trailering a Typhoon
Moderator: Jim Walsh
trailering a Typhoon
I'm trailering a Typhoon from New York to Alabama next week (traveling Wednesday to Sunday). My trailer is here in Alabama and I'm making adjustments for hauling. QUESTION: Is the weight centered at around 9 feet fore-and-aft of the 18 foot 6 inch overall. Makes sense to me looking at her side view diagram, that such distribution would make her float on her lines right. Still maybe there's a buoyancy issue I don't know of that shifts it one way or the other. Obviously, this is all about plopping the boat down on the trailer so I don't have too much tongue weight, or too much tongue lift. I've looked at half a dozen pictures of Typhoons on trailers, from the internet's current crop, and find some set so that the middle of the keel shoe strikes the center of the axle plane. Which looks to me like it would heave the weight forward on the trailer. Maybe not. Thanks for any quick feedback!
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Trailering a Typhoon
Hi Sonny,
Yes, approximately 9 feet and a few inches fore/aft is about the safe distribution of the weight of a Ty (empty).
I have had good luck when trailering my tys by centering the cuddy cabin aft bulkhead over a single axle trailer, or between axles of a tandem rigged trailer. This area is a few inches aft of where the keel starts to rise upward toward the bow.
A good rule of thumb is to have a tongue weight on the ball hitch that is approximately 10% to no more than 15% of the load. Of course, the tongue weight will vary disproportionately with the length and leverage of the tongue, the distance between the axle and the hitch ball. Your rig should weigh in at slightly less than 3,000 pounds, with a tongue weight a little less than 300 pounds.
The tongue weight can be measured with a bathroom type scale and some pieces of 2"x4" lumber. You can see how this is done and also get other trailering tips at:
http://www.etrailer.com/faq_trailertowtips.aspx
Good luck on your trip.
O J
Yes, approximately 9 feet and a few inches fore/aft is about the safe distribution of the weight of a Ty (empty).
I have had good luck when trailering my tys by centering the cuddy cabin aft bulkhead over a single axle trailer, or between axles of a tandem rigged trailer. This area is a few inches aft of where the keel starts to rise upward toward the bow.
A good rule of thumb is to have a tongue weight on the ball hitch that is approximately 10% to no more than 15% of the load. Of course, the tongue weight will vary disproportionately with the length and leverage of the tongue, the distance between the axle and the hitch ball. Your rig should weigh in at slightly less than 3,000 pounds, with a tongue weight a little less than 300 pounds.
The tongue weight can be measured with a bathroom type scale and some pieces of 2"x4" lumber. You can see how this is done and also get other trailering tips at:
http://www.etrailer.com/faq_trailertowtips.aspx
Good luck on your trip.
O J
Bless your heart, as Grandma used to say, for the quick reply and tips for getting my Typhoon home. Everything you say will be put to my good use. By the way, wary of the road antics of some folks these days, I'm going to get insurance before I take off. BoatsUS quotes me around $240 a year, valuing the boat at around $4500. Does this seem like a competitive rate to you?
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Boat Insurance
Hi Sonny,
I've heard nothing bad about BoatUS insurance. Boats are their specialty. They should be okay, be in the ballpark.
Is that quote for "in the water", "over the road with emergency road service", "storage on the hard", or what does that quote cover?
My homeowners policy covers my boat while at home for about $87.00. I have a towing rider on my auto insurance policy. (Don't remember what it costs.) I also have AAA road service.
Also, read the fine print. Does it cover only the declared amount that you are paying for, or does it cover replacement cost?
Buyer Beware. No matter what happens, other slippery insurance salespersons will somehow, somewhere find a loophole.
I say don't skimp on insurance. Don't shop for a lowball price. Cover all circumstances that you are likely to be in. Especially for medical liability and property damage to others.
Insurance is a costly pain in the elbow to maintain, but it sure is nice to know that all your bases are covered when you need it. It gives you a nice warm, cozy, fuzzy feeling to have it and you'll sleep better when properly covered.
Maybe others who are "into" insurance can answer you better.
O J
I've heard nothing bad about BoatUS insurance. Boats are their specialty. They should be okay, be in the ballpark.
Is that quote for "in the water", "over the road with emergency road service", "storage on the hard", or what does that quote cover?
My homeowners policy covers my boat while at home for about $87.00. I have a towing rider on my auto insurance policy. (Don't remember what it costs.) I also have AAA road service.
Also, read the fine print. Does it cover only the declared amount that you are paying for, or does it cover replacement cost?
Buyer Beware. No matter what happens, other slippery insurance salespersons will somehow, somewhere find a loophole.
I say don't skimp on insurance. Don't shop for a lowball price. Cover all circumstances that you are likely to be in. Especially for medical liability and property damage to others.
Insurance is a costly pain in the elbow to maintain, but it sure is nice to know that all your bases are covered when you need it. It gives you a nice warm, cozy, fuzzy feeling to have it and you'll sleep better when properly covered.
