I am going to read up on this subject in various books I have, but I thought I would poll you folks too.
For various practical and logistical reasons, I may abandon my plan to move up to a bigger anchor. I currently use a 10 KG (22 lb.) Bruce, which I like, and it fits well. And I can raise it and its 40' feet of chain with my manual vertical-axis windlass.
So I have been thinking about putting out a second anchor in a blow.
The only time I have ever used a second anchor is from the stern to limit swinging in a crowded anchorage (with little wind in the forecast). That experience is not relevant.
I have always thought that if I were to put out two bow anchors, I would do it like this:
This is a two-person job, with one at the helm. Drop and set the primary anchor.
Then, while taking up some slack in the rode just set (so as not to run over it), motor forward to a spot which, after the boat is back in position, would represent about a 30-45 degree angle between the two rodes.
Then back up (while paying out both rodes), and set the second anchor while there is still some slack in the first rode.
Then back up (or be blown back) while paying out both rodes.
Run both rodes (nylon at this point) back from the sprit, secure them on the foredeck cleats, and lead them out the bow chocks, one on each side.
The strategy would be to try to split the angle from which the wind was expected or already blowing. I realize that one will not likely nail this angle precisely.
By the way, my second anchor is a Fortress FX-16.
I can imagine doing this, but my guess is that it is a little harder than it sounds, but doable. This is my concern: if the wind shifts and the boat manages to swing all the way around, the two roads will twist together just forward of the bow. If two identical nylon rodes are twisted together, is there chafe? (I tend to think not; my two mooring pendants are always twisted up. On the other hand, usually only one is under strain.) What other issues might arise?
And when it's all over with, am I going to be able to untangle the two rodes without detaching one from the boat? (I can only do this if I crawl over the vee berth and get into the anchor locker from the cabin. Not very practical!)
Feedback, please. Since I am just doing this in my head, I am probably overlooking something about the drill of doing it. But moreover, I am interested in hearing comments on the effectiveness of this approach. And hearing about other approaches. I know that the Bahamian moor (180-degree opposed anchors set from the bow) is one.
Has anyone out there anchored with two anchors much? I really don't see people doing it. Comments?
Dean
Anchoring with two anchors
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Dean Abramson
- Posts: 1483
- Joined: Jul 5th, '05, 11:23
- Location: CD 31 "Loda May"
Anchoring with two anchors
Dean Abramson
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
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Sea Hunt
- Posts: 1310
- Joined: Jan 29th, '06, 23:14
- Location: Former caretaker of 1977 Cape Dory Typhoon Weekender (Hull #1400) "S/V Tadpole"
Dean:
Others with years of experience will weigh in on your specific questions, etc.
I recently took an anchoring class at the local club. Your method for deploying 2 anchors seems to be pretty similar to what was recommended at the class.
To make sure you know exactly where on the bottom each anchor is, it was recommended that each anchor have a float ball (we used small fenders) attached to the anchor with line length in excess of the depth. This way, when you motor forward to set the 2nd anchor you have a visual surface mark to reference.
Others with years of experience will weigh in on your specific questions, etc.
I recently took an anchoring class at the local club. Your method for deploying 2 anchors seems to be pretty similar to what was recommended at the class.
To make sure you know exactly where on the bottom each anchor is, it was recommended that each anchor have a float ball (we used small fenders) attached to the anchor with line length in excess of the depth. This way, when you motor forward to set the 2nd anchor you have a visual surface mark to reference.
Fair winds,
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
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Joe CD MS 300
- Posts: 995
- Joined: Jul 5th, '05, 16:18
- Location: Cape Dory Motor Sailor 300 / "Quest" / Linekin Bay - Boothbay Harbor
Dean,
What are the reasons for not going with a larger anchor? I think that that is a far better approach than the hassel of setting two anchors at an angle on a regular basis. If for what ever reason I felt the need or necessity to set a second anchor (other than a stern anchor) I think I'd use a second anchor in front of the primary. I think both my old Delta and new Rocna have attachement holes for a chain lead to an anchor in front. Never have done it either way but I'm guessing that setting and retrieval would be much easier with the in line anchors. With the big tidal ranges in Maine seens like the two anchors at a 45 degree angle would foul themselves a lot.
