe refrigeration... Typically on the boat the 30 amp shore power connection feeds an AC main breaker which then feeds smaller breakers for things like water heaters, refrigeration and general purpose outlets.

Most docks and boatyards have 30 amp receptacles, many do already have GFCI but not all of them. Mitch wanting to add GFCI protection is a good thing!

[Astronomertoo]

why put 30 amps unprotected AC onto a boat

A 30 amp power cord is probably the most common shore power connection for a boat. 30 amps may seem like overkill but a water heater typically draws 12-13 amps all by itself. Now add in a battery charger and maybe refrigeration... Typically on the boat the 30 amp shore power connection feeds an AC main breaker which then feeds smaller breakers for things like water heaters, refrigeration and general purpose outlets.

Most docks and boatyards have 30 amp receptacles, many do already have GFCI but not all of them. Mitch wanting to add GFCI protection is a good thing!

-----------
Correct, similar to RV power cords, but typically with different standards for the plug and receptacle patterns. RV shore power panels do not provide GFCI breaker protection on the 30 amp or 50 amp cable connectors but can and often do provide GFCI protection for the 120 Vac 20 amp outlets at the panel due it it often being in close proximity to the water hose connection, thus shock hazzard. RVs use separate internal 15 and 20 amp GFCI protection for outlets installed in dangerous locations where users may contect water or plumbing, inside ad outside.

For marine applications, if there is no (to my knowledge) protective GFCI built into the shore power panel, you can install one in the boat at the main switch panel, such that the output from that GFCI will protect AC power connections from that device downstream, as long as you do not intend to draw more amperage on that leg than the GFCI is designed to feed. If you need more power you can add another GFCI for additional loads. If wiring your own GFCI please verify with a local marine electrician regarding local codes for grounding convention in your area, as this is a significant safety issue. If your boat is wired incorectly it can cause at minimum, rapid electrolysis of underwater metals on your boat, and worst case, death of someone in the water near your boat. Please be safe.
BTW, anyone wishing to research this may google the latest edition (updated every couple of years) of the National Electric Code (NEC) and search for marine shore power GFCI requirements. And no, I am not current on anything revised in the past 2 years.
Bob C
Moon Shine

[M. R. Bober]

Just for the record, my home dock's electrical circuit is GFIC protected. However when traveling who knows what's available. There is no room on STARVIEW's panel for a GFIC breaker so the prospect of a device on the shore power cord seemed to be a good idea.

The existing receptacles are in cramped spaces and have shallow boxes. Again the protected power cord seemed to be ideal especially in the face of a major electrical project.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster, (Where you can never be too careful when mixing electricity and seawater.)

[M. R. Bober]

When was the last time you burnished the blades of your shore power cord? Oxidation and other crud is resistance which means heat.

Cleaning those contacts is a simple task that should take about 5 minutes. Just don't remove too much metal.

Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster, (Where work is always waiting for the idle sailor.) VA