Maybe others who are "into" insurance can answer you better.
O J
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Dick Villamil
- Posts: 456
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 16:42
- Location: CD Typhoon, Victoria, Essex Jct. VT
trailering a Typhoon
There was a post on this board a year or so ago that identified the balance point somewhere where the keel makes its turn up on the forward edge. I place my Ty on the trailer so that the axle is about 8" aft of the forward curvature of the keel. This gives me a nice trailerability of the Ty. I have not placed the tongue on a scale so I don't know the weight but the previous post gives some numbers. Of course it all depends on what you have inside of the Ty and where it is placed - OB motor and battery being the heavy items that could upset the balance.
Re: Trailering a Typhoon
Oswego John wrote:Hi Sonny,
Your rig should weigh in at slightly less than 3,000 pounds, with a tongue weight a little less than 300 pounds.
The tongue weight can be measured with a bathroom type scale and some pieces of 2"x4" lumber. You can see how this is done and also get other trailering tips at:
http://www.etrailer.com/faq_trailertowtips.aspx
Good luck on your trip.
O J
I'll reinforce OJ's emphasis on trailer tongue weight, among all the other factors. You should be in the ballpark to be "safe".
Good Luck
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NevisTyphoon
- Posts: 81
- Joined: Feb 22nd, '07, 22:48
- Location: 1980 Typhoon Daysailer
Hull # 47
Balance point
We lifted Combolo with a crane last week to put her on her new trailer, and she immediately started to tip forward when released. I had "guaranteed" the crane operator that this wouldn't happen, what with the 1 ton lead distributed throughout the keel. Had to strap her down until the front support could be built.
Still don't quite understand it.
Still don't quite understand it.
Chris Thompson
Nevis, West Indies
Greatness is not in where we stand, but in what direction we are moving. We must sail sometimes with the wind and sometimes against it-but sail we must, and not drift, nor lie at anchor
Oliver Wendell Holmes
Nevis, West Indies
Greatness is not in where we stand, but in what direction we are moving. We must sail sometimes with the wind and sometimes against it-but sail we must, and not drift, nor lie at anchor
Oliver Wendell Holmes
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Tipping Ty
Hi Chris,
Sorry to hear of the mishap. It's only a tempory setback. Nothing that can't be rectified.
I feel that you already know the following and that you used the term "ton of lead" as a figure of general speech. For those that aren't aware, the Ty, all three models, carry 900 lbs of lead ballast in their keels.
For all practical purposes, one could safely say that the center balance point of that ballast is approximately at the center of balance of the empty hull. Somewhere in the floorboard or sole of the Ty you will find a hatch plate. When the plate is removed, you should see an eyehook embedded into the top of the ballast. This hook is pretty darn near the balance point of the ballast as well as the centerpoint of weight of the hull. Although I don't particularly recommend the practice, some owners actually use this hook as a pick to raise their Ty.
Your EMPTY Ty shouldn't pitch foreward. Double check that the bilge is dry. When the hull leans foreward at even the slightest degree, any water in the bilge will flow forward and screw up the balance.
Stand away from the side of the hull. You will notice that there is a long, flat area of the bottom of the keel, under the aft half of the hull. This flat contour of the keel continues foreward a good half a foot or so past the center of gravity of the hull. If the hull is resting and supported on the flat section of the keel, the flat portion of the keel that is foreward of the weight centerpoint helps prevent the hull from rocking foreward.
What I do is securely fasten a stout plank,fore and aft, on top of cross members of the trailer. Note: secure this plank as one with the trailer so that it won't float away when the trailer is backed down a ramp during launching or retrieving. The plank should be long enough to extend foreward past the point where the keel curves upward toward the bow
The full weight of the hull should be supported by this plank. Any other supports should be considered as stabilizers. If the boat is going to be transported over the road at more than moderate to high speed, many trailer owners install an adjustable "Vee" support under the cutwater overhang.
This is getting longer than I had intended it to be so I will close with this last item.
Many owners customize their trailers by adding a fence (something like a toerail) on ether side of the support plank. To go a little farther, the fence is wider apart at the stern and it tapers closer together as it advances foreward. The purpose of the "fence" is to funnel, or guide, the keel into position on the plank as it is winched in, in order to center it on the trailer.
FWIW,
O J
Sorry to hear of the mishap. It's only a tempory setback. Nothing that can't be rectified.
I feel that you already know the following and that you used the term "ton of lead" as a figure of general speech. For those that aren't aware, the Ty, all three models, carry 900 lbs of lead ballast in their keels.
For all practical purposes, one could safely say that the center balance point of that ballast is approximately at the center of balance of the empty hull. Somewhere in the floorboard or sole of the Ty you will find a hatch plate. When the plate is removed, you should see an eyehook embedded into the top of the ballast. This hook is pretty darn near the balance point of the ballast as well as the centerpoint of weight of the hull. Although I don't particularly recommend the practice, some owners actually use this hook as a pick to raise their Ty.
