Seeking advice about toe rail repair on CD Typhoon

[JulieC]

I've got a split toe rail on my new (to me) Ty and need some perspective on how to think about it:
1. Is this something I should be concerned with fixing right away? Does it pose any risk in terms of letting water into the hull?
2. What are the possible strategies for repair?
3. When it comes to refinishing the toerail/rubrail, should these be taken off the boat, or can this job be done well without removing them?

Thanks in advance for your advice,
Julie

[John #126]

That looks like a scarf joint that has opened up a bit. It's an angled joint between two pieces of teak and is the way the toe rails were installed. There may be a similar joint on the starboard side. There should be no issue with water intrusion into the hull.

Given all the screws and bungs in the photo, it looks like a PO attempted to realign the joint. It would be awkward to try to close the joint because you don't have a good way to clamp it vertically and you don't have much leverage horizontally. You could try putting some clamps on either side, with wood blocks to protect the teak, to see if you can move it back in alignment. Unless it's loose, it's more of a cosmetic issue. One option would be to fill the gaps as best you can with epoxy thickened with teak sawdust, then sand it flush on either side. You could also drill out one of the wood plugs and back out the screw to see if the screw is bent.

It's a big PITA to remove and replace the toe rails unless you really need to. Better to sand and refinish on the boat.

There is a good article on working with teak toe rails and rub rails in the current issue of SAIL magazine.

I follow the 'five foot rule' on my brightwork. If it looks OK from five feet away and it doesn't create a hazard for snagging people or sheets, I leave it alone.

John

[Skeep]

I agree partly with John, and partly dissent. So for Julie, I think it's fair to provide some more commentary on the toerail dilemma. I too have some irregularities with a toe rail.

1. I'm humored by the 5 foot rule, and see John's point. However, my experience so far with Baggy Wrinkles is that at my age (61.11) I just can't see very well from 5 feet away, so I observe closer with my glasses.

2. Dissent with issue on leakage. My experience is that these bung holes ( sounds like Beavis and Butthead ) are little mischievious buggers and with age, can permit water to ingress, then water, on its own, travels down the screw or the joint and finds its way into the underneath area of the boat. This accounts on my vessel for some bit of water after a hard sail with water over the rails.

3. Agree with John that expoxy mixture is good for the rail and have used a combination of reputting screws, along with an expoxy caulking, and some realignment with C clamps and metal supports to force the curvature back to the rail. In an observation I noted the potential for leakage here: http://baggywrinkles.blogspot.com/2013_ ... chive.html

OK so check out this topic I inserted today on my blog. I thought I had already taken the topic up but no. Here are several photos and a description of how I went about a fix: ( I updated my blog at this point with a photo taken just a couple of days ago of the repaired toe-rail while under sail--if you want to see what it looks like and it's durability ! )

http://baggywrinkles.blogspot.com/

[Bristol14]

I had a mean encounter with a dock this summer, rub rail got caught under the dock on a bumpy day. The fix should be easy based on what I can see (rub rail and toe rails are separate pieces, the rub rail is held on by SS screws and covered with plugs). I've included a picture so you can see what the construction looks like. Sailed for 2 months after the damage and never had any water intrusion.

Paul

[John #126]

For your reading enjoyment, here are photos and a description of the installation of new toe rails by a professional who is restoring a Sea Sprite 23, another fine Alberg design.
http://www.lackeysailing.com/mslynneg/o ... 102714.htm
Not for the faint of heart.
John

[Skeep]

John, thanks, that is an excellent link.

[Paul D.]

I're repaired toerails on our former boat, Typhoon Hornet, (See Good Old Boat Magazine article Typhoon of a Refit from 2000). On Femme I got lucky and let my friend, feeling guilty from grazing the Windigo Dock at Isle Royale in a blow, fix a section on Femme.

From the pictures you sent I think I would try first to pull the bungs and screws at the joint, clean the joint as best as possible and re glue, maybe with a clamp using the rub rail below and a heavy sand bag or heavy weight on deck with a lever over the top. With teak, it is important to sand right before gluing. I'd use either epoxy or my brother recommends Titebond III. Then reglue the bungs with a little varnish, sand down and refinish.

If this doesn't work the right way to fix is to to pull the rail off and properly re glue with no bend. Since it looks like a PO tried to screw this together already that may be the way to go, possibly even scarfing in a new piece in that area.

Good luck. This looks mostly cosmetic but eventually it will break further for sure so it is good to deal with it now.