repair Oars

[rchiare1]

I have a pair of 7' wooden spoon oars that came with my CD 10.
They appear to be made by Shaw & Tenney, and are probably 30+ years old. They have been painted and the blades both have small splits at the outer ends.
I intend to strip the paint and varnish them.
Before I do that though, I'd like to know if anyone has a recommendation for dealing with the split ends? Is there a cap that I could make or buy? Or perhaps apply several thick coats of a clear polyester?

The cracks are only 2" or so but when I put the boat into the hands of my grandson I expect the oars are going to take a beating.

Bob Chiarello

[Oswego John]

Hi Bob,

I suppose that the bottom line for the method of repair would depend on your desire for strength , for aesthetics , or for a happy blend of both.

Years back, I was involved in something whereby we would go through a good set of oars in no time flat. The oars took a high degree of punishment. If we let a small split go too far, it would ruin the blade completely. The easiest fix for us was to use tin snips and cut 1" bands of copper flashing, wrap them around the blade tips and use copper carpet tacks to attach them.

Instead of copper, you could do the same rinforcement with fiberglass and epoxy.

For the best looking repair, inject epoxy into the splits and clamp until cured. Good oars are expensive.

Good luck.
O J

[rchiare1]

OJ
Thanks for the advice.
I've been considering the copper, but couldn't figure how to attach it without splitting the tips.
I have been thnking of a thickend epoxy would be just about invisible.
The Shaw and Tenny are really too classy to let my Grand son destroy, so I've just ordered a pair of 'synthetic" aluminum and plastic oars for him. I'll use the S&T myself.
Bob

[Steve Laume]

First let me tell you that you are going to love those oars. I never understood why some people spend a great deal of money on a boat and then paddle or row it with cheap oars.

S&T sells copper oar tips that are very classy and equally expensive.

From years of white water paddling, (rock bashing) we always coated the ends of paddles with epoxy and sometimes cloth.

You would need to work epoxy into the cracks no matter what you do to protect the tips. Once that is done you have some options. Epoxy and cloth are very strong. The copper tips could be applied with or without other treatment. One more product to look at is West System's new G/flex. Unlike other epoxies it stays somewhat flexible. You would still want to glue the spits with regular epoxy and then dip the tips in G/flex. It has a huge advantage in that you could then bang the tips into all sorts of things without chipping, denting or cracking the tip protection.

If you want to mask the look of whatever you do, you could always paint just the tips with a masked off swallow tail. It would actually add some class to a fine pair of oars, Steve.

[rchiare1]

First let me tell you that you are going to love those oars. I never understood why some people spend a great deal of money on a boat and then paddle or row it with cheap oars.

S&T sells copper oar tips that are very classy and equally expensive.

From years of white water paddling, (rock bashing) we always coated the ends of paddles with epoxy and sometimes cloth.

You would need to work epoxy into the cracks no matter what you do to protect the tips. Once that is done you have some options. Epoxy and cloth are very strong. The copper tips could be applied with or without other treatment. One more product to look at is West System's new G/flex. Unlike other epoxies it stays somewhat flexible. You would still want to glue the spits with regular epoxy and then dip the tips in G/flex. It has a huge advantage in that you could then bang the tips into all sorts of things without chipping, denting or cracking the tip protection.

If you want to mask the look of whatever you do, you could always paint just the tips with a masked off swallow tail. It would actually add some class to a fine pair of oars, Steve.

I like the Idea of sealing the cracks w epoxy and then dipping in G/Flex.
I recently looked at buying some copper flashing, It seems like a good fix, until I found that I would have to buy a 20' roll for around $50.
I think I'll stick with the epoxy.
bob

[Oswego John]

Hey Bob,

The price of copper is very high today, it's in orbit.

If you don't buy the factory made tips, go to a roofing business. They always save bits and pieces to sell for scrap at the junkyard. You should easily be able to cut a deal with them for what you need.

I don't know if you sail in salt or sweet water. I've seen sheet aluminum used instead of copper.

Myself, I would stick with the epoxy (and G/Flex).

Good luck,
O J

[rchiare1]

OJ
Your absolutely right.

The aluminum that I could use (I sail only in Adirondak Lake waters) can be had for about $ 0.40, for the whole project.
I just prefer the look of copper.

But this year I'll stick to the epoxy and maybe just a small mask of bronze paint on the tip.

[sharkbait]

You do not have to buy a roll of copper. Look or ask around and you can find small square sheets of brass shim stock. You might even look at McMaster Carr.

[RichS]

Another option that I have used is to use thickened epoxy in the cracks then clamp for at least 24 hours. Do no use quick setting hardener with the epoxy the amount of strength lost due to quick cure is not worth it. The important part is then to use light 4oz. fiberglass cloth wrapped over the tip only with epoxy. Be neat here and take your time. The repair will be almost invisable and very strong. I have used System Three, Silvertip clear epoxy here for a very good looking repair. If the oars were oiled or stained the epoxy repair will not take here so check first.