Painting Questions

[bpiperno]

Hello everybody.
I have a CD 25 D. I would like to pain the interior of the boat. My CD has like I assume all of them this "plastic shinny surface" next to the ice box area and on the floor.
As you can probably see from the type of questions I have never done this before. Not sure if is very hard but I would like to try.
I read Don Casey's book but I got more confused.
I was wonder what is the best and easiest way to pain this areas? Do I need to sand ? what type of paint?.
I am looking for step by step recommendations since I have never done it.
Is there a link I can look at?
I am also looking to see if I can do the awlgrip only in the cockpit area. Again I will be happy to hear any advise.

Thanks
Ben

[Markst95]

Hi Ben- The main things to remember with painting are 1. to make sure the surface is clean of waxes, dirt, oil ect. and 2 to roughen up the surface, paint needs something to "grip" onto(100 grit sandpaper is a good choice). For inside paint I've had good luck with marine enamel, you could use any of the one part Polyurethane paints by Interlux or Petit. If you want to save some money Rustoleum Marine topside is a nice paint and sells for about $15/qt . I just painted a canoe hull this spring with it and it has held up well. Using a primer coat is a good idea if the areas have been repaired or are a darker color than you will be using. You mention using awlgrip for the cockpit, is the rest of the boat painted with it? Its a good tough paint but can be difficult for a typical boat owner to get good results. I use the one part polys, they don't last as long but can be touched up easily.

[jbenagh]

I've had good results with Interlux Brightside polyurethane and enamel. Their instructions (you can download them from their website) are very thorough and are applicable to most types of paint. I painted the main salon of my CD25 with white Interlux Brightsides, following their prepping, priming and painting instructions. The only thing I would say is that you don't need to sand the primer as aggressively as they recommend if the surface is pretty smooth; I ended up with nearly no primer when I started the finish coat which meant that I needed three topcoats to get a uniform finish instead of the two they recommended.

Inside the cabin the choice of paint is less critical but be aware that you get a lot of sun on certain places near the companionway which can cause fading of some interior paints (but probably not the Interlux products or the Rustoleum ones).

Jeff

[bpiperno]

Thanks for the response
I will research your info and go for it
I really appreciate it
Ben

[bpiperno]

I forgot to clarify that what I meant by awlgrip is the non skid area
Welcome further advise
Thanks again
Ben

[House]

Ben,

My wife and I painted the interior of our CD-28 a few years ago with Rustoleum (Color: "Oyster White;" brush-on). The interior wasn't damaged or in bad condition, it just looked a little dingy. What a difference the new paint made; the interior looks almost brand new again. We did not sand or "prep" the surface with anything other than soap and water. One coat covered pretty well, but we went ahead and put on another coat a day or so after the first coat dried. The paint's held up well and is easy to clean. This is one of those straightforward DIY jobs that really makes a difference down below. Good luck!

Richard

[barfwinkle]

Good Morning Ben

I just completed painting the head on a 25D and next week will finish the main salon. I used Petite EZCabin and other than all the "twist and turns and angles" which required taping, it was a simple straight forward process.

The EZCabin requires two coats, the first being the primer. What a difference.

Good luck and Fair Winds.