Propane Fireplace, CD 27

[gvanbell]

Hi all.

We're in the early stages of refitting our sadly neglected CD 27, and one of the needs we have is a nice heat source. We sail year-round up here in the Puget Sound, and keeping The Admiral's feet warm is in everyone's best interest. Trust me.

We've settled on a propane fireplace, since we are adding propane to run the galley and the BBQ on the rail. (Though I know someone here will try to talk me out of the propane solution for safety reasons, etc. "Use CNG! Why not diesel? How about solid fuel? Use alcohol! I heart kerosene!)

Let's just assume we've made up our mind about the propane thing, you know, for argument's sake...

What I want to do is take the shelves out of the starboard side bulkhead and place a Dickinson heater in that space. It fits perfectly, has plenty of clearance, and the flue can run up behind the bulkhead in the head compartment. Perfect.

BUT, this puts the flue right where the steel bridge crosses the boat for the compression of the mast.

One: has anyone done this?

Two: should I think about cutting through that steel plate?

Three: am I wrong about that steel plate being right there?

Four: if I do cut through that steel plate, how the #$%^ do I do it?

Any and all abusive responses are welcome. Kind ones too.

-g

Don't forget to visit our blog!

http://capedory27.blogspot.com

[Shipscarver]

Great Blog!
As one who is faced with most of the same problems, and struggleling to get his 1980 CD27 ready to cruise, I salute you.
Sorry I have no answer for your steel problem.

[marilou]

It was stolen, along with the entire propane system, stove, port screens, port knobs, tools, navigation ant./receiver, etc.

I used the force 10 cozy cabin heater, which the 1" stove pipe went straight up. Mounted in the main cabin bulkhead/adjacent to head. Not a fireplace, but compact and heated the 270 great.

Do not know about the steel, (my mast is keel steped), but this installation does not effect that area.

[S/V Necessity]

I'm not sure about the CD27, but I will go on the assumption that it's similar to the CD28. The portion of the beam running fore and aft is 1/16" - 1/8" mild steel box tubing. Just guessing from memory I think it's either a 2x4 or a 2x5 box. The piece up front running athwartships is 1/4" thick mild steel welded to the end of said box tubing.

If you wanted to drill through the box tubing a simple bi-metal hole saw would do the job. And considering the load is downward on the tubing I would think a hole in the box tubing shouldn't affect the strength much, if any. Providing you steer clear of the vertical sides of the box tubing. However, in the end it's your decision to make. And of course the standard qualifier applies. "A proper naval architect should be consulted...."

[Steve Laume]

I have drilled a small hole through that steel to run mast wiring. Cape Dory certainly didn't skimp on the material! If I were faced with boring an 1&1/2" hole I would definitely go around the steel mast support structure.

The chimney for the cozy cabin heaters can be bent or angled to suit the situation. I believe they also call for a min of 2' of rise. You shouldn't have to make much of a bend to avoid the mast support.

Take a good look on deck before you decide where you want to poke through. Stand at the mast, consider where your lines wind up when you are working. The chimney cap is not all that robust on the Force 10 units. You don't want to have to worry about gushing the thing or tripping on it while you are working at the mast.

Keep those toes warm, Steve.

[Duncan]

...What I want to do is take the shelves out of the starboard side bulkhead and place a Dickinson heater in that space. It fits perfectly, has plenty of clearance, and the flue can run up behind the bulkhead in the head compartment. Perfect.

Congratulations on your 27 (with the spiral staircase, and everything - where's the chandelier?).

I haven't installed a heater in my 27 yet, but I will be. I wouldn't put a heater in the starboard "nook" though, because:
1) it's a great spot for shelves
2) it's the best bunk on the boat, and the heater might get in the way of your feet when you're using it.
3) the heater will end up being higher there.

I think that a better spot is lower, on the port bulkhead - that's where mine will go. I don't think there's a flue problem, since I've seen photos of other heaters installed there.

I'm thinking of trying to get mine down closer to the floor, where the heating will work better, and where the table leg will protect it. (This won't work if you have the later version of the table, the one that folds up on to the bulkhead).

[gvanbell]

Thanks all, for the feedback. The Admiral is impressed that so many people are so concerned about her warmth and comfort on the high seas!

Duncan: I've thought about installing on the port side, but that would require a remodel of the table. We have the version that stows up on the bulkhead. And I hate to get rid of the shelves on the starboard side, but I'm sort of out of other ideas...Also, those stairs are something else, huh? My dad gets bored and likes to build stuff. I'm not complaining.

Steve: Thanks for the info on the drilling. I need to definitively locate the steel support so I know where to locate the flue. Thinking about standing at the mast for reefing, etc is a good note, too.

All: Thanks! I'll keep the blog updated as we discover more issues and eventually start making some progress on this thing. Keep the advice coming!

-g

[Oswego John]

Scotch or mask tape some paper above and below your cabin roof. Run a strong magnet back and forth and mark where the strongest magnetic attraction is to find the steel compression beam(s) location.

Good luck,
O J

[Steve Behnke]

On our 1980 CD27 the previous owner had modified the starboard locker, and installed a tall, narrow kerosene/diesel pot burner type heater (which faces the head). It's taken some fiddling to keep it working, but it heats the boat fine.

I'm not sure any modern heaters would fit in the space though, which is pretty narrow.