It's Launch Week here in Michigan, and once again I'm trying to do things RIGHT (well, at least better). I did several searches, and didn't turn up anyone's post re tuning the standing rig of a '30 (Cutter). I'd like to poll the '30 owners out there as to what their preferred/favorite solutions are. I would assume the fore, aft and outer shrouds (?) should be pretty taut, and perhaps the inner shrouds a bit less...?? Any logic to a differential between the fore and aft inners? I'm simply sighting up the mast and working out any bending...is there a more scientific method available?
Brainstorm@Unidial.com
CD30 Tuning
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Tom
Re: CD30 Tuning
There's some information on tuning the rigging in the CD manual. If you don't have one you can read it here on our website. Go to "Where to Look" and bring up CD 30. It sounds like you're doing it correctly, but the manual will tell you 2 inches of slack on such and such a shroud and so on. Fine tuners will undoubtedly have some further info for you.Geoff Safron wrote: It's Launch Week here in Michigan, and once again I'm trying to do things RIGHT (well, at least better). I did several searches, and didn't turn up anyone's post re tuning the standing rig of a '30 (Cutter). I'd like to poll the '30 owners out there as to what their preferred/favorite solutions are. I would assume the fore, aft and outer shrouds (?) should be pretty taut, and perhaps the inner shrouds a bit less...?? Any logic to a differential between the fore and aft inners? I'm simply sighting up the mast and working out any bending...is there a more scientific method available?
TacCambria@thegrid.net
-
D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: CD30 Tuning
Geoff,
When tuning the rig on Hanalei, I follow the manual. One important point, take her sailling after you tune! I go out in 10-15 knot winds and work to weather. Stand in front of the mast, and sight up the mast. Look for a hook to either windward or leward at the masthead. Change tacks, and repeat. Take a turn or so(it doesn't take much)on the corresponding shroud to remove the hook. Once she works to weather with a straight mast(and perpendicular to the deck), and the tension on all shrouds and stays seems right, you're done!
Now, the matter of tension is a concern. You can purchase tension guages, but the yard apes say they do it by feel. I honestly don't know what is "correct", but bar tight is definately NOT correct.
Another thing, how far into the turnbuckles should the stud threads go? On Hanalei, the studs are into the turnbuckles only enough to get the cotterpins in and a little more. I guess as long as they are in there, there's not a problem. If they were going to strip out, they would have done that long ago.
One last nugget, the yard guys said that when they unstep the rig, they only loosen the turnbuckles on one side of the rig. That way, when it is re-stepped the following spring, they only need to copy the side that wasn't loosened and VIOLA!, they're done.
Sure hope others give their opinions, I also would like to learn more.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
When tuning the rig on Hanalei, I follow the manual. One important point, take her sailling after you tune! I go out in 10-15 knot winds and work to weather. Stand in front of the mast, and sight up the mast. Look for a hook to either windward or leward at the masthead. Change tacks, and repeat. Take a turn or so(it doesn't take much)on the corresponding shroud to remove the hook. Once she works to weather with a straight mast(and perpendicular to the deck), and the tension on all shrouds and stays seems right, you're done!
Now, the matter of tension is a concern. You can purchase tension guages, but the yard apes say they do it by feel. I honestly don't know what is "correct", but bar tight is definately NOT correct.
Another thing, how far into the turnbuckles should the stud threads go? On Hanalei, the studs are into the turnbuckles only enough to get the cotterpins in and a little more. I guess as long as they are in there, there's not a problem. If they were going to strip out, they would have done that long ago.
One last nugget, the yard guys said that when they unstep the rig, they only loosen the turnbuckles on one side of the rig. That way, when it is re-stepped the following spring, they only need to copy the side that wasn't loosened and VIOLA!, they're done.
Sure hope others give their opinions, I also would like to learn more.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
-
Neil Gordon
Re: CD30 Tuning
>>I'm simply sighting up the mast and working out any bending...is there a more scientific method available?<<
If you touch the main halyard to a port side deck fitting, the mast is straight if the touch is the same on the stbd side.
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
neil@nrgordon.com
If you touch the main halyard to a port side deck fitting, the mast is straight if the touch is the same on the stbd side.