Joe
What are the reasons for not going with a larger anchor? I think that that is a far better approach than the hassel of setting two anchors at an angle on a regular basis. If for what ever reason I felt the need or necessity to set a second anchor (other than a stern anchor) I think I'd use a second anchor in front of the primary. I think both my old Delta and new Rocna have attachement holes for a chain lead to an anchor in front. Never have done it either way but I'm guessing that setting and retrieval would be much easier with the in line anchors. With the big tidal ranges in Maine seens like the two anchors at a 45 degree angle would foul themselves a lot.
Joe
Better to find humility before humility finds you.
Anchors??
When I purchased my Cape Dory in 2000, it came with a CQR that
would not hold anything, even in a small wind.
I replaced it with a 33 pound Bruce, and have not any problems with anchoring, even with 40 knot winds! (Not much sleep that night however!)
I do have over 300 feet of chain, which really keeps the anchor in place in strong winds, and a Maxwell 500 to pull up the chain, etc.
Before looking at the hassle of trying to "untie" the wraps of two
chains, I would look into a larger anchor with at least 50 feet of chain.
Take a look at the huge tankers (as we have in Anacortes) and you
will see that they rely on chain as their anchors are relatively small
for the tonnage that they have to hold in nasty weather.
Hope this helps
Ken Cave
Cape Dory 28
Dragon Tale
would not hold anything, even in a small wind.
I replaced it with a 33 pound Bruce, and have not any problems with anchoring, even with 40 knot winds! (Not much sleep that night however!)
I do have over 300 feet of chain, which really keeps the anchor in place in strong winds, and a Maxwell 500 to pull up the chain, etc.
Before looking at the hassle of trying to "untie" the wraps of two
chains, I would look into a larger anchor with at least 50 feet of chain.
Take a look at the huge tankers (as we have in Anacortes) and you
will see that they rely on chain as their anchors are relatively small
for the tonnage that they have to hold in nasty weather.
Hope this helps
Ken Cave
Cape Dory 28
Dragon Tale
2 anchors
Hi Dean. I have discussed deploying two anchors with a good friend of mine who has made 4 trips down the intracoastal and over to the the Bahama's. He ALWAYS anchors out and never likes the idea of two anchors or buoys attached to them. He uses a bigger anchor and ALL chain.(Of course he has a electric windlass it's a 40 ft. boat). I just got back from the Keys and i observed alot of sailboats that were using two anchors with no problem but they were all on a lee shore without much wind. And they all set there anchors just as you described. Good luck
I almost always set two anchors
Hi Dean
I am a real believer in this method, and have anchored this way for years (decades, actually!). It takes a bit longer, but you make up for that with the extra sleep you get!
Method:
(I don't use the engine until the end of the process, since I do it singlehanded, and since I get a better feel for where the anchors are when I do it manually).
Set the primary the normal way, and drop back enough to get it set (say, 3:1 scope). Then haul up on the rode about halfway, and pause. The boat glides forward a bit, then blows off sideways. Let the second anchor go from this offset downwind position.
(This is the hardest part to describe, but it is quite simple once you've done it a couple of times - it's mostly a matter of getting the feel of it)
This generally gives me about a 20-30 degree angle between the two anchors, once I drop back to a 7:1 scope. Then I take bearings ashore, and run the engine up about halfway, in reverse, to dig in deeper. Then I give it full throttle, and walk up to the bow, check things, and feel the rodes for dragging. Then I go back and shut the engine off.
This means the anchors are holding at full throttle for about a minute. At that point, I generally call it good, and so far I have never dragged enough to notice.
I've done this using the engine for the maneuvering, or dinghy-ing out with the second anchor, but what I've described above has "evolved" into my preferred way to do it.
