Packing gland refit on rudder post of cd28 possible?

[mattlydon]

My rudder post always dribbled under power, but after changing out props to a 3 blade campbell sailor, it's ridicuous. At speed, there must be a gallon or so per minute flowing out of my rudder post.

While I normally wouldn't mind a bit of water, the other day I must have passed through an oil slick - for 10 minutes, until the cockpit was thoroughly flushed, I had NO footing in the cockpit. In the event of heavy weather, this could have been a real problem

Is it possible to refit a seal, packing gland, or whatever, to my rudder to stop this?

Matt

[Anthony P. Jeske]

Hi:
Do a search of "rudder leaks" on this site, you'll find the help you need.
Regards,
Tony

[Bill S]

The trick is to keep the post packed with grease.

Bill

[mattlydon]

I saw a post where someone mentioned using a zirc fitting to force grease into a pre-existing hole in the rudder shaft-log, but I don't have one.

A separate post mentioned installing one by drilling through the log just below the cockpit sole and tapping for a zinc.

It seems to me that if I do drill/tap, I would need to pull the rudder, which would be a horrible, on the hard, ripping out and replacing fiberglass kind of drag to do. I could TRY to drill a hole while in the water with the rudder in place, fully deflected, but getting a clean, usable hole at the business end without scarring the rudder post would seem to require some sort of wizardry....

Anyone have some experience doing this they could share?

TIA,

Matt

[Bill S]

My CD 28, with 3 blade prop and 30 hp engine, would spew water into the cockpit under power, especially in rough water. The cure was simple and I learned it from another Cape Dory sailor. Buy a can of grease (marine applications - like trailer grease) at West Marine or somewhere else. Dip finger into can and get a generous portion on finger. Shove grease into the shaft tube at the top of the tube in the cockpit. Get as much grease as you can between the tube and the shaft. This worked for me 100% of the time. It became a routine "to do" before every cruise and any time water started to enter the cockpit again. Good luck.

Bill

[Cathy Monaghan]

The stuffing box for the rudder uses the same flax packing that the stuffing box for the shaft uses (on the CD32 anyway). When was the last time you changed the flax packing? Or you may only need to turn the nut -- the same way you do the the shaft packing.


Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

[John Vigor]

Cathy, as far as I'm aware, not all Cape Dories have stuffing boxes on their rudder posts. My CD27 doesn't for a start, and I'll bet the CD28 doesn't have, either. I don't think there's a need for a stuffing box on a boat with tiller steering.

I do just as the previous poster stated. I simply force Morey's Red waterproof grease down into the tiny gap between the rudder post and the fiberglass sleeve with my thumb. It's crude and inefficient, but it works for most of the sailing season. And it's simple.

Cheers,

John V.

[Neil Gordon]

I simply force Morey's Red waterproof grease down into the tiny gap between the rudder post and the fiberglass sleeve with my thumb. It's crude and inefficient, but it works for most of the sailing season.

John,

You're not using the "Rudder Shaft Waterproof Grease Application Tool"? I'm sure they have them at all the better marine stores; probably for $19.95 and looking something like a popsicle stick.

Anyway, thanks for the grease idea, guys... I have this lifetime supply of Morey's that I use for the seacocks and it's nice to hear I can spread some of it around the rest of the boat.