Your EMPTY Ty shouldn't pitch foreward. Double check that the bilge is dry. When the hull leans foreward at even the slightest degree, any water in the bilge will flow forward and screw up the balance.
Stand away from the side of the hull. You will notice that there is a long, flat area of the bottom of the keel, under the aft half of the hull. This flat contour of the keel continues foreward a good half a foot or so past the center of gravity of the hull. If the hull is resting and supported on the flat section of the keel, the flat portion of the keel that is foreward of the weight centerpoint helps prevent the hull from rocking foreward.
What I do is securely fasten a stout plank,fore and aft, on top of cross members of the trailer. Note: secure this plank as one with the trailer so that it won't float away when the trailer is backed down a ramp during launching or retrieving. The plank should be long enough to extend foreward past the point where the keel curves upward toward the bow
The full weight of the hull should be supported by this plank. Any other supports should be considered as stabilizers. If the boat is going to be transported over the road at more than moderate to high speed, many trailer owners install an adjustable "Vee" support under the cutwater overhang.
This is getting longer than I had intended it to be so I will close with this last item.
Many owners customize their trailers by adding a fence (something like a toerail) on ether side of the support plank. To go a little farther, the fence is wider apart at the stern and it tapers closer together as it advances foreward. The purpose of the "fence" is to funnel, or guide, the keel into position on the plank as it is winched in, in order to center it on the trailer.
FWIW,
O J
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winthrop fisher
- Posts: 837
- Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 17:52
- Location: Typhoon Wk 75 "Easy Rider" &
cd 22 "Easy Rider Sr" 84
hi
well i have pulled my typhoon & cd22,
around trip for eleven years, twice a year.
from kansas city to clear lake texas 14 to 16 hours drive one way with a v6 and it does just fine.
but then i have pulled them to the east and the west coast.
single axle moves allot more on the road on windy days,
then two axle and on windy days you have to go slower with both axles.
both travelers are the same for the typhoon and the cd22,
i think the 22 sits better on it, then the typhoon.
all so get brakes for the hills.
winthrop
around trip for eleven years, twice a year.
from kansas city to clear lake texas 14 to 16 hours drive one way with a v6 and it does just fine.
but then i have pulled them to the east and the west coast.
single axle moves allot more on the road on windy days,
then two axle and on windy days you have to go slower with both axles.
both travelers are the same for the typhoon and the cd22,
i think the 22 sits better on it, then the typhoon.
all so get brakes for the hills.
winthrop
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NevisTyphoon
- Posts: 81
- Joined: Feb 22nd, '07, 22:48
- Location: 1980 Typhoon Daysailer
Hull # 47
TipsyTy
Thanks, OJ. I think my trailer is set up just as you describe. The bilge plug is out, so it should be dry. I just went up the road to take a picture of the set-up. Let's see if this works embedding a pic...
Since putting her on the trailer, we added the supports, so she shouldn't tip anymore. Still don't know why she did, though.
And to head off other comments on the trailer, she'll never have to be transported further than 5 miles, or at speeds greater than 25 MPH. It's just to take her in and out for hurricane season. And those white things on the sides are PVC pipe wrapped around the steel supports. And yes, it looks like it's painted with the same paint as the bottom but it's not
You can see, OJ, that we still need to bottom-paint the rudder. Had to shave it down a bit along the post for it to swivel free, and shave a little off the top so we could take it in and out without removing the bottom bracket. Otherwise, looks good, no?
Teak starts tomorrow, later in the week will rig her on the hard to make sure everything fits. In theory should be able to launch end of this week!
Since that worked, here's a pic to remind me how I found her.
Best Regards,
Since putting her on the trailer, we added the supports, so she shouldn't tip anymore. Still don't know why she did, though.
And to head off other comments on the trailer, she'll never have to be transported further than 5 miles, or at speeds greater than 25 MPH. It's just to take her in and out for hurricane season. And those white things on the sides are PVC pipe wrapped around the steel supports. And yes, it looks like it's painted with the same paint as the bottom but it's not
You can see, OJ, that we still need to bottom-paint the rudder. Had to shave it down a bit along the post for it to swivel free, and shave a little off the top so we could take it in and out without removing the bottom bracket. Otherwise, looks good, no?
Teak starts tomorrow, later in the week will rig her on the hard to make sure everything fits. In theory should be able to launch end of this week!
Since that worked, here's a pic to remind me how I found her.
Best Regards,
Chris Thompson
Nevis, West Indies
Greatness is not in where we stand, but in what direction we are moving. We must sail sometimes with the wind and sometimes against it-but sail we must, and not drift, nor lie at anchor
Oliver Wendell Holmes
Nevis, West Indies
Greatness is not in where we stand, but in what direction we are moving. We must sail sometimes with the wind and sometimes against it-but sail we must, and not drift, nor lie at anchor
Oliver Wendell Holmes