CD 36 shroud

[Woody]

Anybody out there with a mid 80's CD36 with the mast down that could do me a favor? Mine is on the hard with the stick up and would not like to climb if I don't have to. I need to replace the upper shrouds this winter and need the measurements to give to the rigger. Amazing Grace is an 84. Thanking any and all in advance.........
Woody

[The Patriot]

Anybody out there with a mid 80's CD36 with the mast down that could do me a favor? Mine is on the hard with the stick up and would not like to climb if I don't have to. I need to replace the upper shrouds this winter and need the measurements to give to the rigger. Amazing Grace is an 84. Thanking any and all in advance.........
Woody

I replaced the rig a while back on my CD 28. Frankly, you may be better off letting the rigger take his own measurements. If there's a problem later with length, it won't be YOUR problem.

[Greg Kozlowski]

I concur with kerrydeare.

If you want to save some money, then remove the old uppers yourself and hand them over to the rigger for exact measurement at his shop when he puts together the new shrouds for you.

Greg

[Woody]

Both good ideas but I can't. The boat is on the hard, the stick is up and the winds up here on Lake Superior too heavy to leave it without the uppers.

[Oswego John]

Woody,

Maybe use lengths of line to make temporary shrouds to replace the regular shrouds while they're being worked on.

Good luck,
O J

[Matt Cawthorne]

I may have the original shrouds from my boat in my basement. I'll be able to check next week. If so you can decide whether you want me to measure them, and take the risk that I goof it up or whether you wish to pay to have one mailed to you. Send an email if you are interested. My hull number is 79.

Matt

[tartansailor]

You need to know your mast attachment point, either from the literature, or measure with a sextant, or subtract (1" + tang length) from your mast height.
Then:
a2+ b2 = c2 (freeking Ctrl+Shift+= failed to superscript!)

Dick

[Parfait's Provider]

Not that simple since the spreaders are involved.

[Steve Laume]

This is making my head hurt just listening to all of this. I like most of OJ's ideas and this time he seems dead on. If you are not planning to pull the mast, then head on up there tie some lines to the spinnaker crane or something and tension away with the sheet winches. That should surely hold things in place until you get both shrouds down. You could then hand them both to the rigger and have a new set made up right the first time. Once you are back up the well supported mast and after you have replaced and tensioned the new shrouds you could remove the temporary supports and be done up there. I think I could be up the mast and have things squared away long before I could mathematically figure out the wrong lengths and have to climb the mast a few times anyway. I would never trust the lengths from another boat as it seems like Cape Dory had a habit of making little changes all along the way. I hate to do things twice, Steve.

[Neil Gordon]

You need to know your mast attachment point, either from the literature, or measure with a sextant, or subtract (1" + tang length) from your mast height.
Then:
a2+ b2 = c2 (freeking Ctrl+Shift+= failed to superscript!)

Dick

I like the sextant idea, except whenever I try, my results are plus or minus five miles or so.

Seriously, from deck level, how much sextant error would it take to change the shroud length by an inch?

[Woody]

Ok, ok, ok, I give up. A friend has a bucket truck and he will haul my fat butt up and down. My problem is I am on Lake Superior now. I winter in Florida ( I know, tough life) and the rigger is down there. I think you guys are right, measure my own and not somebody else's. I would have thought though that a boat from the mid eighties and with about six inches of thread on the bottom, I could have gotten a way with it. I do THANK you one and all for your feedback........
Woody

[tartansailor]

Hi Neil,
I'm guessing that Woody's mast is 432" off the deck, and he has 240" to his stern eye level at the deck.
Then:
Arc tan 432/240 is 60°56.7'
Arc tan 431/240 is 60°53.2'

I get 3&1/2 min arc for a 1" error.

Assuming that Woody's spreaders are flush, than we need to calculate 2 triangles, as has been pointed out.

If I were in Woody's shoes, I would look at Sta-Lok or Norseman. Cut the wire long and cut to fit on site.

Dick

[bottomscraper]

You could just go with mechanical fittings, Sta-Lok, Norseman, HiMod or Quick Attach. To save some money you could use swage fittings on the uppers and have the wires cut a bit long. Someplace I have my notes from when we replaced the rigging on Mahalo but I haven't been able to find them. The measurements in the owners manual were close but not exact. If you go with mechanical fittings and order a foot extra wire for each one I think you would be all set. Personally I would not trust using measurements from another boat anyway.


My Installing Sta-Lok Page

[Troy Scott]

Woody,

Please accept my apology for being so tardy with this information. My plate has been very full.

My upper shrouds measure 41’ 3 and 5/8” from the upper tip to the bottom of turnbuckle thread, turnbuckle not included. That’s 41 feet, three whole inches, and another 5/8ths of an inch. I hope this helps.

Regards,
Troy