I am tired of dealing with stuffing boxes, period, especially the one in a CD 36 which is very difficult to reach. Have been looking at PYI rotary seal. Has anyone out there switched from stuffing box to rotary seal and did it eliminate the hassel.
sixpence@dmv.com
CD36-STUFFING BOX TO PYI ROTARY SEAL
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Tom
Re: CD36-STUFFING BOX TO PYI ROTARY SEAL
Bob, there were quite a few postings on this subject a few weeks back. You can scroll down about 5/8s of the way toward the end of the current postings, or just type in "stuffing box" in the search window at the top of the BB. Basically many people have done it and none report any problems and all seem happy with the change. I switched to the teflon type stuffing about 8 years ago and have had no drips since.I am tired of dealing with stuffing boxes, period, especially the one in a CD 36 which is very difficult to reach. Have been looking at PYI rotary seal. Has anyone out there switched from stuffing box to rotary seal and did it eliminate the hassel.
TomCambria@mindspring.com
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Ken Coit
Re: CD36-STUFFING BOX TO PYI ROTARY SEAL
Bob,
With a lot of trouble, I installed West Marine's DripLess Teflon-like material (and two rounds of flax packing, per instructions) on Parfait a few weeks ago. It runs cold and dripless in spite of the fact that the packing gland would only take about 1/4 of the teflon material. I took great pains to smooth the shaft and liberally coated the flax with the liquid goop (also a Teflon-like material). I am not ready to swear by it as it only has about three operating hours on it, but it seems to be doing the job.
The trouble stemmed from access, having to make a corkscrew removal tool smaller (vise grips to the rescue again), getting the shaft clean and smooth, and putting it all back together. The packing gland is just the right size for two rounds of 1/4 inch flax; adding the additional material made it touch and go vis-a-vis catching the threads on reassembly after the last round went in. The trick is to cut each round exactly right and packing each layer tightly by running the gland down on the shaft log. I tried working from inside the engine compartment, but after an hour, I figured I had to get out while I could. Lying in the quarter berth with your head and shoulders in the engine compartment is much easier, but be sure to get something comfortable to place on the bulkhead edge or your chest will look like you lost a bad street fight by the time you are done. Maybe a length of split foam pipe insulation would be ideal.
I think the people who use the rotary seal like it. The downside is that if the flexible seal fails, you have a real problem on your hands, not just a leaking stuffing box.
Let us know what you try and how it works out. Good luck.
Ken
ken-shelley.coit@worldnet.att.net
With a lot of trouble, I installed West Marine's DripLess Teflon-like material (and two rounds of flax packing, per instructions) on Parfait a few weeks ago. It runs cold and dripless in spite of the fact that the packing gland would only take about 1/4 of the teflon material. I took great pains to smooth the shaft and liberally coated the flax with the liquid goop (also a Teflon-like material). I am not ready to swear by it as it only has about three operating hours on it, but it seems to be doing the job.
The trouble stemmed from access, having to make a corkscrew removal tool smaller (vise grips to the rescue again), getting the shaft clean and smooth, and putting it all back together. The packing gland is just the right size for two rounds of 1/4 inch flax; adding the additional material made it touch and go vis-a-vis catching the threads on reassembly after the last round went in. The trick is to cut each round exactly right and packing each layer tightly by running the gland down on the shaft log. I tried working from inside the engine compartment, but after an hour, I figured I had to get out while I could. Lying in the quarter berth with your head and shoulders in the engine compartment is much easier, but be sure to get something comfortable to place on the bulkhead edge or your chest will look like you lost a bad street fight by the time you are done. Maybe a length of split foam pipe insulation would be ideal.
I think the people who use the rotary seal like it. The downside is that if the flexible seal fails, you have a real problem on your hands, not just a leaking stuffing box.
Let us know what you try and how it works out. Good luck.
Ken
I am tired of dealing with stuffing boxes, period, especially the one in a CD 36 which is very difficult to reach. Have been looking at PYI rotary seal. Has anyone out there switched from stuffing box to rotary seal and did it eliminate the hassel.
ken-shelley.coit@worldnet.att.net
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Russell
I'm using same .. how cool does yours run ?
I have less than two hours operating time on it yet. The instructions say it will run a bit hot during break-in. Right now, the shaft gets warm near the log, but not so hot that it is uncomfortable to grasp by hand.
When you say yours stays cool, do you mean it feels cool when touched after running?
I might back it off another quarter-turn, but I think I have only two or three real turns on the nut, and I can't back it off too much more. I've always understood that warm, but comfortable to grasp, was fine.
When you say yours stays cool, do you mean it feels cool when touched after running?
I might back it off another quarter-turn, but I think I have only two or three real turns on the nut, and I can't back it off too much more. I've always understood that warm, but comfortable to grasp, was fine.
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Ken Coit
Re: I'm using same .. how cool does yours run ?
It is close to water temperature when running. I, too, only have a few turns on the packing nut and it is packed rather full. I did use a very liberal amount of goop, so it may be that once it has had time to soak well into the flax, that things warm up. I intend to pay attention as we put more hours on her.
ken-shelley.coit@worldnet.att.net
I have less than two hours operating time on it yet. The instructions say it will run a bit hot during break-in. Right now, the shaft gets warm near the log, but not so hot that it is uncomfortable to grasp by hand.
When you say yours stays cool, do you mean it feels cool when touched after running?
I might back it off another quarter-turn, but I think I have only two or three real turns on the nut, and I can't back it off too much more. I've always understood that warm, but comfortable to grasp, was fine.
ken-shelley.coit@worldnet.att.net