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
neil@nrgordon.com
-
Larry DeMers
Re: CD30 Tuning
Geoff and Dave,
I have developed a procedure for tuning DeLaMer over the past 9 years of taking the mast down each winter and resetting her in the spring (this weekend in fact will be the 9th time).
I remove the turnbuckles every fall,as we had a couple stolen 2 years ago. So we start from absolute ground zero. The marina 4 points the mast (ie: they attach both uppers, fore and aft stays, and call it good). I start with centering the mast side to side (fore and aft is a mostly fixed setting due to the roller furler covering the forestay turnbuckle allowing the only adjustment to be the back stay turnbuckle.
Ok, so we are working the side to side alignment. Use the main halyard to measure to identical points on either side, and *with the same pressure on the halyard for both measurments*. Adjust the upper stay turnbuckles as needed to gain this alignment.
Next is tensioning the rig. I use a Loos tension gage. Anything else is pure guesswork, and is prone to big errors. I tension the uppers to about mid-scale on the gage, in three steps. Work one side by hand until the turnbuckle is tight. Repeat for the other side with the same number of turns exactly. Measure the tension and adjust as appropriate, equally on both sides. Next sight up the mast.
Dave, here is where I differ from your suggestions. I sight up the sail track. Put your eyeball right up close as possible to the track, and sight right up the track. You will see even the slightest undulation. Adjust the aft lower stays by hand until tight, then add in some tension on the side that needs to be tightened to remove the s-curve. Eyeball the sailtrack again and verify that the mast is straight.
Now move back to the uppers, and adjust them to the the same tension by the gage. Next adjust the back stay to that same value. You might want to recheck that the mast is still centered with the halyard trick mentioned earlier. This is a double check and usually there will be no adj. necessary.
Recheck the sailtrack for that old S-Curve and take it out with the aft lowers, but let off the opposite side that needs tightening first, then tighten the same number of turns on the side needing tensioning. CHeck the tension with the gage again, and equalize all shrouds.
The uppers should be pretty close to their final values of tension by now, while the lowers are about 1/2 the way there.
Hand tighten the forward lowers equally, then tighten with a wrench and screwdriver equally until all lowers (fore and aft) reach the same values. This should be about 80% of the final settings. Hand tighten the staysail shroud, then use tools to crank it to the value of the aft lowers.
Have a beer, then sight up the mast again to check for in column-ness. CHeck fore and aft column-ness also at this point. If all is well here, then all that is left is to crank in the final numbers. If there is a bend, loosen the opposite sideof the bend a little, and tighten the appropriate side an equal amount. Check the sail track again.
Whew..by now, you are about 45 minutes into this thing, and almost done. Ok, lastly, equally tighten the uppers to a value that is mid range for that wire size (the gage has a diagram on the back side that tells you the tension that it is reading). This is for a CD30. You may want to experiment with differing end values depending on the boat size. Verify that there is no S-bend again. Then tension the lower shrouds in pairs and equally. The aft lowers should be close to the same tension as the the staysail stay. The fore and aft lowers should all have the same tension value.
Last time now..verify that the mast is straight and in column in both axis. Put in cotter pins/split rings to lock the turnbuckles in place (they definitely will and do unscrew if you sail without doing this).
Now go sailing and relaxe. Find some wind, and put her on it hard. Heeling over 10-20 deg., check that the leeward upper shroud is slightly..just slightly loose. You really don't want shock loads when you tack, so it should be just barely loose.
That's it folks. This is long winded, and subject to individual modifications as you see fit. It is the procedure I have followed with refinements made each year as the mechanics of what I need to do become clearer. The mast has always stayed in alignment for the full season, with no touchup required. But I would recommend that you wait two weeks after launching her, to allow the hull to relaxe to it's "water shape" before trying to get to the final tensioning numbers. Try a slightly smaller number for the first two weeks,then tension to the final numbers.
If there are questions about this procedure (it sounds awfully complicated, but is really only an hour job, and pretty easily understood if you think about it) please feel free to write me.
Cheers and Good Sailing All.
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~~Finally sailing Lake Superior again!~~~~~
demers@sgi.com
I have developed a procedure for tuning DeLaMer over the past 9 years of taking the mast down each winter and resetting her in the spring (this weekend in fact will be the 9th time).
