Como NO in Puerto Rico

[Como No Cruising]

Hi Cape Dory folks. Annie and Will are in Fajardo, Puerto Rico, having arrived yesterday, Feb. 22.

We are in Sunbay Marina awaiting the arrival of some friends who are escaping from the snow in Dallas. They will tour Puerto Rico with us and maybe take a sail with us to one of the nearby islands for a snorkeling expedition.

We left St. Martin on the 16th with light winds astern at 1500 hours for an overnight sail of about 92 Nautical miles towards St. John Virgin Islands. The mainsail was set to port and secured with a preventer. The 90% yankee jib was to starboard on the whisker pole and all was snug. As the sun was setting we were well on our way in 10 to 12 knot winds, small seas and making 5 knots. The water was gurgling pleasantly in our wake. Super, we thought; this is going to be a great overnighter. Well, sure enough the winds died off to nothing at about 2100 hours and we furled the jib, centerlined the main and cranked up the diesel. Running the old Perkins at 2200 RPM gave us 5.5 to 6 knots and a pleasant motion. Settled in for the night, watches were set for 3 hours on and 3 off. At least with the engine running we were able to leave the radar on full time and also run the watermaker. Since we had been anchored in the lagoon at St. Martin for a little more than a week we were in need of topping up the water tanks. We did not make water in the lagoon due to the extreme amount of particulate matter suspended and stirred up by the many boats.

The amount of vessel traffic between St. Martin and St. John was a surprise to us. We counted four large cruise ships going to and 3 coming from, in addition to numerous freighters, tankers and yachts. The most bizarre sight was a super yacht, ketch rigged motoring along from St. John towards St. Martin without navigation lights. Instead they had illuminated their masts with RED lights shining upwards and downwards from the spreaders. No other lights. Strange. No dramas. All vessels gave one another plenty of room.

I sleep well with Ann on watch and the engine running. The hum and the vibration put me to sleep like a lullaby. Plus I know that Ann loves to work the radar and she keeps watch like a cat ready to pounce on an unsuspecting mouse. On the other hand, I am perhaps a little more casual in my watch keeping. But, all too soon, her time was up and I was back in the cockpit and enjoying the balmy night watching the stars as well as watching for traffic.

We made Lameshur Bay St. John at 1000 hours and took a Park Service Mooring, raised our Yellow flag and secured the boat. After a large breakfast it was nap time.

We find that making single night passages are very tiring and leave us drained the following day. Usually it calls for a day of rest, a good nights sleep and we are ready to get on with things the following day. And thus we did. At 0900 Como No was underway for Cruz Bay, St. John to check into the country. No Way. The Bay was so crowded there was no place to anchor. After motoring around the bay for awhile and no vessels appeared ready to leave course was set for Christmas Cove, Greater St. James. We would check in elsewhere. Still flying our yellow flag and still not disembarking from the vessel a pleasant afternoon was spent at anchor in this delightful place.

Next morning we awakened to 15-20 knot winds and decided to head for Culebra Island, Puerto Rico. Customs has a facility there.
The mainsail was set with a deep reef and put on the preventer to port with the 90% Yankee poled to Starboard. Speed was 6-7 knots and briefly higher. Winds were 20-25 knots. Seas 3 to 5 feet. A fine bow wake was flying and so were we. Midway between St. Thomas and Culebra found Como NO out of the protection of St. Thomas Island and the seas became higher and rougher. The breeze also shifted slightly to Starboard, so the pole was taken down, the main and jib trimmed for a broad reach with several rolls taken in the jib. Speed remained at 6 to 8 knots. Lots of spray but what fun.

Approaching the island of Culebra we spotted the first bouy marking the entrance to the reefs, hardened up on starboard tack and really felt like we were flying. Close hauled, with the port rail in the water we found ourselves shooting thru the next, more narrow channel into Ensenada Honda, barrelling along in 20-25 knots of wind, close hauled, in flat water. Two miles later, still in flat water, the jib was furled and sailing only on the reefed main the vessel was turned to windward, rounding up to a stop and the anchor was let go in the turquoise waters, settling into the sand 20 feet below our keel. Great holding.

With the sails stowed and mainsail cover on we were sitting in perfectly flat water, calm and comfortable, if not just a little chilly, due to the wind chill. The wind generator was cranking in 5-10 amps and there was still enough sun to give us 5-8 amps.

Still flying our Quarantine flag we turned on the computer, set out the antenna and searched for a Wi-Fi Signal, found one and made a Skype Out call to Customs. They advised us that we did not have to check in at Culebra since we were heading into Puerto Rico the next day and were not disembarking. (It was too windy for us to launch our dinghy anyway) Besides, we were a little tired from the trip. But, I have to say that it way one fine day sail; fast and invigorating. We slept very well that night covered up to the neck with a light sheet. At times it felt like the breeze was going to blow the sheets off the bunk, but my did it feel good.

Next morning---no wind. Twenty plus miles of motoring on glassy seas to Sunbay Marina where we were met by Customs. After the necessary paperwork was done we were cleared into United States Territory and were relieved of the wonderful Pork Loin that we had purchased in St. Martin along with all our fresh fruit.

One small aside. As we pulled into our assigned berth a lady two boats down from us asked where we were from. When we told her we were from Texas she advised us that she and her husband had been neighbors in a Marina in Corpus Christi Texas with our boat. They knew the former owner. Small world.

[shavdog]

For sharing your experiences...I very much enjoy hearing and reading about someones adventure..thankyou..