Advice; CD 33 fuel tank

[Jim Evans]

Went down to the boat today (in the water on Chesapeake Bay) to clear the cover of snow, and one whiff told me something was wrong. The bilge is full of fuel, and I see fuel dripping from the lower fwd corner of the fuel tank. I don't use a float switch, and the batteries are disconnected anyway (another discussion item, perhaps) so no fuel went overboard. The tank is largely drained now, based on a sounding.

So, my questions:
1) Any advice for replacing a fuel tank on a CD33? My thoughts are to go with another aluminum tank, fiberglass the supports so no wood is in contact with the tank, and remove the engine for access.
2) Recommended tank fabricators? The closer to Annapolis, the better.
3) My engine is a '99 Yanmar 3GM30F with about 3500 hours. The PO made about 6 ICW trips before I bought her in '05. Engine runs great, but it's time for new mounts. Fresh paint in the engine bay would help, too - so that's why I'm inclined to pull the engine to accommodate the fuel tank change. Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance for the wisdom of your experience.

[Russell]

I remember reading of a few folks who had new tanks made by the origonal tank manufacturer, a quick archive search came up with this:

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... =fuel+tank

I am sure there are a few more posts in the archives about this too. It certainly seems by far the easiest way to go about a new tank.

[Neil Kozlowski]

Jim,

Sorry to hear about your problem. Here is the name of a certified to USCG Specs manufacturer in NJ. Atlantic Coastal Welding Inc. (1-800-434-8265). They advertise a 5 day turnaround.

Good Luck!

[Steve Laume]

Probably a good idea to have a couple of options. I only ever contacted Florida Tank as their sticker was right there on the original tank. Contact info is on the net and they e-mailed the prints back to me for final approval. They still have all the original drawings for the Cape Dory tanks. The new tank did come with an electrical sender instead of a mechanical gauge. It was easy to hook up a standard fuel gauge.

Since my replacement tank was slightly shorter, I had room to slip a piece of rubber door mat under the tank to elevate it up off of the plywood shelf and allow water to drain away. I believe my tank would still be fine today if it hadn't been set on an unpainted plywood surface for 20 years. This in an area where salt water could fall onto it and lay between the surfaces.

Good luck and congratulations on not discharging any fuel overboard also in discovering this problem at a time when you can deal with it without losing any sailing time.

There is always a bright side, Steve.

[Wayne Grenier]

I replaced both tanks in my CD 28-here are the potential complications-Atlantic Tank can fabricate you exact replacement tanks and ship them to you UPS-I forget who I used but I had my brother draw up a set up plans with the specs including the location and diameter of the fuel in/out and vent hoses-I had both tanks made for around $300-400 and I think it was Atlantic tank-
that is the easy part-the hard part is that the tanks were installed prior to the engine and you not be able to remove them through the seat lockers without cutting the cockpit-or using slightly smaller tanks-or removing your engine-whatever choice you decide-
I assume you have 2 tanks-thus please replace them both as they are both the same age-
try to pump out as much fuel as possible 1st as the tanks are heavy and awkward even when empty-
you might as well replace all the fuel lines as well-please fill them with fuel while you install them to eliminate air problems-
make sure there are shut off switches on the lines at the tank end-etc.
You lucked out-had your batteries been connected you would have caused an oil spill and could have found your boat on the 6 o'clock news-surrounded by booms, the coast guard and the clean harbors people-and a bill for 10-12K-so don't take the chance of replacing only one tank!
on the bright side-your new fuel tanks will have no deposits or gunk on the bottom for many many years-
I am amazed at some of the boats I look at for sale where the tanks are 30-40 years old and never been replaced-I'd say 15-20 years tops! this is a very critical maintainance item and not to be fooled with-don't be fuelish! replace your tanks the second you even think they are a problem-hook up a temporary tank if you have to -thanks-

[mike ritenour]

Before going offshore, I had to remove my tank for steam cleaning and it was a tough job.

On my 1981 - 33, we did not pull the engine, so we moved the fuel tank sideways and out the port locker. However I had to cut a section of the glassed in shelf, in the port locker ( that held the waterheater) to get it out. I later repaired the area.

Once out, you might be able to have old one repaired (making sure its steamed cleaned before cutting or welding on it) by replacing the welds or bad plate.
However its done, have a pressure/leak test performed before acceptance.

If it were my tank, and I planned to keep the boat a long while, , I'd have an inspection plate put in the top of the tank, a sump built into the tank and a separate sump drain or sump lift tube installed. I'd also put a sight gage on the forward, inboard side of the fuel tank to see the fuel level.

Good luck,
Rit

[Jim Evans]

Thank you for all the terrific suggestions and advice. It's most helpful.

I contacted Florida Tank, and they still have the drawings for the original tank, though they need info off a sticker on my tank. A replacement tank is about $350, plus freight. The replacement tank will sit on a sheet of neoprene; I agree it should never have been sitting on plywood or anything else organic.

After conferring with the yard, I'm going to pull the engine and take advantage of the opportunity to replace the mounts and other work that was obstructed by the engine.

I've come to conclude that it's only a matter of time before all of our aluminum tanks will eventually leak, without warning. Given the installation techniques of our tanks on a plywood base only promotes deterioration of the tank over time. I am fortunate that no fuel went overboard; I think most folks leave their boats with bilge pumps activated with a float, which would create a real (and expensive) mess if the fuel tank decides he's had enough. After seeing my fuel tank fail, I strongly urge CDers' to remove and inspect their aluminum fuel tanks before they too fail - especially if the tank is over 25 years old or so. While the tank is out, the base can be insulated with neoprene or something similar to keep the tank from remaining in contact with organic material.

I have a lot of diesel to clean up out of my bilges. I've read that Calgon water softener is very effective at removing residual diesel. I also read in the new issue of DYI-Boat magazine that a mixture of white vinegar, dish detergent, and water is also very effective. I'm certainly well aware of the lingering effects of spilled diesel, so I hope these clean-up tips are effective.

Will keep you all posted. But in the meantime, I really think it's worth taking a close look at your aluminum fuel tanks - especially the older tanks. These things can go at any time!