New Owner of a CD 10

[Dick Kobayashi]

I am proud to announce that I am the proud new owner of a CD 10, purchased right here in Mattapoisett, MA. I welcome any observations on the 10 and comments on any areas of weakness that might need attention.

[Bill Goldsmith]

Congratulations Dick, it's a great, fun boat. I had one a while back that I fixed up, but had to sell because I needed a tender that would hold five people plus groceries. The one thing I found that needed attention was the flotation foam packed into the fiberglass thwarts under the teak benches. The foam they used on mine was open cell (reminded me of the crispy foam florists use to poke flower stems in to make arrangements). It was saturated. I removed all of it and replaced it with closed cell foam. Worked great.

[Steve Laume]

Feather must have been an inspiration. You will have one very pretty combination with a pair of CDs.

I had forgotten, I also replaced the foam with Dow blue board from the lumber yard. I think I got 1&1/2" thick, which is easy to cut and shape. You can even snap it if you score both sides with a utility knife.

I added a second towing eye. The addition is a bronze pad eye with two bolts and a backing plate in the stem with a bronze ring. It seems much more secure than the single bolt arrangement.

Some sort of gunnel guard is a great idea.

I made up 1" risers for the oar locks that are bolted through the gunnels to keep from rubbing and give a bit better rowing position. If you are going to row for fun and or utility a pair of 7&1/2' Shaw and Tenny spoons will make it an absolute joy, Steve.

[Dick Kobayashi]

Bill, Steve, Thanks.

To tell the truth "Feather" was an inspiration. But getting a CD 10 was not really in my plans. That is, until a couple of days ago when a 10 showed up in the classifieds in the Mattapoisett weekly rag. I bought it, the PO showed me how to rig it and will deliver. Some service.

Thanks for the tips.

I was thinking about getting a bigger boat, but as it turned out I got a smaller one.

[trapper]

Congrats Dick! It seems we like some of the same things. I have a 25D and a cd10.

Rowing your CD10 is great fun and good exercise. Sailing your CD10 is another matter if you are older than 12. You need to be skinny, short, well balanced and the wind should not be blowing very hard (gusts to 10 max)--oh yes, the water should be warm!

All of that said, I LOVE my 10. She is so beatiful. This weekend we will go to a pig roast on an island in our lake. We are not be taking the CD25D, as we will go with fiends on their 40' boat. We will tow the CD10 as our dingy--no sailing. The 10 is a beautiful little boat, easy to row, interesting to sail.

Best of Luck. Mine is a 1969 model.

[Dick Kobayashi]

Steve,

Question: You mention 71/2 foot oars, but when I look at oar sizing charts I come up with 61/2. If you have additional advice on this it would be very helpful

Also what kind of oarlocks do you use - it has been a long time since I have had to deal with this question

My CD10 came with exactly the towing ring system you describe installed, so I seem to be lucky on that score .

And a last question, do you have a system for securing oars within the 10 when towing on a mooring or at the dock. (I mean physically securing so they don't bounce around, not a problem with my ancient and fully depreciated oars, but will be if I treat myself to Tennys)

[Steve Laume]

I went back to the S&T site and still got 7&1/2'. My oars are the spruce, spoon blades with the tapered grips.

I built up a varnish finish on the entire oar with the exception of the grips. I then slipped on 2&1/4" round, bronze, oar locks, stitched on leathers and added the buttons. The horn type oar locks might be nice too as with the round ones they can not be removed for stowage or transport. I use bee's wax on the grips but surfer's sex wax is good too. For the leathers and oar locks I apply Lanicote to keep them lubricated. Depending on how rough you treat them, some sort of tip protection would also be good.

I have found that the oars tend to stay put in the boat pretty well. For choppy conditions and security, when left on shore I have one of those bronze oar holders. Since there is no good place to drill through and lock the oar holder, I made a disc of teak plywood. I lay the oars together put the holder over them and sung the disc up and lock it with a bike cable around the centerboard trunk.

Built in chocks for the oars would be really nice but I never seem to get around to doing that or a dedicated anchor stowage.

As I have posted before, a 1" riser block at the oar sockets helps a lot with rubbing on the gunnels. It becomes even more important if you add some sort of gunnel guard. I tried gluing three strand line on at first and it was a mess in a season. I broke down and bought the padded canvas stuff a few years back and it seems to be holding up well. I had first fastened it with copper tacks but they pulled lose from bashing into the mother ship. I switched over to #4 stainless screws with finish washers and they seem to be doing a fine job.

If you are rowing with cheap 6' oars now the longer S&T will feel like you are gliding, Steve.

[Jim Evans]

Hi Dick,

I recently bought #1396 and did some cosmetic work on her over the winter. I also purchased a set of S&T spoon oars; after talking with Steve at S&T, I went with the 7 foot oars. He was a big help; I suggest you give him a call before ordering your oars. I'm very happy with the dinghy, and the oars. I also purchased a 5 foot S&T paddle, to use for close quarter maneuvering while sailing. I applied the leathers and leather buttons, and am using the round oarlocks, as you can see in the photo. I'm looking forward to spending more time with her this summer.

[Ed Haley]

The CD10 is a great little boat. I'm tall and fat and can still sail her in wind that makes your eyes water - after you get dumped in the lake ;0)) . Seriously, my only difficulty is wanting to return to port when I'm hurting from moving around so much.

To keep the oar from rubbing off the varnish when rowing, I installed bronze half-rounds (6 inches long) just outboard of the oarlocks. Looks classy.

I did the same things as others in installing the closed foam under the seats. I did the same on the aft seat and in addition I placed a porous black sheet of paper used for gardening to keep out the leaves and bugs.

Probably going to have a new sail made (tanbark) soon so I don't wear out the original.

Lots of varnish.

Did I mention that the CD10 is a fun sailboat? Great to row as well.

Have fun with yours.

[Dick Villamil]

I would be interested in finding out what others have done to secure the oars in the CD10. I was merely planning on using bungee cords attached to both sets of oarlocks and wrapped around each oar - fore and aft. Any more seamanlike suggestions will certainly be welcomed! I have 7' spruce oars (old antique 6-sided shafts and made of one piece).
I have the version of CD10 that has molded seata - therefore I cannot wrap the bungee cord around the seats. I am also going to relocate the towing eye above the molded bow seat and use through bolts with a varnished oak or mahogany backing block. I made a Sampson Post for the mast channel when I am not sailing it. She is awaiting completion of the restoration before being splashed this summer - I'm getting very excited!

[John Laton]

This is what I found was an easy quick fix for the rubrail/oar contact issue.. having the original 7' spoon oars and oarlocks I used a 1/2" SS collar with set screw (4 bucks through Graingers). slide them on the oarlock shaft tighten and done.. gives it enough added rise to clear the rail even in a deep dip.. It is one great rowing vessel !

[Dick Kobayashi]

I have been meditating on all of the very helpful and thoughtful comments on this thread throughout the winter. I had a chance to take a look at "Julia K" on Saturday and during the next month will figure out what my priorities are other than getting a decent set of oars. I am in communication with Steve at Shaw and Tenny and he asked me to measure from oarlock to oarlock as there had been some variation in design over the years. This I will do the next time I am with 'Julia K". I will keep you posted on progress.

Let's see now - should I work on Susan B or Julia K first?