I'm replacing my standing rigging on my CD22, but I can't figure out how to get the headstay out of the furler. It's a harken furler, and the fittings on the ends are larger than the extrusion, so it seems I can only get it out by cutting it. Do you generally take the entire furler apart to replace a headstay, or is there an easier way? Maybe cut off a terminal, then feed through an unterminated stay, and attach a norselok or something like that? Ideas please!
Thanks, Nate
replacing headstay inside furler
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Re: replacing headstay inside furler
You have it exactly right. Cut the the stay put the new one in without the terminal then replace the terminal.
I did this two years ago on our Ty.
Regards,
Randy
I did this two years ago on our Ty.
Regards,
Randy
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Re: replacing headstay inside furler
Taking the headstay foils apart is not impossible....
Make a wood clamping block from a few 2*4s, notched to hold the foil securely.
Mark any foils that are less than full length. Bottom and the very top ones.
Heat is needed- a propane torch will break the red locktite loose.
Take the stainless feeder block off and clamp the foil above it to something secure with the blocks. (Drum's off, right?) Heat the area around the screws and take them out. Be patient.
When all 4 screws are out from a joint, heat the foil 2" from the end, and wiggle, yank, and reheat until it comes apart. A wedge will fall out. Repeat to remove the coupler from the other foil.
Rinse and repeat for the next section up.
The rigger will need the connectors to make the new headstay. Easier to roll it up and take the whole thing.
Make a wood clamping block from a few 2*4s, notched to hold the foil securely.
Mark any foils that are less than full length. Bottom and the very top ones.
Heat is needed- a propane torch will break the red locktite loose.
Take the stainless feeder block off and clamp the foil above it to something secure with the blocks. (Drum's off, right?) Heat the area around the screws and take them out. Be patient.
When all 4 screws are out from a joint, heat the foil 2" from the end, and wiggle, yank, and reheat until it comes apart. A wedge will fall out. Repeat to remove the coupler from the other foil.
Rinse and repeat for the next section up.
The rigger will need the connectors to make the new headstay. Easier to roll it up and take the whole thing.
- Steve Laume
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Re: replacing headstay inside furler
I did this job on Raven a few years ago.
I tied the foil to the mast and used Randy's method. It was a very simple job. This is how Rigging Only suggested it to be done and it worked out well, Steve.
I tied the foil to the mast and used Randy's method. It was a very simple job. This is how Rigging Only suggested it to be done and it worked out well, Steve.
- tjr818
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Re: replacing headstay inside furler
I have a similar set up, a Harken MK II, and I want to check the engagement of the turnbuckle (?) screw threads at the lower end. I can't get the torque tube to come loose. Any suggestions?
Tim
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
- Steve Laume
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Re: replacing headstay inside furler
Check for left handed threads. I am not sure about this but seem to have some vague memory.
The usual advise for PB Blaster would be in order as well.
I did have one problem with my furler after doing this work. I managed to insert the foil just a tiny bit too deep. It seemed to work fine until I sailed the hell out of the boat and then it jammed up at a bad time.
I went to the Harken site and discovered the problem. They have very good trouble shooting info and general instructions, Steve.
The usual advise for PB Blaster would be in order as well.
I did have one problem with my furler after doing this work. I managed to insert the foil just a tiny bit too deep. It seemed to work fine until I sailed the hell out of the boat and then it jammed up at a bad time.
I went to the Harken site and discovered the problem. They have very good trouble shooting info and general instructions, Steve.