I believe my alternator is spent

[Ryan Turner]

My alternator has always been a little finnicky (sp?). I could tell because it wouldn't always jump right into charging mode. Sometimes the tachometer wouldn't register anything until the engine got up to about 1500 rpm. The voltage indicator would register whatever voltage state the batteries were in until the tachometer jumped to life then it would read a charging voltage of around 14 volts. Both of them always jumped to life after the 1500 rpm was reached until this weekend. I just couldn't get either of them to work well. Doesn't this mean that the alternator is malfunctioning? There is no sign of an external regulator so I believe the alternator is internally regulated. Anybody have any advice?

I've got a 1983 CD33 with a Universal 5424 by the way.

Ryan Turner
s/v Zenobia
CD33 hull no. 100
Oriental, NC



rdtec@aol.com

[Matt Cawthorne]

Ryan,
I had similar problems with my alternator. The problem turned out to be a problem with one of the wires leading to the alternator opening up once in a while. It was equivalent to turning the key off. Of course when I tested the wires the first time or two the act of bending the wires slightly made the connection good. I eventually found the problem. Once I replaced the wires the problem went away. To prove it to yourself, jiggle the wires and watch the tachometer. If it responds then you have found your problem. If the tach does not respond then measure the voltage to the alternator with the engine off and the key on. The wire that leads to the tach should read low voltage if any. There should be at least two other small diameter control wires. One should be from the key switch and should read 12 volts. The other should go to the + side of your electrical system and also read 12 volts.

Alternately you can take your alternator to an auto electric shop. They can tell you in a few minutes if the alternator is good.


Good luck,
Matt

My alternator has always been a little finnicky (sp?). I could tell because it wouldn't always jump right into charging mode. Sometimes the tachometer wouldn't register anything until the engine got up to about 1500 rpm. The voltage indicator would register whatever voltage state the batteries were in until the tachometer jumped to life then it would read a charging voltage of around 14 volts. Both of them always jumped to life after the 1500 rpm was reached until this weekend. I just couldn't get either of them to work well. Doesn't this mean that the alternator is malfunctioning? There is no sign of an external regulator so I believe the alternator is internally regulated. Anybody have any advice?

I've got a 1983 CD33 with a Universal 5424 by the way.

Ryan Turner
s/v Zenobia
CD33 hull no. 100
Oriental, NC

mcawthor@bellatlantic.net

[Chris Reinke (CD330 Innis]

Ryan - I had a similar problem. I replaced my old alternator (1985 vintage) after finding that it was intermittently charging. I replaced it with a new single wire model and the problem was resolved..... for about two weeks. I then began having the same intermittent problem again. I tested the alternator output by using a digital multi-meter (about $25-30 at Radio Shack) and found my output to be 14.5v. I then traced the wires to the control panel and found the terminal post on the back of the amp meter to be very corroded and with nut was missing. After I cleaned the post and replaced the nut I was able to maintain a constant charge and have not experienced any problems since. I only wish I had kept my old alternator. I would recommend you check the output of the alternator with a meter and jumper wires (to avoid reaching into the compartment while the engine is running). If the alternator is producing a good charge then begin to trace the wires and check all the connections.

My new alternator has an internal regulator and it also requires the engine to hit approximately 1500 rpm’s before it will register and charge on the amp meter or for the tachometer to function. Once the alternator is charging I can reduce the engine speed to idle and it continues to charge.

Alternatively, you can pull the alternator and take it to most car Alternator / Starter shops and get it bench tested. They will be able to advise you quickly if it is working correctly or not.

My alternator has always been a little finnicky (sp?). I could tell because it wouldn't always jump right into charging mode. Sometimes the tachometer wouldn't register anything until the engine got up to about 1500 rpm. The voltage indicator would register whatever voltage state the batteries were in until the tachometer jumped to life then it would read a charging voltage of around 14 volts. Both of them always jumped to life after the 1500 rpm was reached until this weekend. I just couldn't get either of them to work well. Doesn't this mean that the alternator is malfunctioning? There is no sign of an external regulator so I believe the alternator is internally regulated. Anybody have any advice?

I've got a 1983 CD33 with a Universal 5424 by the way.

Ryan Turner
s/v Zenobia
CD33 hull no. 100
Oriental, NC

chris.reinke@transamerica.com

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Ryan,

Follow the advice given by the first two respondents, and if the alternator is truly bad, have it rebuilt! Assuming that the alternator you have now has been meeting your needs, there is no reason to replace it with one of the fancy new, MARINE, seperate regulator required alternators from WM or other suppliers (Marine is in CAPS to indicate EXPENSIVE!). That Universal you have probably came with a standard automotive type alternator(probably Motorolla), that has probably been up to the task for many years.

When I had trouble with Hanaleis' regulator, I had it rebuilt for I think 80 - 100 dollars. They replaced all diodes, bearings, brushes, etc, bench tested it, sand-blasted the case and even repainted the thing. It works like new, and Hanalei couldn't be happier. The idea here is KICS! (Keep It Cheap, Sir) or something like that!