Criticisms:
Apart from "it's too much trouble", people have expressed concerns about either the rodes twisting, or about the primary dragging and then tripping the secondary.
Generally speaking, the rodes will only twist when the wind is fluky enough to blow the boat around in circles, and I haven't had any problems dragging or retrieving due to twisting.
As far as the first anchor tripping the second, this is almost impossible, especially since it's on a longer rode.
Benefits
1) The boat doesn't swing as much
2) A failure on one anchor still leaves you with a perfectly good, well-set secondary
3) The strain and chafe is distributed between the two anchors, since the boat will swing from one to the other.
4) If one anchor drags, the other one will either hold the boat, or slow down the drag enough for one or both to reset.
Equipment
On a Cape Dory 27, I use one boat length of 3/8"chain, plus 5/8" nylon three strand rode. The primary anchor is a 16.5 pound Bruce, and the secondary is a 10 lb Danforth (this could vary, of course, depending on bottom conditions, but this combination has worked out well for me).
I know some people prefer larger anchors, but my experience is that good technique, heavy chain, and generous scope are the most important factors.
Conclusion
I am surprised how many people trust to a single anchor. All it takes is for one part of the "system" to let go, and the game is over. Sometimes I grumble to myself a bit about the extra work, but I think it's just good seamanship to always have a backup in place.
I am a real believer in this method, and have anchored this way for years (decades, actually!). It takes a bit longer, but you make up for that with the extra sleep you get!
Method:
(I don't use the engine until the end of the process, since I do it singlehanded, and since I get a better feel for where the anchors are when I do it manually).
Set the primary the normal way, and drop back enough to get it set (say, 3:1 scope). Then haul up on the rode about halfway, and pause. The boat glides forward a bit, then blows off sideways. Let the second anchor go from this offset downwind position.
(This is the hardest part to describe, but it is quite simple once you've done it a couple of times - it's mostly a matter of getting the feel of it)
This generally gives me about a 20-30 degree angle between the two anchors, once I drop back to a 7:1 scope. Then I take bearings ashore, and run the engine up about halfway, in reverse, to dig in deeper. Then I give it full throttle, and walk up to the bow, check things, and feel the rodes for dragging. Then I go back and shut the engine off.
This means the anchors are holding at full throttle for about a minute. At that point, I generally call it good, and so far I have never dragged enough to notice.
I've done this using the engine for the maneuvering, or dinghy-ing out with the second anchor, but what I've described above has "evolved" into my preferred way to do it.
Criticisms:
Apart from "it's too much trouble", people have expressed concerns about either the rodes twisting, or about the primary dragging and then tripping the secondary.
Generally speaking, the rodes will only twist when the wind is fluky enough to blow the boat around in circles, and I haven't had any problems dragging or retrieving due to twisting.
As far as the first anchor tripping the second, this is almost impossible, especially since it's on a longer rode.
Benefits
1) The boat doesn't swing as much
2) A failure on one anchor still leaves you with a perfectly good, well-set secondary
3) The strain and chafe is distributed between the two anchors, since the boat will swing from one to the other.
4) If one anchor drags, the other one will either hold the boat, or slow down the drag enough for one or both to reset.
Equipment
On a Cape Dory 27, I use one boat length of 3/8"chain, plus 5/8" nylon three strand rode. The primary anchor is a 16.5 pound Bruce, and the secondary is a 10 lb Danforth (this could vary, of course, depending on bottom conditions, but this combination has worked out well for me).
I know some people prefer larger anchors, but my experience is that good technique, heavy chain, and generous scope are the most important factors.
Conclusion
I am surprised how many people trust to a single anchor. All it takes is for one part of the "system" to let go, and the game is over. Sometimes I grumble to myself a bit about the extra work, but I think it's just good seamanship to always have a backup in place.
Last edited by Duncan on Mar 10th, '11, 23:55, edited 3 times in total.
