Typhoon trailer loading question

jim trandel · Post by **jim trandel** » Oct 20th, '10, 12:19

My first season with the "Second Wind" was, to say the least, very enjoyable ! But I have problems not only launching from the Triad trailer but retrieving her at the end of the season. Currently, I do not believe that the boat is properly centered / positioned on the bottom bunk as well as the hull pedestals are properly set.

Question: can I leave the boat on the trailer in this position or must I reposition it to prevent any structural or alignment issues?

Question: if I must reposition what would be the best method?

I have attached a photo for your comments:

http://www.photoshop.com/user/jtrandel6 ... lang=en_US

Captain Bumpa
(P.S. This is an endearing term that my granddaughter has named me). Very Happy

PLiberty · Post by **PLiberty** » Oct 20th, '10, 15:28

Jim - seems to me you will have to float the boat to reposition. I assume you are not happy with the keel being off center? When launching, I found that letting down the rear pads on the trailer was helpful in getting the boat to float away. When loading, you can play with the height of the forward pads. That may be what caused the keel to cant. You can also adjust the bumper on the bow for proper forward poistion on the trailer. Once the forward pads are correctly aligned, the rear pads just snug up for hauling. I would think you would want a quiet ramp to do this.

Also, you can twist the pads to get them to snug to the hull. On my Triad, the pads fit better in a certain direction.

ronkberg · Post by **ronkberg** » Oct 20th, '10, 15:42

Although it is difficult to clearly see how your Ty is sitting, it appears that she is slightly off center. Is it also slightly turned within the keel trough? I'd work to align it to the trailer and secure it there.

Last fall when I was hauled, the yard guys did not align my Ty as well as I preferred. I used a small screw jack mounted against the trailer frame and the keel, and slowly tweaked the position. Mine sits on rubber rollers and it moved very smoothly, approximately 1-2". Then I used some PTL logs to hold the boat centered as I haul her home. I remove the logs when home in order to clean and paint the hull. I re-install them to haul back for spring launch, and remove the logs so that the yard guys can put the slings under the hull properly. A log is also placed across the trailer, perpendicular to the keel, as a stopper from forward movement when hauling.

If you'd like, I can take a few photos to show you my keel secure method.

Ron

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Oct 20th, '10, 18:27

.......adding guide posts on both sides of the rear of your trailer?

When you winch the boat back onto the trailer, the guide posts help keep the hull centered to the trailer and the keel aligned with the keel trough.

They are especially handy when loading the boat back on the trailer with a cross wind.

When I winch in, the cable pulls the cutwater directly to the center of the vee support and this centers the fore part of the hull.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ler+guides

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... rch=451034

Good luck,
O J

tartansailor · Post by **tartansailor** » Oct 21st, '10, 07:54

IMHO the only critical part of trailer mounting is insuring that the rudder is not under any stress:
[img]http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/t ... 0_0297.jpg[/img]
From your photo, I see no reason for concern, assuming that If the trailer is on level ground the boat will sit without need of stand support
Now if you lower a stand and the boat follows the pad, then I agree with the above contributors on the need to reposition.

Dick

PS; that by the way is a solid SS rudder!

sharkbait · Post by **sharkbait** » Oct 21st, '10, 08:16

Not centered doesn't matter. Six inches either way is not a problem. Boat not level is another question. Lower the pads one side and raise the pads on the other. Boat should be balanced on the keel. And not setting on the rudder.

That all stainless rudder is good looking.

winthrop fisher · Post by **winthrop fisher** » Oct 21st, '10, 09:48

hey Jim and Phil.

you don't have to move the pads at all, just leave them.

go deeper into the water Phil, thats why the rubber is there so they don't move.