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30

[Joe Wysong]

Ryan,

Follow the advice given by the first two respondents, and if the alternator is truly bad, have it rebuilt! Assuming that the alternator you have now has been meeting your needs, there is no reason to replace it with one of the fancy new, MARINE, seperate regulator required alternators from WM or other suppliers (Marine is in CAPS to indicate EXPENSIVE!). That Universal you have probably came with a standard automotive type alternator(probably Motorolla), that has probably been up to the task for many years.

When I had trouble with Hanaleis' regulator, I had it rebuilt for I think 80 - 100 dollars. They replaced all diodes, bearings, brushes, etc, bench tested it, sand-blasted the case and even repainted the thing. It works like new, and Hanalei couldn't be happier. The idea here is KICS! (Keep It Cheap, Sir) or something like that!

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30

Dave is absolutely correct. If your alternator is a Balmar, it is fundamentally a Delco automotive unit and any automotive generator/alternator rebuilding outfit can do the job just fine.

We had an interesting experience a couple of years ago on our 330 where much of the electrical system got fried. Both the alternator and the original starter on our Universal needed to be rebuilt.

Robinhood Marine recommended a local automobile outfit and we got the alternator and the starter (including solonoid) rebuilt for under $100.

Another vote for Keep it Cheap!

Joe




tgjournal@gestalt.org

[Chris Reinke]

I like the way Dave thinks!!!

Having an existing alternator rebuilt is a cost saving alternative to purchasing a new alternator. Another option is to buy a rebuilt alternator off the rack to avoid having to wait for your original unit to be rebuilt. My failure occurred during a cruise and a rebuilt was not available, hence replacement with new was my only choice. I used the required replacement as an opportunity to re-evaluate my charging requirements and decided to upgrade to a higher output alternator. The technician at the alternator shop indicated that the original Motorola unit would have been sufficient to recharge my system if my electrical requirements had remained the same as when the boat had been built. I have since added an additional battery, radar, refrigeration, lighting, and navigational equipment. Getting the larger Delco unit to fit was a bit of an adventure but I am very happy with the reduced charging time. I apologize if we have complicated your decision.

Ryan,

Follow the advice given by the first two respondents, and if the alternator is truly bad, have it rebuilt! Assuming that the alternator you have now has been meeting your needs, there is no reason to replace it with one of the fancy new, MARINE, seperate regulator required alternators from WM or other suppliers (Marine is in CAPS to indicate EXPENSIVE!). That Universal you have probably came with a standard automotive type alternator(probably Motorolla), that has probably been up to the task for many years.

When I had trouble with Hanaleis' regulator, I had it rebuilt for I think 80 - 100 dollars. They replaced all diodes, bearings, brushes, etc, bench tested it, sand-blasted the case and even repainted the thing. It works like new, and Hanalei couldn't be happier. The idea here is KICS! (Keep It Cheap, Sir) or something like that!

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30

[Tom]

My alternator has always been a little finnicky (sp?). I could tell because it wouldn't always jump right into charging mode. Sometimes the tachometer wouldn't register anything until the engine got up to about 1500 rpm. The voltage indicator would register whatever voltage state the batteries were in until the tachometer jumped to life then it would read a charging voltage of around 14 volts. Both of them always jumped to life after the 1500 rpm was reached until this weekend. I just couldn't get either of them to work well. Doesn't this mean that the alternator is malfunctioning? There is no sign of an external regulator so I believe the alternator is internally regulated. Anybody have any advice?

I've got a 1983 CD33 with a Universal 5424 by the way.

Ryan Turner
s/v Zenobia
CD33 hull no. 100
Oriental, NC

FWIW My alternator has run as you describe for the last 11 years. When you first start up it doesn't show a charge. Wait about 30 seconds at idle and everything including the tach comes on. Alternately run it up to 1500 rpm and that will jump start it right away. I thought that's the way they were supposed to work. Once it comes on it never jitters off and I've checked the wires and not found any problems. Once the eye on the big fat wire leading to the stud on the bck of the alternator vibrated loose and caused what you describe. Even though the wires look OK check to be sure the eyes are tight. They were only crimped on originally. Good advice in the previous postings. Let us know what you find out.



TonCambria@mindspring.com

[Ryan Turner]

Sometimes it's hard to know whether or not you're getting good advice. But not on this board. It's always good (or at least sincerely helpful). People who stand to make money helping me fix this problem recommend buying a Balmar alternator and seperate regulator or some equivalent. The price tag? $600.00 plus installation. Unbelieveable! I think I'll go with the alternator rebuild option instead. But before I do that I'll check out all my connections to make sure they are clean and tight.

Thanks everyone for the good advice. I'll post the final solution whenever I figure out the fix.

Ryan



rdtec@aol.com

[Al Levesque]

To add support to Tom's comment, our 1983 CD33 with the same engine as yours has had intermittent bouts of not indicating charge or tach speed immediately upon starting. We have not seen any indication of any problem as a result and I wouldn't spend a cent to change it. On the other hand, last year, we had a problem where a stiff wire used for a suppressor, fractured and caused intermittent charging. Eliminating the suppressor eliminated that problem. The other slight nuisance is still the same.

Al



albertlevesque@cove.com