My new to me CD22D was purchased (knowingly) with a seized Yanmar 1GM. The boat has been in dry storage for at least 4 years and it is said that the engine was in good running condition when last used - it received a complete rebuild in 2000.
Knowing nothing about diesels, I have asked for advice from all who would listen and the options appear to be:
-Revome fuel injector and pour penetrating lube or Marvel Mystery Oil into cylinder
-Remove head and do the same
-Remove engine from boat and take to a mechanic for a complete checkup
-Bring the entire boat to mechanic to work on the engine in place
Being unfamiliar with Diesels, the last two seem to make sense; however, I don't want to over-react. Thoughts from those more familiar with this engine would be helpful.
Yanmar 1GM
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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tartansailor
- Posts: 1528
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
Option 2
Option 2 would be preferred because you may have difficulties getting the fuel injector back functioning properly.
You would also have the chance to clean the wall of loosened corrosion. IMHO.
Dick
You would also have the chance to clean the wall of loosened corrosion. IMHO.
Dick
Try to get it moving first but probably it is coming out....
Sometimes the condensation gets into the cylider and the rings rust to the wall. I would try the penetrating oil, let it set for a few days and try rocking it back and forth with your breaker bar, but in my experience, even if you get them loose, you won't get compression because the rings are siezed into their grooves and won't seal well enough to start. Maybe you will be more lucky than I.
Assuming it needs to come out means new rings and honing the cylinder wall to smooth it at a minimum. This is not too difficult or expensive and a decent do-it-yourself project, or choose your favourite shop. Take the opportunity to grind the values and freshen up anything else that looks tired (injectors, mixing elbow, etc.)
Be alert to other possible more extensive problems, such as water (more than just condensation) got in or the possibility that it failed prior to placing in storage (ran out of oil, etc). Assuming it was just disuse and codensation induced rusting, probably you can repair it.
The hardest part will be getting it out and back in.
Assuming it needs to come out means new rings and honing the cylinder wall to smooth it at a minimum. This is not too difficult or expensive and a decent do-it-yourself project, or choose your favourite shop. Take the opportunity to grind the values and freshen up anything else that looks tired (injectors, mixing elbow, etc.)
Be alert to other possible more extensive problems, such as water (more than just condensation) got in or the possibility that it failed prior to placing in storage (ran out of oil, etc). Assuming it was just disuse and codensation induced rusting, probably you can repair it.
The hardest part will be getting it out and back in.
Oil into Yanmar Cylinder
Removing glowplug(s) might be another and simpler option for getting oil into the cylinder.
Re: Oil into Yanmar Cylinder
No glow plug..satu wrote:Removing glowplug(s) might be another and simpler option for getting oil into the cylinder.
Remove the inj and squirt Marvel Mystry Oil and hand crank..
Randy 25D Seraph #161
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Ken Textor
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Feb 2nd, '06, 08:41
- Location: Martha Kay, CD 26, Bath, Maine
Option 3
Gary,
A seized diesel engine is a serious problem. Diesels rely on high compression for their firepower, unlike gasoline engines that rely on spark plugs plus modest compression. Therefore, the rings and cylinder walls in a diesel must be in excellent shape for good, reliable starts, power delivery, etc. In all likelihood, however, those rings are seized to the cylinder walls. Dumping oil or some penetrating oil into the cylinder may unseize this bond. But you???re likely to get scoring of the cylinder walls, which can affect your compression over the long haul. It???s not a big deal to take that engine out and drive it to a mechanic for a thorough check. If the engine really was overhauled in 2000, and it is now seized, that indicates to me an owner who is unfamiliar with proper maintenance procedure, upkeep, etc. Thus, there may be more problems than just the seizing. A good mechanic will tell you what else is wrong, going bad, could be a future problem, etc. Also, since the mechanic will be running the motor on a bench, it separates the motor from your boat???s fuel delivery system. This is important because a boat???s fuel delivery system is BY FAR the biggest source of problems with diesels. Thus, when the mechanic gets it running for bench tests, you now know you have a good secondary fuel filter, fuel pump, injector, etc., all of which are items you can remove from the list of possible sources of future engine problems. Hope this helps,
Ken
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Vapir No2 Review
A seized diesel engine is a serious problem. Diesels rely on high compression for their firepower, unlike gasoline engines that rely on spark plugs plus modest compression. Therefore, the rings and cylinder walls in a diesel must be in excellent shape for good, reliable starts, power delivery, etc. In all likelihood, however, those rings are seized to the cylinder walls. Dumping oil or some penetrating oil into the cylinder may unseize this bond. But you???re likely to get scoring of the cylinder walls, which can affect your compression over the long haul. It???s not a big deal to take that engine out and drive it to a mechanic for a thorough check. If the engine really was overhauled in 2000, and it is now seized, that indicates to me an owner who is unfamiliar with proper maintenance procedure, upkeep, etc. Thus, there may be more problems than just the seizing. A good mechanic will tell you what else is wrong, going bad, could be a future problem, etc. Also, since the mechanic will be running the motor on a bench, it separates the motor from your boat???s fuel delivery system. This is important because a boat???s fuel delivery system is BY FAR the biggest source of problems with diesels. Thus, when the mechanic gets it running for bench tests, you now know you have a good secondary fuel filter, fuel pump, injector, etc., all of which are items you can remove from the list of possible sources of future engine problems. Hope this helps,
Ken
________
Vapir No2 Review
Last edited by Ken Textor on Aug 14th, '11, 09:33, edited 1 time in total.
Thank you
I appreciate all of the advice. I believe I will follow Ken's advice of removing the engine and bringing it to a mechanic. The combination of my lack of knowledge about both this specific engine's history and diesels in general leads me to feel that a thorough check up on a mechanic's bench would be the best way to start my new relationship with this engine.
It looks to me like I will need to rig up some type of hoist as I can't see where there would be room for 2 strong men to lift this out of a CD 22 companionway.
It looks to me like I will need to rig up some type of hoist as I can't see where there would be room for 2 strong men to lift this out of a CD 22 companionway.
While the engine is out
Take the opportunity to clean the fuel tank and lines. Put in a new filter. No need to screw up the engine with bad fuel.
Have A Nice Day
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barfwinkle
- Posts: 2169
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 10:34
- Location: S/V Rhapsody CD25D