Two anchors
I use two on a regular basis - not frequently but at least several times a year, mostly for heavy weather, or large rafts. I use a 44 Delta primary (all chain, starboard ) and a 45 CQR (30 feet chain + nylon, port).
You a right it is best with two people. What I do normally is to set the CQR (nylon/port) first and drop back to about 10 to 1 scope. Then I go slow ahead with a fair amount of right rudder far enough to drop the Delta with about seven to one. I take in rode on the CQR to keep it out of the prop. At the right time I have my wife put the engine in neutral and when forward motion ceases drop the Delta and drift back till the nylon rode pays back out. You want the scopes different to reduce the chance of the anchors fouling each other. I will wait and watch for a while before backing on the hooks. Buoys on the anchors is a good idea and I use lobster trap floats. After everything is settled down and dug in I lead the nylon through a chock and rig the snubber.
As to chafe if you get a twist. Yes, the two rodes will surge differently. Most of the time one will be slack and the load may well shift from one to the other as the wind shifts.
Now for your recovery question. If you have one or two twists it can often be done from deck by using a rolling hitch on one rode and then pulling enough slack to make a bight large enough to raise the other anchor through it. It isn't real bad but takes time and you may have to readjust your rolling hitch occasionally. If it gets real bad you will have to bring one rode on deck and pass it around the other.
One alternative for dropping the second anchor is to use a dinghy to drag it out. If you are using oars or a small outboard it is easiest to load the anchor and rode in the dink and pay it out as you go. In my case with a RIB and 9.9 I sling the second anchor under the bow of the dink with the painter and back it out. If I'm dragging nylon I can really run it out.
I haven't tried tandem on the anchors for a couple reasons:
1. Seems the desire for the second anchor usually comes after the first one is down.
2. Rigging and deploying seems to me awkward and convoluted, unless you plan to stay in one place for a long time.
3. Recovery See number two above only more so.
You a right it is best with two people. What I do normally is to set the CQR (nylon/port) first and drop back to about 10 to 1 scope. Then I go slow ahead with a fair amount of right rudder far enough to drop the Delta with about seven to one. I take in rode on the CQR to keep it out of the prop. At the right time I have my wife put the engine in neutral and when forward motion ceases drop the Delta and drift back till the nylon rode pays back out. You want the scopes different to reduce the chance of the anchors fouling each other. I will wait and watch for a while before backing on the hooks. Buoys on the anchors is a good idea and I use lobster trap floats. After everything is settled down and dug in I lead the nylon through a chock and rig the snubber.
As to chafe if you get a twist. Yes, the two rodes will surge differently. Most of the time one will be slack and the load may well shift from one to the other as the wind shifts.
Now for your recovery question. If you have one or two twists it can often be done from deck by using a rolling hitch on one rode and then pulling enough slack to make a bight large enough to raise the other anchor through it. It isn't real bad but takes time and you may have to readjust your rolling hitch occasionally. If it gets real bad you will have to bring one rode on deck and pass it around the other.
One alternative for dropping the second anchor is to use a dinghy to drag it out. If you are using oars or a small outboard it is easiest to load the anchor and rode in the dink and pay it out as you go. In my case with a RIB and 9.9 I sling the second anchor under the bow of the dink with the painter and back it out. If I'm dragging nylon I can really run it out.
I haven't tried tandem on the anchors for a couple reasons:
1. Seems the desire for the second anchor usually comes after the first one is down.
2. Rigging and deploying seems to me awkward and convoluted, unless you plan to stay in one place for a long time.
3. Recovery See number two above only more so.
Jim Davis
S/V Isa Lei
S/V Isa Lei
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Dean Abramson
- Posts: 1483
- Joined: Jul 5th, '05, 11:23
- Location: CD 31 "Loda May"
It has to do with the distance from the bow roller to where my chain-stopper is located. I just last spring installed the chain-stopper, and it would be problematic to relocate it because of where (underneath) the backing plate would then need to be. If I get an anchor with a longer shank, it will not fit in the current space. Also, it is quite rare that I feel the need for anything more. This 22 lb. Bruce has never dragged once, and I have a lot of faith in it. The amount of times I want more doesn't really justify, to me: the cost, the work of re-doing things on the foredeck, and having to manually raise a bigger anchor day after day. It seems like about 85% of the time, it is very calm at night on the coast of Maine. And the holding ground is usually excellent. In the five years we have sailed this boat, I can only remember two nights when I wished for more. (But survived on the ole Bruce anyway.)Dean,
What are the reasons for not going with a larger anchor?