I remove the turnbuckles every fall,as we had a couple stolen 2 years ago. So we start from absolute ground zero. The marina 4 points the mast (ie: they attach both uppers, fore and aft stays, and call it good). I start with centering the mast side to side (fore and aft is a mostly fixed setting due to the roller furler covering the forestay turnbuckle allowing the only adjustment to be the back stay turnbuckle.
Ok, so we are working the side to side alignment. Use the main halyard to measure to identical points on either side, and *with the same pressure on the halyard for both measurments*. Adjust the upper stay turnbuckles as needed to gain this alignment.
Next is tensioning the rig. I use a Loos tension gage. Anything else is pure guesswork, and is prone to big errors. I tension the uppers to about mid-scale on the gage, in three steps. Work one side by hand until the turnbuckle is tight. Repeat for the other side with the same number of turns exactly. Measure the tension and adjust as appropriate, equally on both sides. Next sight up the mast.
Dave, here is where I differ from your suggestions. I sight up the sail track. Put your eyeball right up close as possible to the track, and sight right up the track. You will see even the slightest undulation. Adjust the aft lower stays by hand until tight, then add in some tension on the side that needs to be tightened to remove the s-curve. Eyeball the sailtrack again and verify that the mast is straight.
Now move back to the uppers, and adjust them to the the same tension by the gage. Next adjust the back stay to that same value. You might want to recheck that the mast is still centered with the halyard trick mentioned earlier. This is a double check and usually there will be no adj. necessary.
Recheck the sailtrack for that old S-Curve and take it out with the aft lowers, but let off the opposite side that needs tightening first, then tighten the same number of turns on the side needing tensioning. CHeck the tension with the gage again, and equalize all shrouds.
The uppers should be pretty close to their final values of tension by now, while the lowers are about 1/2 the way there.
Hand tighten the forward lowers equally, then tighten with a wrench and screwdriver equally until all lowers (fore and aft) reach the same values. This should be about 80% of the final settings. Hand tighten the staysail shroud, then use tools to crank it to the value of the aft lowers.
Have a beer, then sight up the mast again to check for in column-ness. CHeck fore and aft column-ness also at this point. If all is well here, then all that is left is to crank in the final numbers. If there is a bend, loosen the opposite sideof the bend a little, and tighten the appropriate side an equal amount. Check the sail track again.
Whew..by now, you are about 45 minutes into this thing, and almost done. Ok, lastly, equally tighten the uppers to a value that is mid range for that wire size (the gage has a diagram on the back side that tells you the tension that it is reading). This is for a CD30. You may want to experiment with differing end values depending on the boat size. Verify that there is no S-bend again. Then tension the lower shrouds in pairs and equally. The aft lowers should be close to the same tension as the the staysail stay. The fore and aft lowers should all have the same tension value.
Last time now..verify that the mast is straight and in column in both axis. Put in cotter pins/split rings to lock the turnbuckles in place (they definitely will and do unscrew if you sail without doing this).
Now go sailing and relaxe. Find some wind, and put her on it hard. Heeling over 10-20 deg., check that the leeward upper shroud is slightly..just slightly loose. You really don't want shock loads when you tack, so it should be just barely loose.
That's it folks. This is long winded, and subject to individual modifications as you see fit. It is the procedure I have followed with refinements made each year as the mechanics of what I need to do become clearer. The mast has always stayed in alignment for the full season, with no touchup required. But I would recommend that you wait two weeks after launching her, to allow the hull to relaxe to it's "water shape" before trying to get to the final tensioning numbers. Try a slightly smaller number for the first two weeks,then tension to the final numbers.
If there are questions about this procedure (it sounds awfully complicated, but is really only an hour job, and pretty easily understood if you think about it) please feel free to write me.
Cheers and Good Sailing All.
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~~Finally sailing Lake Superior again!~~~~~
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Geoff,
When tuning the rig on Hanalei, I follow the manual. One important point, take her sailling after you tune! I go out in 10-15 knot winds and work to weather. Stand in front of the mast, and sight up the mast. Look for a hook to either windward or leward at the masthead. Change tacks, and repeat. Take a turn or so(it doesn't take much)on the corresponding shroud to remove the hook. Once she works to weather with a straight mast(and perpendicular to the deck), and the tension on all shrouds and stays seems right, you're done!
