Dinghy towing problems

[Pete S]

Any advise recommendations would be appreciated. I've already researched the archives and am planning on experimenting the funnel technique.
I found a great 9 6","Peapod" style,fiberglass lapstrake sailing dinghy with teak seats and trim. It rows wonderfully and is quite the looker.
Unfortunately, I have discovered it to be very difficult to tow in a following sea. A couple weeks ago off of Woods Hole it surfed so fast and hard that it crashed full speed into the transom. At the time it was all I could do to control the boat so there was nothing I could do to stop it. The damage was minimal and I made it back without further incident, although my head was on a swivel turning around to watch it.
I'm reluctant to give up on it but I don't have the luxury of having an in harbor dinghy and and under way dinghy.

[Oswego John]

Pete,

Maybe try using a longer towing line. Experiment using different lengths so the dink, when being towed, is rising up the far side of the following wave rather than surfing down the near side.

It's worth a try, maybe.
Good luck,
O J

[John Vigor]

Pete, you might want to try something even simpler than the funnel technique.

Just let her tow way aft on an extra-long painter, as professional tugmasters do with their barges. At sea, I use 75 feet of nylon for a 10-foot fiberglass dinghy, but it could be even longer. Don't use floating line. You want it to sink and create drag.

When the dinghy starts surging down a swell toward your stern, she will overrun the painter, which will shape itself into a big loop in the water at her bow and slow her down, just as the funnel does.

If you're in constant danger of being rammed from astern, the only answer is to tack downwind on alternate broad reaches, when the dinghy, which makes more leeway, will blow off to one side or another.

Another trick for better towing is to weigh down the dinghy's stern a bit, so that the bow swivels more freely when the painter tugs. This stops the dinghy from taking those hair-raising high-speed sheers off to one side and makes her follow with commendable docility. I use a spare 13-pound grapnel anchor for a weight in the dinghy stern, low down as and far aft as I can get it.

A low attachment point for the painter on the dinghy' stem also helps--even below the waterline.

I've never tried it, but some authorities recommend towing a small cone behind the dinghy as a sea anchor, thus keeping tension on the painter and holding everything nicely in place. I personally can't stand the thought of dragging a sea anchor through the water all the time. The dinghy alone robs me of half a knot.

John Vigor

[Pete S]

Thanks OJ, I have tried that. If I let it out too far, the dinghy ends up surfing out away from the boat,sometimes catching up and being along side. Granted it won't hit the boat but then it becomes a candidate for swamping or overturning. The problem is it's too efficient in the water, much faster than the Typhoon anyway.
I was thinking of trying to tow it with the sailing rudder in place next.

[Pete S]

John, right on about that. That's this weeks project. I was watching that yesterday, it is nose diving a bit.

[Len]

A little water helps also, as it always goes to the stern of the dink.
I usually forget to open the self drain devise, or the weather creeps up and I wind up with some water in the dink's bottom which causes the dink to pull on its painter, and the bow to ride high (with a forty foot painter, and ten foot swells).

[Tod Mills]

on deck, but that's kinda tough on a Ty.

<img src=http://www.htmills.com/images/TowingDory.jpg>

<img width=540 src=http://www.htmills.com/images/NC04b01-D ... redeck.jpg>

I know a number of small boat sailors who like their inflatable kayaks that can be towed in light weather or deflated and stowed in heavy. I personally am not crazy about sitting in a kayak.

[Ron Brassord]

All of the ideas mentioned are effective for different conditions. For really rough conditions. a trick I have used towing a 14 Whitehall that liked to climb aboard in a following sea was to rig a very small tire on a line tied to the stern of the dinghy and stored on the rear deck. When things got rough, the tire is tossed over and becomes a sea anchor making the dinghy behave. A little experimenting with line lengths should be done.
Good sailing Ron B

[rtbates]

I've had nothing but good luck towing dinks in real close. Close as in till the bow is pulled up slightly under the rear quarter. Generally I prefer using the leeward side. Dink just sits there and doesn't move much at all. I've used this method for an inflateable and a fold-a-bot.

[Joe Myerson]

Like Randy, I've had pretty good luck towing a dinghy in following seas on a very short painter, almost pulling the bow up against my transom trim.

When I do that, however, I put a small Styrofoam buoy on the painter. It acts as a pad.

I haven't had this problem with my Cape Dory, but my previous sailboat, a Marshall catboat, had a dent in the teak molding (is it a rubrail on the stern?) around the transom from a surfing dinghy. That was when I started using the short painter and buoy/pad.

Good luck.

--Joe

[Jim Davis]

Just slip one on the painter, pull it in close.

[mike ritenour]

I would relate towing any dink is akin to training a bad puppy. The bad puppy will always do his deed when your not looking...........

My suggestion would be to experiment with a longer towing bridle and a small stern drogue deployed off of the dink. In my experience that will cure the problems of a very good rowing dink overtaking you.

The key is to find the proper stern wave of your boat to pearch your dink on. Bear in mind that it changes under sail or motor and with the hull speed. Be prepared to adjust the length of your painter as you change modes and speed.

Once you find the correct "wave" for the dink to park itself you should be secure in the conditions your currently in. Note a change in weather or mode of transport (motor or sailing) will require a change in your "wave".

BTW, I REALLY hate charging dinks....they have scared the living be-jesus out of me!

sea u,
rit

[Chris Reinke]

Pete - I have used the funnel technique towing an 8'6"sailing dink from Onset to NY with some pretty good results. My dink is similar to the one you describe and is manufactured right in your area (Mattapoisett or Marion). I like the ability to lengthen the painter depending on the waves (we all know of the famous Buzzards bay late afternoon wind/waves). One other technique we have used in the past utilizes two 6' (6' will set inside the dink for storage) length of PVC pipe and is very useful in tight quarters like the Mattapoisett mooring field or rounding Manhattan. What we do is run each bridle line through the pvc pipe and secure them to each of my stern cleats. The painter is set to keep the dink 10' off the stern, which allows the dink to roam forward only 4' before the 6' pvc causes the painter to tighten and fend off the impending doom. This technique works great in tight areas, but I must admit we have never tried it in significant wave action.

[Dan F]

When sailing alone I tow a long floating line off the back of the dinghy, with a small oval foam float tied at the end. It helps keep the dinghy from surging forward. And the idea is, if I fall overboard, I can grab it and haul myself into the dinghy. Note: it's fairly easy to get back into the dinghy, even at good rates of speed. But over about 4.5kts, getting from the dink back to the mothership is very challenging. (Of course, you can safely rest in the dinghy until the wind dies... or the big boat engine runs out of gas... or runs aground...)