Win

PLiberty · Post by **PLiberty** » Oct 21st, '10, 09:58

Going deeper was not an option! I launched near high tide which I thought would be best. Got as far as I could and had to rock the boat to get her to move. Probably 'cause Win had not sailed her for so long so she was stuck!
Returned same day near low tide and was concerned, but it was easier to retrieve than launch. Floated right on. Low tide probably allowed me to back further down the ramp to deeper water. Lesson learned.

jim trandel · Post by **jim trandel** » Oct 21st, '10, 10:46

Thanks everyone for the comments.

This Sunday, I'll revisit my village ramp and ensure that I've got the trailer is straight and plumb to the water for starters. It's a three lane uncrowded ramp, so I'll plan to take my time in positioning the trailer and orientate / level the front pads as suggested.

I would appreciate ronkberg's photos of his method of keel support. I also plan to install the guide posts suggested by OJ and lower the rear hull pedestals during launch and retieval.

The screw type hull pedestals shown on Dick's boat is worthy of more investigation as my pedestals are only pipe telescoping into pipe. I would hate to have the boat fall off the trailer if I loosened the pedestals. That screw feature appears to make the level adjustments more feasible.

Thanks again for all your help. I'll get this launch / retieval thing on the first attempt next season, for sure! I'll let you know of my second attempt

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Oct 21st, '10, 11:28

Jim,

Adjustable screw pads (Poppets) will make a big improvement to your boat trailer.

See Brownell Mfg. Co.

http://www.boatstands.com/catalog/trail ... ailer-pads

They come in different lengths.

Adjustable pads can become expensive. Try e-bay and Craigs list. Google has some addresses that sell used stands.

Also, you could probably add 3/8" or 1/2" shims to either side of the keel trough to better align the keel to the trailer when retrieving.

Is the picture of the trailer that you sent in that of a Triad trailer?

Good luck,
O J

winthrop fisher · Post by **winthrop fisher** » Oct 21st, '10, 12:05

OJ you don't need shims on those trailers from traid trailers, they are custom for the typhoon and in all the years of having them i never use shims.

Phil don't use shims and Jim if your trailer came from traid you don't need that either...

OJ why are you making it harder on them, come on...
Win

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Oct 21st, '10, 13:51

winthrop fisher wrote:
OJ you don't need shims on those trailers from traid trailers, they are custom for the typhoon and in all the years of having them i never use shims.

Phil don't use shims and Jim if your trailer came from traid you don't need that either...

OJ why are you making it harder on them, come on...
Win

winthrop fisher wrote:
#1 OJ you don't need shims on those trailers from Triad trailers, they are custom for the typhoon and in all the years of having them i never use shim.

#2 Phil don't use shims and Jim if your trailer came from Triad you don't need that either...

#3OJ why are you making it harder on them, come on...
Win

#1 That is true, you don't need shims on a Triad trailer.

#2 That is also true. If your trailer came from Triad, you shouldn't need to narrow the width of the keel trough

#3 I'm not intending to make anything harder on anyone. A person made a legitimate statement and asked for thoughts from any of the readers. If you will reread the very last sentence of my previous post, you will notice that I asked if the picture that was sent in was that of a Triad trailer.

I also mentioned that he could probably add shims to the trough (if he wanted to). It is his option . It is one way to help center the keel better. Don't read anything into it that's not there.

I have several Triad trailers sitting in my yard at present. At first glance, to me, the trailer in the picture isn't a Triad. At least, it doesn't appear to be the same as a Triad as it comes from the factory. Triads have a steel channel iron for the keel support.

The address icon of PLiberty shows a picture of a Triad trailer.

Now, getting back to the original question, is the trailer in the picture a Triad, or not? That's all.

O J

jim trandel · Post by **jim trandel** » Oct 21st, '10, 21:07

My trailer is a Triad that was purchased back in 1984 with the boat. OJ and sharkbait, your comments are much appreciated as I do not know if my boat's position on the trailer will cause her harm. I will do what is needed to ensure safe trailing and problem free storage.

Removable shims as suggested by ronkberg and OJ is logical and worthy of trial and investigation.

All - appreciate your help.

Best regards
Jim Trandel

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