The people before me had what looked like Cetol on the teak. I neglected it for several years and it was half gone to hell, with large bare weathered grey areas. I have scrapped the remaining Cetol off using the heat gun technique and am now sanding. I am not inclined to bleach.
I read the book about how to do brightwork but I am not looking for absolute perfection. What are the implications of varnishing over very small areas of weathered grey where there were nicks or rougher grain? Will this predispose the varnish job to fail prematurely at these places?
Thanks in advance for all advice and opinions.
dickee03@rivnet.net
Varnishing the Teak
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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JOHN CHURCHILL
Re: Varnishing the Teak
i find that dish detergent and a scotchbrite pad gets the grey away with minimal effort, then flush generouslyDick Sisson wrote: The people before me had what looked like Cetol on the teak. I neglected it for several years and it was half gone to hell, with large bare weathered grey areas. I have scrapped the remaining Cetol off using the heat gun technique and am now sanding. I am not inclined to bleach.
I read the book about how to do brightwork but I am not looking for absolute perfection. What are the implications of varnishing over very small areas of weathered grey where there were nicks or rougher grain? Will this predispose the varnish job to fail prematurely at these places?
Thanks in advance for all advice and opinions.
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Mike Everett
Re: Varnishing the Teak
Having spent my last three week-ends stripping old varnish and refinishing with Armada all the brightwork on Dr. Pepper, a CD28, this is a fresh subject for me.
I agree with John Churchill -- it shouldn't be too hard to get rid of a few gray areas. I haven't tried the detergent method, but I've found that a gentle scraping with a moulding scraper (also called a cabinet scraper) followed with a bit of scotchbrite handily eliminates the gray spots. I doubt, however, if varnishing over the gray will cause the varnish to deteriorate differently. I wasn't too fussy about fine sanding on my brightwork, but I found that getting rid of gray spots was quite easy.
By the way, since your post is about "varnishing" I found that Armada (and, I assume, Cetol) are much easier to apply than varnish. Armada doesn't drip and run as varnish would, and it looks great after only two coats (I'll do a couple more later).
I believe it would have taken twice as long per coat to apply varnish. <
everett@megalink.net
I agree with John Churchill -- it shouldn't be too hard to get rid of a few gray areas. I haven't tried the detergent method, but I've found that a gentle scraping with a moulding scraper (also called a cabinet scraper) followed with a bit of scotchbrite handily eliminates the gray spots. I doubt, however, if varnishing over the gray will cause the varnish to deteriorate differently. I wasn't too fussy about fine sanding on my brightwork, but I found that getting rid of gray spots was quite easy.
By the way, since your post is about "varnishing" I found that Armada (and, I assume, Cetol) are much easier to apply than varnish. Armada doesn't drip and run as varnish would, and it looks great after only two coats (I'll do a couple more later).
I believe it would have taken twice as long per coat to apply varnish. <
everett@megalink.net