Painting the boom

rschattman · Post by **rschattman** » Nov 2nd, '07, 09:35

I am looking for suggestions regarding best products to use to repaint the boom. Recommendations re: methods are also welcome. Thnaks - Richard

Anthony P. Jeske · Post by **Anthony P. Jeske** » Nov 2nd, '07, 10:25

Hi Richard:
Here's what I did:
First I removed all hardware from the boom; cleats, blocks. etc. including the end caps. You may find serious corrosion where the stainless fasteners contacted the aluminum boom. This may require you to slightly relocate affected fittings. If so, I recommend you drill and tap for the new fasteners. Do not use sheet metal screws or pop rivets.
I lightly sanded the boom prior to painting. You most likely will have areas of corrosion where the boom aluminum has turned to a white powdery substance. I treated these areas with Duro "Aluminum Jelly", a cleaner and brightener that will deoxidize those areas.
I primed the boom with Rustoleum Latex Aluminum Primer. Using a primer specifically formulated for aluminum will insure a long lasting top coat.
I used a teeny sponge rubber paint roller to apply the top coat. I used regular exterior enamel, not "marine" paint.
Reinstall the fasteners, using "Tef-Gel" or equivalent to prevent future corrosion. Any leftover holes due to relocation or previous owner modifications can be neatly filled with all aluminum Pop rivets.
Stand back and admire your work!
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD-28 #365
NO REGRETS
San Diego

Ben Thomas · Post by **Ben Thomas** » Nov 3rd, '07, 12:21

I pretty much followed Tonys prep work. The difference.. I had both the staysail boom & Main boom powder coated aong with the binnacle. Ben

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » Nov 4th, '07, 07:06

We did a similar thing to Tony except I used Tempo brand Zinc Chromate primer made for outboards. We used Rustoleum Gray paint for the top coats. So far it has held up well for 4 years and I expect it will hold up for another 4 at least.

Matt Cawthorne · Post by **Matt Cawthorne** » Nov 4th, '07, 22:42

I removed the hardware, sandblasted the booms and used interlux products (primewash metal primer, and white interthane 2 part polyurethane). Six years and it looks very good.

Matt

John Vigor · Post by **John Vigor** » Nov 4th, '07, 23:17

Matt Cawthorne wrote:I removed the hardware, sandblasted the booms and used interlux products (primewash metal primer, and white interthane 2 part polyurethane). Six years and it looks very good.

Matt

Matt, I did exactly the same with several aluminum masts and booms, except that I wet-sanded by hand to start with. I brush-painted the white Interthane and it looked absolutely superb. It is as hard as nails and very resistant to knocks and chipping. I think it's there for the life of the spar.

Incidentally, while I was working with Interthane (now known as Perfection) I rubbed down my soft plastic deck ventilation cowls and gave them two coats of Interthane. They have looked brand-new for years. Rain still beads on them and they shine brilliantly.

Cheers,

John Vigor

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Nov 5th, '07, 08:17

I used the Interlx program on my spars also.......prime wash, epoxy coat primer and perfection top coat........came out very nice and has held up well for 3 years. I sprayed it on. I think it's important to wash/wipe down between steps with solvent. I like Perfection and find it fairly easy to work with compared to other 2 part systems........I wish there were more choices of color to choose from.
John V. That's intriguing painting your cowls , did you prime. I have never been pleased with the looks of mine.....seems that it takes no time after I sine them up -- they look like hell again.
________
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John Vigor · Post by **John Vigor** » Nov 5th, '07, 18:36

Ron Musk wrote: John V. That's intriguing, painting your cowls , did you prime. I have never been pleased with the looks of mine.....seems that it takes no time after I shine them up -- they look like hell again.

Yes Ron, I got fed up with cowls that looked like they were suffering from the dreaded lurgy. They always seemed to turn yellowl, dirty, and sticky after a couple of years out in the open.

I didn't prime, just cleaned them up with paint thinner to take off any oil and grease, then rubbed down with water and 400 wet-or-dry sandpaper. I let them dry thoroughly and then applied two coats of Interthane (now Perfection) by brush.

It might be a good idea to prime with epoxy undercoat, but so far I've not found it necessary. The plastic of the cowl seems to be quite compatible with twin-pack polyurethane.

I painted the insides with red boot-topping and it stays in good condition because it's fairly sheltered from the elements.

I can't tell you what pleasure it gives me to see those two cowls shining their little hearts out on the afterdeck year in and year out, impervious to ultra-violet, salt water, and seagull doo-doo.

Cheers,

John Vigor

hmeyrick · Post by **hmeyrick** » Nov 5th, '07, 20:33

John V.:

Although my poor old dad always claimed to be stricken with the dreaded lurgy from time to time, it was in vain that I scanned the medical textbooks in search of a cure. Indeed, I was beginning to harbour a suspicion that the dreaded lurgy was an entirely fictitious ailment existing only in my father's imagination. So it was like a thunderbolt from a clear blue sky to read that not only is the dreaded lurgy a real disease, but apparently it infects marine hardware in addition to aged parents! I am only too grateful to you for discovering a cure for this scourge, and next time my father complains of the dreaded lurgy, I shall paint him with Interthane (now Perfection)- as a loving son, it is the least I can do to ease his sunset years.

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Nov 5th, '07, 22:21

Hmeyrick

I'm sure that you are well aware that dad should be washed down thoroughly with liberal amounts of acetone before painting.

A little extra care with the application of masking tape in strategic areas will guarantee an A-one job that will please both of you. The question comes to mind if you plan to spray dad, or roll and tip him?

I won't dwell on the use of wet and dry #400 on dad.

Pictures would be nice.

Good luck,
O J

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Nov 6th, '07, 08:26

Thanks for that tip John V. who would have thought ? ........I'm going to go mix some paint.
________
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Lew Gresham · Post by **Lew Gresham** » Nov 6th, '07, 09:15

The first thing after all the hardware was removed. I did a good cleaning with a detergent using a scotch pad, and rinsed well. I wet sanded with 180 grit paper which was just enough to get the primer to do a better job etching the aluminum. After the sanding was done, I washed again.
I used Interlux 353/354 Vinyl-Lux Primewash ( a two part primer), and just applied a thin coat. Once the primer was dry and without sanding, I used Interlux "Interthane Plus" which that label has been discontinued. It's now Perfection as John V said. I wanted several coats for extra protection so I lightly wet sanded with 400-grit between coats, and repeated the process of cleaning with soap and water.
I had to suspend my mast and boom so they could be rotated while I painted so I split a 2x4 and put a small piece about 3' long in each end of the mast and boom and set on saw horses.
I was able to turn my mast and boom by rotating the pieces of wood making sure I kept my hands off the unpainted areas.
My spars look as if they were spray painted by the factory.
I might add I used Matterhorn White.

Good Luck!

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