Lifeline replacement

[Linda]

It is time to replace the lifelines on my CD30. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Many thanks to everyone for their input. I have ordered new lifelines from Rigging Only. They should be here next week.

[Maine_Buzzard]

Dyneema is superb. I replaced mine using splices and eyes.

You can tension it with a lashing rather than a turnbuckle, and while I have not held on while dragging in the water, I am confident it is sufficiently strong and durable.

I made 3/4 high stanchions for the forward bases, and secured to the second ones, much like a daysailer. I like the arrangement for casual sailing, but will go back to the conventional arrangement when we cruise in August.

[Jim Walsh]

Uncoated 1 X 19. Never have to worry what's going on under that coating again. It's mandatory equipment in most racing organizations and seen more frequently on new yachts for cruising or racing. I just replaced my 30 year old coated lifelines

[jbenagh]

Like Jim, I replaced mine with 1x19 uncoated wire last season. I bought mine from Rigging Only. I sent them the old ones and got back new ones about a week later.

[bottomscraper]

Went to bare 1x19 about 7 years ago. No more rust. It's a good thing. We also used Rigging Only. Depending on the size of the holes in your stanchions you may be able to go to a larger size wire when using bare 1x19. On our CD36 the limiting factor was the size of the swage. We used 1/4" wire for the upper wire and a smaller size (maybe 1/8, not 100% sure) for the lower line.

http://www.riggingonly.com/

[gates_cliff]

Been considering replacing mine with Dyneema, I like the idea. Both sides have slack in them and there's no more room on the turn buckles to tighten them up . I like the idea.

Not exactly on target here, but related. For some reason I recenlty checked all my stancions. Found that most of the set screws and the self tapping screws were loose and in one case missing alltogether, the stanchion lifted right out of the base. Glad I was at the dock when I found that. So, bought some stainless steel screws of the same size and replaced them all. However, on some of the bases the screw, screwed in but didn't seem to set, as in the screw would continue to turn. It did seem to have taken a bight though since it wouldn't just pull out as if the threads were stripped.

Wondering if I ought to go a size bigger or get someone to tap the basee and stanhcion so as to be able to use a machine screw.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

[Russell]

Been considering replacing mine with Dyneema, I like the idea. Both sides have slack in them and there's no more room on the turn buckles to tighten them up . I like the idea.

Not exactly on target here, but related. For some reason I recenlty checked all my stancions. Found that most of the set screws and the self tapping screws were loose and in one case missing alltogether, the stanchion lifted right out of the base. Glad I was at the dock when I found that. So, bought some stainless steel screws of the same size and replaced them all. However, on some of the bases the screw, screwed in but didn't seem to set, as in the screw would continue to turn. It did seem to have taken a bight though since it wouldn't just pull out as if the threads were stripped.

Wondering if I ought to go a size bigger or get someone to tap the basee and stanhcion so as to be able to use a machine screw.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

I had the same problem, though mine were originally machine screws, some previous owner had tried to replace some missing ones with self tapping screws and buggered up the threading and half of them were falling out. I drilled and retapped them a size bigger and put new machine screws in.

As for lifelines, I agree on the bare wire, dyneema is a valid choice as well. Just don't get coated wire, the world has moved on to better things and left coated wire in the past where it belongs.

[Maine_Buzzard]

For the stripped screw holes, a filler block of delrin, tapped full length will provide enough support.

One could also add a stainless insert T nut if needed. Photos soon.

[gates_cliff]

Been considering replacing mine with Dyneema, I like the idea. Both sides have slack in them and there's no more room on the turn buckles to tighten them up . I like the idea.

Not exactly on target here, but related. For some reason I recenlty checked all my stancions. Found that most of the set screws and the self tapping screws were loose and in one case missing alltogether, the stanchion lifted right out of the base. Glad I was at the dock when I found that. So, bought some stainless steel screws of the same size and replaced them all. However, on some of the bases the screw, screwed in but didn't seem to set, as in the screw would continue to turn. It did seem to have taken a bight though since it wouldn't just pull out as if the threads were stripped.

Wondering if I ought to go a size bigger or get someone to tap the basee and stanhcion so as to be able to use a machine screw.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

I had the same problem, though mine were originally machine screws, some previous owner had tried to replace some missing ones with self tapping screws and buggered up the threading and half of them were falling out. I drilled and retapped them a size bigger and put new machine screws in.

As for lifelines, I agree on the bare wire, dyneema is a valid choice as well. Just don't get coated wire, the world has moved on to better things and left coated wire in the past where it belongs.

Wouldn't you have to remove the stanchion bases to drill and tap them?

[Russell]

Been considering replacing mine with Dyneema, I like the idea. Both sides have slack in them and there's no more room on the turn buckles to tighten them up . I like the idea.

Not exactly on target here, but related. For some reason I recenlty checked all my stancions. Found that most of the set screws and the self tapping screws were loose and in one case missing alltogether, the stanchion lifted right out of the base. Glad I was at the dock when I found that. So, bought some stainless steel screws of the same size and replaced them all. However, on some of the bases the screw, screwed in but didn't seem to set, as in the screw would continue to turn. It did seem to have taken a bight though since it wouldn't just pull out as if the threads were stripped.

Wondering if I ought to go a size bigger or get someone to tap the basee and stanhcion so as to be able to use a machine screw.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

I had the same problem, though mine were originally machine screws, some previous owner had tried to replace some missing ones with self tapping screws and buggered up the threading and half of them were falling out. I drilled and retapped them a size bigger and put new machine screws in.

As for lifelines, I agree on the bare wire, dyneema is a valid choice as well. Just don't get coated wire, the world has moved on to better things and left coated wire in the past where it belongs.

Wouldn't you have to remove the stanchion bases to drill and tap them?

The stanchion bases don't need to be tapped, the stanchions themselves do. You may have to drill out the hole in the base slightly larger to accommodate the larger machine screw, but it does not need to take the thread, the stanchion itself needs the thread.

However, the allen head set screw that is used to stop wobble, that requires the base to be tapped. But the screw that actually holds the stanchion from being pulled out, just tap the stanchion itself.

[Oswego John]

You can tap threads in tight quarters if you use a ratchet tap wrench instead of a traditional sliding bar tap wrench.

Good luck,
O J

[sharkbait]

You can also use a standard socket wrench with an extension and a 8 point socket to drive the tap.

[Jim Cornwell]

Another vote for uncoated stainless wire and for Rigging Only. I had a second "gate" made opposite the mast, p & s, so the lifelines could be quickly dropped out of the way if ever an MOB (or a dinghy) needed to be hoisted aboard. Just an additional pelican hook and eye - cheap insurance. Jim

[Steve Laume]

Has anyone ever just through bolted the stanchion bases?

I do need to redo my life lines, Steve.

[moctrams]

All of my stanchions are bolted to the deck.