rigging recommendations

[Megunticook]

I'm replacing all of my standing rigging. A neighbor recommended a local rigger, Loric Weymouth, in Rockland. Anybody have any dealings with him?

I'm open to any suggestions about what materials or specific products are best. Weymouth gave me a quote, included Criterion 316T wire, Alexander Roberts 316T aircraft forks, and Hayn open body turnbuckles. Is that quality stuff?

Any tips or recommendations welcome. Definitely want to do this right, maintain everything diligently, and not have to worry about it for many years to come. I'm thinking the existing rigging may be original (1985) but not sure.

Thanks.

[Jeff D]

I had good luck with Rigging Only in Fairhaven, MA. They replaced what I believed to be the original standing rigging on my Ty DS in two days for less than the cost of the parts from Defender. I think that many others on the board have had similar experiences. They used my existing rigging as patterns for the new. I don't know where you are located, but you could either drop it off or send by UPS.

[Klem]

Hi Megunticook,

It really depends on how much work you want to do yourself and whether your mast is currently stepped. For a boat your size, you should definitely do it mast down. If you are willing to take off the old rigging, package it up and ship it off to Rigging Only, it will probably be relatively inexpensive. However, if you don't want to do this yourself or you feel that all of the tangs and chainplates should be inspected (they should be but a knowledgeable owner can do this themselves), then hiring a local rigger is the way to go. I have never heard of Loric Weymouth so I can't comment on his services.

Swaging ends onto wire is something that you really need to let a pro with the right machine do, it is not something for even the most skilled diy'ers because it requires special equipment. There are 2 workarounds if you are determined which are mechanical terminals such as stalock but these are expensive and synthetic rigging such as Dynex Dux for people who embrace the latest technological trends. We have done a hybrid approach and had Rigging Only make up slightly long wires with a swaged fitting on one end and then we put a Stalock on the deck end as they are better for corrosion.

[Jim Walsh]

Don't discount the "fun" factor of doing it yourself. During the winter of 2010 I replaced all my standing rigging. I bought the wire and StaLoc fittings from Defender. I stripped all the standing rigging from the mast, measured the new wire, and assembled the StaLoc's. I reused all of my bronze turnbuckle barrels since they were in perfect shape. I enjoyed the whole process and wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

[Megunticook]

I stripped the mast of everything and am actually replacing it with a new one from Dwyer.

My plan was to drop the old rigging off at Weymouth's shop and then pick it up when it's ready. I should be able to prep the new mast myself.

Just thought I'd check in here before committing.

[Jeff D]

Can I ask what happened to the old mast?

[Megunticook]

It broke--made a rookie error on my first mast unstepping last fall. Fortunately we were in a safe place ashore, nobody was hurt, and nothing except the mast was damaged. Not a pleasant experience, very humbling. It was an important lesson for me.

[Jeff D]

glad to hear that everyone and everything else is ok

[Uffda]

I know Loric ( aka Larry ) and he knows his stuff. He worked at Lyman-Morse and other sailing outfits before going out on his own.

[Megunticook]

I know Loric ( aka Larry ) and he knows his stuff. He worked at Lyman-Morse and other sailing outfits before going out on his own.

Thanks, that was the vote of confidence I was looking for. I'm going to drop off my old standing rigging with him and he'll make up some new rigging for me. Will report back on my experience.

I'm sure I'll have some questions when I start prepping the new mast--I'm already debating whether to install conduit for the wiring or just figure out another solution to prevent the wires from slapping around inside there.

Probably should start a new thread for that. Maybe I'll photograph the work in stages and start a thread in the projects forum.

Here in Maine winter is finally starting to ease up on us...actually have a few bare spots in the yard, though 90% of the ground is still covered.

[Maine Moke]

I'm sure I'll have some questions when I start prepping the new mast--I'm already debating whether to install conduit for the wiring or just figure out another solution to prevent the wires from slapping around inside there.

Probably should start a new thread for that. Maybe I'll photograph the work in stages and start a thread in the projects forum.

Here in Maine winter is finally starting to ease up on us...actually have a few bare spots in the yard, though 90% of the ground is still covered.

I have a CD36 with the problem of no conduit in the mast for the wiring and I am not having much luck finding a solution. What did you do? Thanks.

David

[tjr818]

One solution has been to bundle the wires with wire ties and leave the tails of the ties on. That will keep the wires from banging around, but I can not imagine trying to later have to pull just one wire.
We ended up using sections of swimming pool noodles...so far, so good. I do think that it was only our radio antenna wire that was causing the problem maybe it could be isolated?

[Ron M.]

another solution for the lack of conduit in the mast is styrofoam pipe insulation.

[Maine Moke]

Thanks for the ideas. Not sure what we will be doing. More anxious right now to get the mast stepped so we can go sailing!!

[K Chiswell]

The mast on my 330 did not have a conduit but it had a track for sail slugs on the inside. I just copied what was there and bundled my wires together with a slug ever 4 to 5 feet. It's only been 2 years but It certainly seems fine.