CD10 Centerboard Plug

[Dick Villamil]

Does anyone have a photo or diagram of the plug to fit in the centerboard slot of the CD10? I am finishing the restoration and this is the last item I need to make. Thanks!

[trapper]

I can help you but not until next (not this) but next weekend.

I can take a pic of the centerboard and also measure it.

[Dick Villamil]

Thanks - take your time - I plan on making it over the winter. I have the centerboard but I do not have a picture of the plug that fits in the centerboard slot to prevent water from gushing up through the centerboard slot while towing the boat or when being used with a small outboard motor.

[Duncan]

...I do not have a picture of the plug that fits in the centerboard slot to prevent water from gushing up through the centerboard slot...

I've never seen or heard of such a plug, although I can vouch for how useful it might be!

I did try using a board, about 1" deep and 3" wide, to block off the slot. I attached it with screws in the same pattern as the original screws holding the trim around the slot. (These were 1" longer, to allow the additional depth from the board).

Water still got into the boat, both above and below the hull liner. Then I tried attaching some gasketing material underneath the board, but that didn't work either.

I suspect the drain plug located on the keel behind the slot, but I haven't proved this.

I don't recommend my solution, since it didn't work, and wasn't easily removable. My best guess is still that water doesn't get in over the top of the slot, but through the plug behind it.

[Steve Laume]

Unless you do not have the centerboard in place or are towing at high speed, I would not worry about a plug.

I have towed our CD-10, Feather, a lot at sailing speeds. She tows very dry most of the time. If it is rough and windy we will get some spray but never enough to cause any great concern. I have an incident with a missing drain plug and very heavy rain but never a problem with the centerboard trunk.

The CD-10 centerboard is very well designed. On a dink with a removable dagger board you would need a plug. I have never found it necessary on Feather. I would love to have a full canvas cover. Just make sure you always tie the centerboard to the boat as many have been lost, Steve.

[trapper]

I thought you were talking about the lead weights in the center board
Mine has nothing to plug slot for center board
The slot is well above the water line so it is not an issue on mine

[trapper]

Also Duncan mentioned the hull liner
My 10 is a 1969 model and there is no hull liner

[David van den Burgh]

On the subject, can anyone give me the measurement from the stem to the centerboard pivot pin when the board is down? I need to figure out where the board needs to be located on my CD10.

Thanks.

[Dick Villamil]

Thanks for all the input - this board is great! My CD 10 has the inner liner with molded seats and mahogany seat boards and I am trying to prevent water from getting into the spaces between the liner and hull. I found a severe wear point in the mast step that was letting water in as well as the fact that the liner was not caulked or sealed to the hull around the centerboard slot. I glassed in the leak point in the mast step and sealed the seam between the hull and liner around the centerboard trunk. Now I hear of the leak possibiility in the drain hole in the bilge. Should I seal this hole up or continue to use it as a drain point? What is the advantage of having a drain point if I use a scoop and sponge to remove the water? I have a canvas cover that I plan on using to protect the mahogany trim and keep water out of the boat. I can't wait to learn how to post photos so I can illustrate the process of recovery for this fine-looking boat.

[Steve Laume]

I have a very early CD-10, #65, which is unlined. I always wondered what the weight difference is between lined and unlined. Did they change the outer hull layup? When not if water gets between the hull and the liner, how do you drain it?

If you don't already have them, one of the best things you can do for your boat is get a great pair of oars. 7&1/2 ft Shaw and Tennys are awesome to row with. I still added some riser blocks under the oar locks to get a bit more height.

You are going to love your boat, Steve.

[rchiare1]

Does anyone have a photo or diagram of the plug to fit in the centerboard slot of the CD10? I am finishing the restoration and this is the last item I need to make. Thanks!

This is my first post.
I have a centerboard plug. It is made of Mahogany and I have just stripped the varnish off of it. The underside that sits on the centerboard trunk has a foam rubber seal. The plug does lip uner the trunk but is mostly held in place by gravty

[Dick Villamil]

WOW - thanks for the photos - I now have another winter project! I just repainted the interior of the CD 10 after making many repairs to the inner hull (very thin fiberglass). I changed the color scheme - Petit EasyPoxy off-white for the non-skid and Peit EasyPoxy SandTone for the entire inner hull. My Typhoon has the reverse color scheme so they should look nice together). After applyng two coats of sanding primer I applied the two finish coats with a foam brush - reslts are just like spraying! All mahogany seats are refinished with 5 coats of varnish. Since I saved a lot of mahogany scraps, I can now make a centerboard slot plug!