I am in the process of collecting all of the necessary hardware to run my halyards to the base of the mast, around the the sliding hatch, and aft to a pair of winches and cleats. I have been informed that using aluminum back-up plates under the hardware is imperative to distribute the load over a wider surface. I had a rigger look at performing the job, and he said that because of the void between the hull liner and the cabin top, it will be necessary to first cut the cabin liner (using a hole saw) then thru-bolt the hardware thru the back-up plates up next to the cabin top. Then if I wanted to finish off the inside of the cabin, install slightly larger teak wood trim pads over the "new" holes in the cabin liner. Has anyone here ever thru-bolted hardware thru the cabin top, and is this installation method the same that you used? My bottom line is that the installation must look neat and clean from inside the cabin. (The installation must be strong of course as well.) I would be most interested in hearing about your experiences. Also, did you do the work yourself, or hire a rigger to do it for you? Thanks, Bob Ohler.... SV "Aloha Spirit" CD25D hull #2
Bobohler@chesapeake.net
Running halyards aft to cockpit (CD25D)
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Albert Levesque
Re: Running halyards aft to cockpit (CD25D)
Our CD33 had already been converted when we bought her. It looks like nothing was added between the liner and cabin top. The holes for the screws have neat plugs in them.
On the other hand, since I have to go forward to set up the topping lift and lazyjacks, as well as to hook the tack when reefing, I prefer to winch and cleat the conventional way.
Albert Levesque
CD33 ATHENA
xjjb81a@prodigy.com
On the other hand, since I have to go forward to set up the topping lift and lazyjacks, as well as to hook the tack when reefing, I prefer to winch and cleat the conventional way.
Albert Levesque
CD33 ATHENA
xjjb81a@prodigy.com
-
JOHN
Re: Running halyards aft to cockpit (CD25D)
We have a CD 30 cutter and everything but the halyards are led aft.
The boat has a Streamstay roller furling main ( I wouldn't advise it
to anyone else, it destroys the sail shape. ) Back to your concerns
on deck hardware installation, we installed three Lewmar self tailers
and turning blocks, rope clutches etc.,. We had no problems with any
installation thru the cabin top. It was never necessary to modify the
cabin top beyond drilling for the hardware fasteners. I do recommend
that after drilling the fastener holes that you do use a countersink
to bevel the edges of the holes on the cabin top to facilitate additional caulking around the shank of the fastener. We used 1/4"
aluminum plates slightly larger in area than the hardware being installed as backup plates. The plates were drilled and tapped as
necessary, a slight bevel on the fastener holes in the plate will
help guide the fasteners and minimize chances of cross threading
during installation. The plates were sanded with several different
grits until very smooth and have an attractive sheen finish. Bolts
were cut off flush with a disk cutter not a hack saw. The plate faces
were sanded once again for a nice finish. You could just use cap nuts
instead of tapping the plates and then polish the cap nuts with a
bench polisher and compound and it would look fiished as well. I would
only use polysulfide for caulking. The genoa and staysail are equipped
with Hood line drive furling units so we aren't concerned with those
halyards either. We have a drifter halyard we do have to go forward for but since its only flown in our fluky tropical light winds it is
of no concern to go forward to handle. Hope this helps you. I check this message board several times a week so if you have other questions
just post them.
riesimage@juno.com
The boat has a Streamstay roller furling main ( I wouldn't advise it
to anyone else, it destroys the sail shape. ) Back to your concerns
on deck hardware installation, we installed three Lewmar self tailers
and turning blocks, rope clutches etc.,. We had no problems with any
installation thru the cabin top. It was never necessary to modify the
cabin top beyond drilling for the hardware fasteners. I do recommend
that after drilling the fastener holes that you do use a countersink
to bevel the edges of the holes on the cabin top to facilitate additional caulking around the shank of the fastener. We used 1/4"
aluminum plates slightly larger in area than the hardware being installed as backup plates. The plates were drilled and tapped as
necessary, a slight bevel on the fastener holes in the plate will
help guide the fasteners and minimize chances of cross threading
during installation. The plates were sanded with several different
grits until very smooth and have an attractive sheen finish. Bolts
were cut off flush with a disk cutter not a hack saw. The plate faces
were sanded once again for a nice finish. You could just use cap nuts
instead of tapping the plates and then polish the cap nuts with a
bench polisher and compound and it would look fiished as well. I would
only use polysulfide for caulking. The genoa and staysail are equipped
with Hood line drive furling units so we aren't concerned with those
halyards either. We have a drifter halyard we do have to go forward for but since its only flown in our fluky tropical light winds it is
of no concern to go forward to handle. Hope this helps you. I check this message board several times a week so if you have other questions
just post them.
riesimage@juno.com