CD-10 original "SPOON OARS:" Does anybody have images?

[GPWINSTON]

Hi. I just got a CD-10 that has some clunky, new straight oars, instead of the originals. I'd like to replace them with something that's as close to the originals as possible. Does anybody have any photos or information on the original Cape Dory-supplied oars that came with these boats when they were new? Any information would be a great help!

[Dick Kobayashi]

Go to Shaw and Tenney in Maine - They are experts. They will ask you the width which changed in the production run. You will need either 7 or 7.5 foot oars

[Steve Laume]

I will second Dick's advice. These oars are the best you will find and are an absolute joy to use.

http://www.shawandtenney.com/wooden-rowing-oars.htm

Happy rowing, Steve.

[GPWINSTON]

Thanks, both of you... S&T have a beautiful website with lots of choices. Do you happen to know if S&T were the suppliers of the original oars supplied by Cape Dory? -- as long as I'll be spending that much money, I might as well try to be as authentic as possible!

[Dick Kobayashi]

No Clue

[Dan Kretzer]

Just guessing, that although you see mention of spoon oars in the literature it could have been at the discretion of the selling dealer and how much the boat sold for.

I also agree on the choice of Shaw & Tenney. I have a pair that I row my Sumpwams Skiff with. (14' Whitehall design) Delightful!

Barkley Sound Oar and Paddle might be worth a look too. Prices look good but then there's some importation fee in addition to shipping.

[wsonntag]

I just bought new oars for my restored (still a work in progress) Cape Dory 10. I looked a Shaw and Tenney, oh my, just how much are you willing to pay for a set of oars? They are wear items you know, they simply will get beat up over time. So I went looking for a more reasonably priced alternative and found Sawyer Paddles and Oars, who serve a bit less snooty crowd than us yachtsmen, the kayak and paddle board crew. I bought their 7ft utility oars for just over $60 per oar, had their very nice rope seizing applied too. They are great lightweight oars and work absolutely perfectly with the CD10. Authenticity, not sure, utility yes! Here the Sawyer site URL and a photo of the relaunched dinghy with the oars aboard.

http://www.paddlesandoars.com/

Bill Sonntag

[Steve Laume]

If you love to row then get the best oars you can. The best, here will be well shaped, strong and as light as possible. The flex and grip are also a big part of what will make them feel comfortable. If you are going to knock them around and push off rocks, then get a pair of ash oars. If rowing is your primary concern and you are willing to take care of them, then spend the money on the S&Ts. If you take care of them, they will last a couple of life times and be a joy to use.

The oars really are half of the boat. It would be like having a nice Cape Dory sailboat but blown out sails. It just isn't going to go as well and will not be as much fun. How about a really nice road bike with some old clunky steel wheels. Or a great pair of skis with some old sloppy boots. You get the idea, Steve.

[tjr818]

If you have not seen these clips of a S&T paddle being made, I think you will enjoy these and understand why they cost so much.
I am guessing that OSHA has not seen the first three clips

http://www.shawandtenney.com/blog/makin ... noe-paddle

[Steve Laume]

This post is a great reminder that now is the time to maintain your beautiful wooden oars no matter who made them.

Several coats of varnish on the blades and shaft will go a long way in keeping them nice. I never varnish the grips but you can rub on some bees wax to improve the grip. Add a bit of neadsfoot oil to the leathers and you are good to go.

If you do decide to go with some more reasonably priced and somewhat more durable ash oars you can also work them a bit to reduce the weight and improve the feel of them. You can take off a good bit of material with a sharp block plane and still have a very durable oar.

If you really want to use the things to fend off of rocks or pole the boat around, you can add tip protection. This was traditionally done with copper. Glass and epoxy is also pretty effective and will not change the look of the oar. West's new G-flex is supposed to be very good for this application if you want something a bit more durable than glass fiber.

Rowing is great fun and even more so with nice oars, Steve.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Rowing is great fun and even more so with nice oars, Steve.

I've been in and out of sick bay off and on for a few weeks/months. Today I was at the sailing club and, instead of first doing some maintenance work on S/V Bali Ha'i, I decided to go rowing around the mooring field. The weather was warm and there was almost zero wind.

As Steve said "rowing is great fun" regardless of the boat or oars. I was in one of the club's "squared off" wooden dinks with old, heavy oars. It rows like a tank. No matter. It was great to be out in fresh air, sun and getting some much needed exercise. I also rowed past some truly beautiful sailboats - one a Cape Dory I also saw two dinks (one a RIB; one a Walker Bay 8) motoring from their sailboats to a local dinghy dock. VERY LOUD Not nice; not pleasant.

I did eventually perform all of the maintenance tasks I had on my "To Do" list. I was concerned about the Yanmar 1GM since she had not been active for more than one month. To my moderate surprise, she came to life on the very first try and putt putt putted along for a good hour to recharge the batteries. The one lung Yanmar 1GM is truly a gem - loud, yes ; but a gem.

[Dick Villamil]

Remember that when selecting oars to get an idea of the length so that the oars do not rub on the gunwales - I have a nice old set of 6-sided spruce oars - very light and with large flat blades. I think they are 7.5 feet. I let the grandkids use the older 7 foot oars but not the spruce ones. After they use them I can see where the oar contacts the varnished gunwales - OK because it can always be re-varnished and the goal is to get the kids into the boats! Using leathers on the oars would prevent that. I really love the way the CD10 rows - straight and true and relatively easy. I just have to make a centerboard trunk plug to prevent the waves from sloshing into the boat when I have two people in the boat and I go too fast!

[wsonntag]

I'm ready to take my CD 10 out for a row now! Here's a photo, during restoration, season before last, mast step not installed, centerboard line cleat not in place. Also includes my very declasse, Sawyer utility oars that row very nicely. She will be rigged for sailing this season.