CD 33 Hatch Refinishing v. Replacement

[rperrone]

Two hatches on 33 cabin top. 1 in Vee forward of mast, other in Main cabin. Both Bomars heavy duty. Appearance
in bad shape. Paint flaking, knee braces/ brackets worn. Anyone use Hatchmasters? How much work are we talking about? Heard this is very difficult task to remove?

[Cathy Monaghan]

Hi Bob,

Several years ago I removed the main hatch on our CD32. The bedding compound had dried out in the forward starboard corner and developed a leak there.

It isn't too difficult to remove the hatch. The hardest part is breaking the seal where the bedding compound is still good and firmly attached. You'll need a nice new sharp putty knife and a mallet to get that job done -- and a long screwdriver to use as a pry bar.

I also removed the Lexan from the hatch and any of the hardware that could be removed as well as the gasket. You'll have to dig out the old glazing compound between the Lexan and the hatch and be real careful doing that so as not to damage the Lexan. Then you can remove the old paint, sand the entire hatch and repaint it. I used Rust-O-Leum and it has held up pretty well.

I purchased the new gasket, gasket glue and glazing compound from Bomar. Don't forget that Bomar is a division of Pompanette. So to find them online, just go to http://www.pompanette.com/

If you use their online catalog, our hatches are the Cast Aluminum Almag hatches. You can also order parts for these hatches, including the gasket, glazing sealant and glue, from their web site, but you can also order them from Defender, etc.

When I re-installed the refurbished hatch, I think I used SeaLife caulk (can't really remember which caulk) to rebed it and it hasn't leaked since.

Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

[Cathy Monaghan]

I forget to mention that used Meguire's Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Cleaner #17 and followed that up with Meguire's Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Polish #10 before reinstalling the Lexan.


-Cathy

[rperrone]

Thanks. Checking w/ Hatchmasters. Bomar wants like a grand, sorry
boat note, for the smaller one and approx 1.4 boat notes for the larger.

I may attempt your process since boat notes seem harder to come by these days.

[Steve Laume]

If not leaking, has anyone, masked, prepped and painted in place?

It doesn't seem like it would be nearly as much trouble to take out the hinge pins and deal with the refinish from there.

If a complete removal is involved powder coating would also be a great option, Steve.

[rperrone]

Frame to F'glass not leaking. Re-gasketed 2 years ago and remember
eyeballing the hinge pins. They look like the would be h___ to remove.

Not sure how to remove hinge pins? Or, if can be, what kind of shape they would be in when done? Not a bad idea. Might need new hinge pins. Not sure if would have to get custom fabricated.

Powder coating would be the way to go.

[Cathy Monaghan]

Frame to F'glass not leaking. Re-gasketed 2 years ago and remember
eyeballing the hinge pins. They look like the would be h___ to remove.

Not sure how to remove hinge pins? Or, if can be, what kind of shape they would be in when done? Not a bad idea. Might need new hinge pins. Not sure if would have to get custom fabricated.

Powder coating would be the way to go.

See how much powder coating would cost first. It may be just as much to have the hatches repowder coated as it would for new hatches.

By the way, on an almost different subject, if you're thinking about repowder coating your old Edson pedestal, Edson recommends not to. Why? They said it would cost more to have it powder coated than to buy a new one. Anyway, I used RustOleum on my pedestal too and it looks great.

-Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

[K_LeMans]

I removed both hatches (as well as the traveler bridge) several years ago and had them powder coated. It was way way less money than what you're talking about for new hatches. I'm thinking like $400 or so including the bridge. Powder coating is great, no loss of gloss after six or seven years. There is a marine grade of the coating available. Just keep in mind that the hatches are cast aluminum, and will off-gas during the powder coating process, leaving small pin holes in the coating. I was told that this doesn't affect coating adhesion and time has borne that out.

It's not that hard to remove the hatches if you have a good remover like de-bond. The hinge pins are just friction pins that you can push out with a drift or screwdriver. Good opportunity to replace the glazing as well.

[doubleb]

Hey Bob.
I replaced my Lexan just about a year ago on the forward hatch it was severely cracked and scratched. I did not have any leaks at the time so I did not remove the whole hatch and I was short on time. I removed the hinge pins (spring pins) they came out easier than I thought. I made a wood cover (box) to cover the hole and took the just the top home to work on. I did not have time for a total restoration paint and or powder coat.
The replacement lexan lens came from W/M it is a UV safe Lexan with a 10 year warranty MR10. The glazing is recommended by Bomar it is GE SSG4000 UltraGlaze 11 oz tube (black) I got it from an Amazon search. The gasket also came from W/M a direct replacement for the Bomar hatch.
The hardest part was getting the old lens out in one piece (thanks duct tape) and a good scraper. I copied the lens to a wood template and used a flush cut router bit to cut out the new lens.
I think D. Casey has a good write up on this and I also found some instruction on line. All and all it came out ok for a first timer. I replaced my hinge pins with SS split pins from the local fastener co.
So far no leaks I also put in a cypress reinforcement on the inside center and installed my solar fan there.
The trick is to clean and degrease everything!
I am not good at posting pic’s but I will give it shot later.
Good luck
B.B.

[rperrone]

I appreciate all the help. Good stuff.