Starter Removal MD7A

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Carl Thunberg
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Starter Removal MD7A

Post by Carl Thunberg »

After climbing in through the cockpit locker and crawling on my belly down to the back side of the engine to remove the starter on my Volvo MD7A, I was confronted with this remarkable piece of engineering. Does anyone have any clue how I'm supposed to remove the bolt on the left side of the starter motor? The gear teeth on the flywheel project above the bolt head, so there's no way to back this bolt off. I can't swing a wrench on the nut on the back side because there's no room to swing. I can grip it, but that's it. I'm really hoping I don't have to remove the flywheel. :( I'm hoping there's some trick to this that eludes me.

By the way, I've already replaced the starter battery cable, and the ground cable to the engine block. The starter really is dead.

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Mitch F
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Post by Mitch F »

Hi Carl -
I went through this same exercise in frustration last summer. My inelegant solution was to use the open end of a standard crescent wrench with a slightly offset handle which allowed me to make a 1/12th turn, flip the wrench over to make another 1/12th turn, flip it over again, etc. It felt like it took hours to get the one bolt out of there. The hole is big enough that once the nut is off the bolt will clear the teeth on the flywheel, though it looks like it shouldn't. Its not an easy process but it can be done without removing the flywheel. You might as well make yourself comfortable down there because it might take a while.
It shouldn't be difficult to find someone to rebuild the starter if necessary once you have it out. Remember: fuel shutoff first and then key!
darmoose
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Location: 1979 CD30K, hull#122
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Post by darmoose »

carl,

i did this several years ago, the same way mitch describes. the only thing i can add is that the shorter the open end wrench is the more you can turn it. i think i even cut a cheap wrench handle to make it more maneuverable, if i remember right.

good luck, and stay nimble down there
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jbenagh
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Salem, MA

crowfoot wrench

Post by jbenagh »

Carl,

you might try to find a crowfoot wrench to be used with a ratchet handle, like this:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog

I've used these in automotive work. Cheap ones ($5) are available at auto parts stores or Sears and often work better as they are thinner. You're still faced with the limited angle like Mitch mentioned but you can often get 1/6 or 1/4 turn.

Good luck,

Jeff
SPIBob
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Location: CD28 #230 Zephyr, Port Isabel TX

Post by SPIBob »

Carl,

I haven't had to remove the starter on my MD7A (yet) but just looking at your picture, couldn't you get a wrench on the bolt head and turn it while holding the wrench on the nut? The bolt should just spin in place causing the nut to back off. Just a thought.

Bob
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Mitch F
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CD30K, Mere Point, Maine

Post by Mitch F »

Carl -

While you are down there groveling in the bilge and swearing at the engine, just be thankful that you don't sail a ketch and therefore don't have the added impediment of the mizzen compression post to work around.

Always looking on the bright side,

- Mitch
Carl Thunberg
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Location: CD28 Cruiser "Loon" Poorhouse Cove, ME

Keep On The Sunny Side

Post by Carl Thunberg »

Thanks, Mitch. You just put this project in a whole new light. When I start to complain about being wedged between the hull and the cockpit sole with bleeding knuckles, I can comfort myself with the knowledge that it could have been worse. Jeff, that crowfoot wrench looks like it's just what the doctor ordered. Thanks everyone!
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Neil Gordon
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Post by Neil Gordon »

Carl,

Remember to secure the lid to the locker in the UP position, so it doesn't blow closed and seal you in there for the season.
Fair winds, Neil

s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA

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Carl Thunberg
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Post Mortem Follow-Up

Post by Carl Thunberg »

I finally made it back to the boat yesterday to try out the ideas everyone provided. The crowfoot wrench worked great! The whole job took about an hour. My only complaint and warning to others is that I bought a cheap set of crowfoot wrenches at a chain auto parts store, and the crowfoot kept falling off the socket extension. That was a real pain in the butt. You get what you pay for!

Finding a shop to rebuild the starter is proving harder than I thought. In this disposable world we live in, it seems no one rebuilds starters any more. I could buy a new one, but re-building the old one just seems to be more environmentally responsible and helps support an American small business. I just need to find one.
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"The more I expand the island of my knowledge, the more I expand the shoreline of my wonder"
Sir Isaac Newton
Oswego John
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Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1

Starter Motor

Post by Oswego John »

Carl,

New and rebuilt starters cost megabucks. Those starters are brutes and seldom break down from anything serious.

I have found that 90% of the problems are poor electrical ground, worn brushes or an internal cold solder joint let go. Sometimes worn shaft bearings.

Try to look up "Electrical Motor Service" or something similar in the yellow pages. Ask them if they can give your starter a growler test.

BTW, if your setup used them, make sure that you replace any alignment and depth shims between your starter and the block. Some people don't bother to replace them and wonder why they have problems.

Good luck,
O J
Stacey
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1973 Dufour 35

Post by Stacey »

When we lived in Los Angeles I had my Volvo starter re-built by a shop that specialized in electrical repairs for commercial trucks
(18 wheelers). They were very in-expensive and quick. I had my starter back in 2 days completely re-built, that was about 10 years ago and it still works like new.
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