CD28 #29 1975 Gudgon

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dawnhoward
Posts: 10
Joined: Feb 26th, '11, 18:54
Location: 28ft. Hull # 29
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CD28 #29 1975 Gudgon

Post by dawnhoward »

We have been working had on this poor thing. My husband pulled the Gudgon off yesterday... I have searched 100 pages this evening looking for the size of the shaft. It is so wore out it is amazing we sailed her 50 miles home! Had we know we would have trucked her to the dock.
We also need bearings, pin, & gudgon plate. Is my best location Bristol Bronze??
We appreciate any & all assistance.

Dawn & Howard
Brian2
Posts: 235
Joined: May 23rd, '05, 13:02
Location: CD 28

Post by Brian2 »

Our CD 28 has a 1" shaft. Original was bronze, but we went with stainless when we replaced the cutlass bearing.
Ken Cave
Posts: 176
Joined: Nov 6th, '10, 21:17
Location: CD 28#227
Anacortes, WA

How about the prop?

Post by Ken Cave »

I did the same thing concerning the prop shaft when I replaced it
when I bought the boat in 2000. I also replaced the two bladed prop with a three bladed prop which made a world of difference.

You need to check with a good prop shop so that they can size up the prop to the engine that you currently have on your boat.

I don't race mine, but use it on long voyages to Canada covering
over a thousand miles a year. If you plan to race yours, then you
need a feathering prop.

Ken Cave
Dragon Tale
CD 28 #227
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fenixrises
Posts: 450
Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
Location: SunShine S2 11c
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Post by fenixrises »

Hi D&H,

I suspect that your question is in regard to the lower gudgeon casting that holds the rudder at the bottom of the keel.

The pin at the bottom of the rudder on my 28 was 1" SS about 6"~8" long. It was inserted into the bottom of the rudder and was free. After I removed the rudder the pin came out of the rudder quite easily and was a good fit with no "slop".

I believe that the gudgeon was originally pinned to the bottom of the keel with copper rods. This was re-done with SS bolts that were a bit undersized. This was done to allow the gudgeon to "float" a little so that the gudgeon could be aligned to the rudder pin. The reason for all this I think is that the rudder was partially re-built.

The gudgeon casting should be available from Spartan. If not you may have to have it duplicated or re-bushed by a machine shop. Re-bushing may not be a good idea if the original casting has suffered extensive electrolisis.

There are some pics of this on my site.

http://www.sbastro.com/FeNIX/NewRudder.htm

Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
dawnhoward
Posts: 10
Joined: Feb 26th, '11, 18:54
Location: 28ft. Hull # 29
Contact:

Post by dawnhoward »

Fred
You hit the nail on the head! Electrolysis has been seen more & more
today as my husband has been digging into it. Thank you for your timely reply's.

Dawn & Howard
Howard, Dawn & "Dory"
billc
Posts: 56
Joined: Nov 28th, '10, 15:00
Location: CD25, Lippincott Lightning

Post by billc »

great post Fred. i have a 25 with similar issues. my rudder is in ok condition but is shaped like a piece of white bread. the gudgeon is also held on by SS bolts. a couple comments/questions please. what is a PO? look how thick that hull is..and no core! how did the rudder work? looks great. Thanks!
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fenixrises
Posts: 450
Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
Location: SunShine S2 11c
Contact:

Post by fenixrises »

Hi all,

PO = previous owner

New rudder worked great. Being partially balanced meant it was easy to steer with one finger.

Still out there somewhere in the gulf with new owner.

Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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