I am just looking for some extra insurance on those infrequent really windy nights. And as Duncan mentioned, there is redundancy in the two-hook plan; I like that. If the nylon gets cut on some piece of scrap on the bottom, that single large anchor will get lonely. And unlike with a single anchor, you have the strength of two rodes; and the load is distributed between two cleats.
Thanks for all the input, folks. Keep it coming.
Dean
Dean Abramson
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
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WaywardWind
Problems
Two anchors out in a V don't hold all that much better than just one anchor. In fact, once the angle between the two anchors gets to be 60 degrees total (30 degrees either side), the "anchor system" actually has more pull on each anchor than the total pull on just one anchor straight out.
I have used two anchors out in a V, because I had 'em and they were quick to deploy.
In dicey bottom conditions, I have used two anchors in a train -- one anchor tied to the other with about 20 feet of rope -- to good effect. There can be problems if the wind shifts.
One heavier anchor works better, much better, but two anchors is an option.
Also an option is to tie a 10# or 15# mushroom anchor to the front of the primary anchor.
All chain is NOT recommended (except that it runs through an electric windlass easier) because in storm surge conditions the chain can pull up short ("bar tight") repeatedly -- with SERIOUS G-loads, 5 to 10 G's in some bad conditions -- and break the bitt from the boat, or break the chain/shackle, or tear the anchor from the bottom. At least 30 to 50 feet of nylon snubber should ALWAYS be used to reduce the chance of anchor system breakage/breakout. Better yet is two (2) nylon snubber lines, one set "loose" by several feet as a back up in case the first chafes through.
I have used two anchors out in a V, because I had 'em and they were quick to deploy.
In dicey bottom conditions, I have used two anchors in a train -- one anchor tied to the other with about 20 feet of rope -- to good effect. There can be problems if the wind shifts.
One heavier anchor works better, much better, but two anchors is an option.
Also an option is to tie a 10# or 15# mushroom anchor to the front of the primary anchor.
All chain is NOT recommended (except that it runs through an electric windlass easier) because in storm surge conditions the chain can pull up short ("bar tight") repeatedly -- with SERIOUS G-loads, 5 to 10 G's in some bad conditions -- and break the bitt from the boat, or break the chain/shackle, or tear the anchor from the bottom. At least 30 to 50 feet of nylon snubber should ALWAYS be used to reduce the chance of anchor system breakage/breakout. Better yet is two (2) nylon snubber lines, one set "loose" by several feet as a back up in case the first chafes through.
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Maine Sail
- Posts: 839
- Joined: Feb 8th, '06, 18:30
- Location: Canadian Sailcraft 36T
Yep!! If you know the wind will stay from one direction then two anchors can work but if you swing....good luck... Also keep in mind that anchors DO NOT always set and re-set the same. The Fortress for example sets great when setting but they are often very unreliable in a re-set situation. You ideally want two anchors that would set in the same or similar distance on a swing.Joe CD MS 300 wrote:With the big tidal ranges in Maine seens like the two anchors at a 45 degree angle would foul themselves a lot.
Joe
I once watched an out of state boater, from down South where they have minimal tide/wind shifts come into the anchorage. He then proceeded to drop two anchors. Took him about 25 minutes from start to finish. He backed down hard. That night winds were light, 10-20 knots but died about 1:00 am and came up from the opposite direction. By 4:00 am it was blowing 20 again but from the opposite direction. Boat was on the rocks in the morning anchors fouled in one another...
