I have a nice CD-27 that I like very much, however keeping up with the teak is getting to be too much for me. I was trying to think of a less labor intensive of protecting the teak before it is sanded away and needs to be replaced.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I was thinking of painting the trim with a brown paint that would, at a distance anyway, look like the color of teak.
painting teak
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 21:02
- Location: '83 CD-27 Whisper, Stuart, Fl.Wayne
painting teak
Wayne
That thought has crossed my mind too.....
but there is just no way I could paint over teak.
I'll get a lot of disagreements on this board but I have been satisfied with Cetol. Sure is a lot easier and I get a lot of compliments.
I did have a friend that painted over a toe rail. He first built up several coats of varnish then sanded, primed, and painted.
His thought was by doing this the paint would not soak into the wood and it would be easier to return to varnish if he decided to. Say around the time he decided to sell the boat!!!!
Gary
I'll get a lot of disagreements on this board but I have been satisfied with Cetol. Sure is a lot easier and I get a lot of compliments.
I did have a friend that painted over a toe rail. He first built up several coats of varnish then sanded, primed, and painted.
His thought was by doing this the paint would not soak into the wood and it would be easier to return to varnish if he decided to. Say around the time he decided to sell the boat!!!!
Gary
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- Posts: 80
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 13:47
- Location: Past owner of '71 and '73 CD Typhoon; '83 CD22D. Current owner of M/V ATEA IV, 21' lobster boat.
I would not recommend painting teak but that is just my opinion. I have had good luck with Cetol for many years and will continue to use it. You would be better off to do nothing to do the teak than to paint it. A number of CD owners let their teak weather (unfinished) to a driftwood gray. I.M.H.O., this looks better than painted teak.
Jim
Jim
I have to join in on the weathered look, especially for the toe rail and rub rail. Jeez, if I varnished the rub rail, I never want to leave the slip since usually use it as it's named when docking again... unless, of course, the pilings are concrete!
I like to to keep the cockpit area varnished, but I'm real bad about keeping it maintained. Probably too much of that "must go sailing" gene and not enough of the "must always look pretty" gene I reckon!
-michael
I like to to keep the cockpit area varnished, but I'm real bad about keeping it maintained. Probably too much of that "must go sailing" gene and not enough of the "must always look pretty" gene I reckon!
-michael
-michael & Toni CDSOA #789
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
No shirt + No shorts = No problem!
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
No shirt + No shorts = No problem!
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- Posts: 1470
- Joined: Jan 21st, '06, 01:23
- Location: Cape Dory 36 IMAGINE Laurel, Mississippi
Cetol as paint
Wayne,
The original, "muddy" Cetol is essentially paint. It is heavily pigmented. If you apply a few coats more than the recommended number, it will be opaque. This would provide a plain but long-lasting finish, and should be reversible. Even if you do decide to use actual paint, you will need a "tie-coat" of some sort (varnish or Cetol would do) because regular paints just won't stick directly to teak.
The original, "muddy" Cetol is essentially paint. It is heavily pigmented. If you apply a few coats more than the recommended number, it will be opaque. This would provide a plain but long-lasting finish, and should be reversible. Even if you do decide to use actual paint, you will need a "tie-coat" of some sort (varnish or Cetol would do) because regular paints just won't stick directly to teak.
Regards,
Troy Scott
Troy Scott