This boat also had two anchors out and they looked like a little girls pigtail braid by the time it hit the beach. You can even see the Danforth under the boat. The other anchor was a 45 Pound CQR.
The best option for Maine, at least for me, is one very good anchor of suitable size for winds up to 60 knots. Considering I've tested 50-55+ multiple times the 60 number is fairly safe for Maine summers.
As Dean and I have discussed before a 22 Bruce is undersized for his boat.. The Fortress is a storm anchor for his boat provided you don't swing and need to relay on it re-setting.
I would strongly caution anyone sailing in Maine against multiple anchors with the tide and wind shifts we see.
These are typical nights..
Picture how those rodes will behave with that cookie trail...
I too anchor where big blows are almost always in tandem with wind shifts. This makes me very cautious of two anchors/rodes twisting and fouling each other, I prefer two in series.. 22lb bruce with 30 feet of chain with a 16lb bruce shackled to it's head with 10 feet of chain.
seems to work for our 25D!!!
seems to work for our 25D!!!
Randy 25D Seraph #161
Using the method I've described above, I've seen all kinds of windshifts, plus strong tidal currents, without any tripping of one anchor by the other. I know that this is almost impossible, unless you set one anchor much too close to the other. I'd be very surprised if there wasn't some other factor which explained your story.Maine Sail wrote:...That night winds were light, 10-20 knots but died about 1:00 am and came up from the opposite direction. By 4:00 am it was blowing 20 again but from the opposite direction. Boat was on the rocks in the morning anchors fouled in one another...
The usual effect of a windshift is that I wake up riding to one of the anchors in the morning. The other anchor remains set, but on a slack rode, because of the geometry of one rode being longer than the other.
Like anything else, sailors will make their own judgments, based on their own techniques, experience, and local conditions. In thirty years of cruising, my anchors have never dragged, tripped or fouled each other. I have seen plenty of cases, like we all have, where single-anchored boats get themselves into serious trouble.
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Andy Denmark
- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
From hurricane central
The NC coast is often ground zero for Atlantic hurricanes so we get lots of anchoring practice. It's usually safer to anchor out in a protected "hurricane hole" than to remain closer to anything harder than water, like piers, other boats, etc.
There's one of these hurricane holes directly in front of my house so I see lots of stuff that works and some of what doesn't. The bottom is about 2 to 3 ft of mud over clay and anchors really get dug in hard. Pulling them up after several hours of hurricane force winds brings up a huge ball of tough clay. Protection here is virtually 360 degrees with slightly more fetch (1 mile) to the east.
The successful boats use two anchors, lots of chain, chafing gear at the chocks, and long scopes (10:1 +) From my observations it's the chain that makes anchors effective, the heavier the better. Some folks use kellets, too, usually 5 lb mushroom anchors with 1/4" tethers and a big stainless U-shackle that captures the nylon rode. Nominal water depth is roughly 6 ft but the surge can easily raise this up another 8 ft.
I use a 22# Bruce and a 15# Danforth, each with 30 ft of 3/8" chain, There's 110 ft of 3/4" Nylon on the Bruce and 110 ft of 5/8" on the Danforth. Neither has ever dragged without resetting. Anchors fouling one another is not a factor as they are buried deep in the mud. I put a crab pot float over each anchor.
The vee formed by the anchors doesn't always end up like they are initially set but one or the other anchors drags some to equalize the strain. Once in rare awhile they end up almost in line with one another -- Isabelle and Dennis II were like this.
This method works here because bottom character, water depth and protection is excellent. Not everyone has this ideal situation and this is a big reason I selected this place to build. Never had anything of mine break loose.
FWIW
There's one of these hurricane holes directly in front of my house so I see lots of stuff that works and some of what doesn't. The bottom is about 2 to 3 ft of mud over clay and anchors really get dug in hard. Pulling them up after several hours of hurricane force winds brings up a huge ball of tough clay. Protection here is virtually 360 degrees with slightly more fetch (1 mile) to the east.
The successful boats use two anchors, lots of chain, chafing gear at the chocks, and long scopes (10:1 +) From my observations it's the chain that makes anchors effective, the heavier the better. Some folks use kellets, too, usually 5 lb mushroom anchors with 1/4" tethers and a big stainless U-shackle that captures the nylon rode. Nominal water depth is roughly 6 ft but the surge can easily raise this up another 8 ft.
I use a 22# Bruce and a 15# Danforth, each with 30 ft of 3/8" chain, There's 110 ft of 3/4" Nylon on the Bruce and 110 ft of 5/8" on the Danforth. Neither has ever dragged without resetting. Anchors fouling one another is not a factor as they are buried deep in the mud. I put a crab pot float over each anchor.
The vee formed by the anchors doesn't always end up like they are initially set but one or the other anchors drags some to equalize the strain. Once in rare awhile they end up almost in line with one another -- Isabelle and Dennis II were like this.
This method works here because bottom character, water depth and protection is excellent. Not everyone has this ideal situation and this is a big reason I selected this place to build. Never had anything of mine break loose.
FWIW
s/v Rhiannon
"In order to be old and wise, one first must have been young and stupid ...
"In order to be old and wise, one first must have been young and stupid ...
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WaywardWind
chain wt vx anchor wt
A 35# anchor with 20 ft of chain is FAR more effective than a 25# with 100 foot of chain.
A 45# anchor is even better. 55# even better yet.
*IF* there is any surge then an effective snubber MUST be used to control excessive G-loads. If one still wants weight on the rode, two or three 10# or 15# mushroon anchors hung from the middle of the rode as kellets works fine.
With an all-chain rode, storm surge can be excessive enough to tear a welded-on bitt loose from a steel sailboat.
Snubbers should be staggered so full load is on first one snubber, and if it chafes through the full load goes on the back up snubber, and maybe the third snubber in extreme conditions.
All chain in a storm is not prudent seamanship, though some sailor "luck out".
Best use of an all-chain rode is for electric windlasses in light air conditions.
A 45# anchor is even better. 55# even better yet.
*IF* there is any surge then an effective snubber MUST be used to control excessive G-loads. If one still wants weight on the rode, two or three 10# or 15# mushroon anchors hung from the middle of the rode as kellets works fine.
With an all-chain rode, storm surge can be excessive enough to tear a welded-on bitt loose from a steel sailboat.
Snubbers should be staggered so full load is on first one snubber, and if it chafes through the full load goes on the back up snubber, and maybe the third snubber in extreme conditions.
All chain in a storm is not prudent seamanship, though some sailor "luck out".
Best use of an all-chain rode is for electric windlasses in light air conditions.
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John Danicic
- Posts: 594
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:30
- Location: CD 36 - Mariah - #124 Lake Superior
- Contact:
Rubber line snubber
Chain Snubbers.
Does anyone have an opinion about of adding one of these rubber mooring line snubbers to a nylon line snubber for all chain rodes?
When we anchor Mariah with her mostly chain rode, we always attach to the bow cleat a 5/8 inch, 12 foot long line via a devils claw to take up the slack from the chain running over the bowsprit. I found one of these hefty rubber line snubbers amongst the PO's lines and wonder if it would be of any help or just a cumbersome nuisance? Would it take up more shock then just plan line? What say ye?
Sail on
John Danicic
CD36 - Mariah- #124
Lake Superior- The Apostle Islands
Does anyone have an opinion about of adding one of these rubber mooring line snubbers to a nylon line snubber for all chain rodes?
When we anchor Mariah with her mostly chain rode, we always attach to the bow cleat a 5/8 inch, 12 foot long line via a devils claw to take up the slack from the chain running over the bowsprit. I found one of these hefty rubber line snubbers amongst the PO's lines and wonder if it would be of any help or just a cumbersome nuisance? Would it take up more shock then just plan line? What say ye?
Sail on
John Danicic
CD36 - Mariah- #124
Lake Superior- The Apostle Islands