Now, the matter of tension is a concern. You can purchase tension guages, but the yard apes say they do it by feel. I honestly don't know what is "correct", but bar tight is definately NOT correct.
Another thing, how far into the turnbuckles should the stud threads go? On Hanalei, the studs are into the turnbuckles only enough to get the cotterpins in and a little more. I guess as long as they are in there, there's not a problem. If they were going to strip out, they would have done that long ago.
One last nugget, the yard guys said that when they unstep the rig, they only loosen the turnbuckles on one side of the rig. That way, when it is re-stepped the following spring, they only need to copy the side that wasn't loosened and VIOLA!, they're done.
Sure hope others give their opinions, I also would like to learn more.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
demers@sgi.com
-
D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: CD30 Tuning
Larry,
Thanks for the lesson. Do you think that I really should use a tension gauge? I don't want to run the risk of cracking the mast step area or any other troubles. But, so far, we haven't had a problem. Oh, one other thing, does it make any difference how far the turn buckle studs are into the turn buckle? Hanalei's are in maybe an 1/8" from the inside of the turnbuckle casting. Enough so that it is easy to get the cotter pin in.
Glad to hear she swims again, fair winds and following seas.....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
Thanks for the lesson. Do you think that I really should use a tension gauge? I don't want to run the risk of cracking the mast step area or any other troubles. But, so far, we haven't had a problem. Oh, one other thing, does it make any difference how far the turn buckle studs are into the turn buckle? Hanalei's are in maybe an 1/8" from the inside of the turnbuckle casting. Enough so that it is easy to get the cotter pin in.
Glad to hear she swims again, fair winds and following seas.....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
-
D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Larry, forgot to tell you....
Larry,
Forgot to tell you, Hanalei has a Harken roller furler and I just tensioned it last weekend. You don't need to get to the turnbuckle. If you look under the drum housing, you will see a large nut. Back it off with a wrench, you will see a washer and a lock washer above it. Lower both washers and then you will be able to turn the drum to tighten or loosen the forestay. Turn counter clockwise if looking down on the drum to tighten. Also, I have a fax of the directions for a Harken furler if you would like. I too thought that it would be very difficult to do, but it is really very easy.
Dave
Forgot to tell you, Hanalei has a Harken roller furler and I just tensioned it last weekend. You don't need to get to the turnbuckle. If you look under the drum housing, you will see a large nut. Back it off with a wrench, you will see a washer and a lock washer above it. Lower both washers and then you will be able to turn the drum to tighten or loosen the forestay. Turn counter clockwise if looking down on the drum to tighten. Also, I have a fax of the directions for a Harken furler if you would like. I too thought that it would be very difficult to do, but it is really very easy.
Dave
-
John
Loos Gauge
Larry DeMers wrote: Geoff and Dave,
I have developed a procedure for tuning DeLaMer over the past 9 years of taking the mast down each winter and resetting her in the spring (this weekend in fact will be the 9th time).
I remove the turnbuckles every fall,as we had a couple stolen 2 years ago. So we start from absolute ground zero. The marina 4 points the mast (ie: they attach both uppers, fore and aft stays, and call it good). I start with centering the mast side to side (fore and aft is a mostly fixed setting due to the roller furler covering the forestay turnbuckle allowing the only adjustment to be the back stay turnbuckle.
Ok, so we are working the side to side alignment. Use the main halyard to measure to identical points on either side, and *with the same pressure on the halyard for both measurments*. Adjust the upper stay turnbuckles as needed to gain this alignment.
Next is tensioning the rig. I use a Loos tension gage. Anything else is pure guesswork, and is prone to big errors. I tension the uppers to about mid-scale on the gage, in three steps. Work one side by hand until the turnbuckle is tight. Repeat for the other side with the same number of turns exactly. Measure the tension and adjust as appropriate, equally on both sides. Next sight up the mast.
Dave, here is where I differ from your suggestions. I sight up the sail track. Put your eyeball right up close as possible to the track, and sight right up the track. You will see even the slightest undulation. Adjust the aft lower stays by hand until tight, then add in some tension on the side that needs to be tightened to remove the s-curve. Eyeball the sailtrack again and verify that the mast is straight.
Now move back to the uppers, and adjust them to the the same tension by the gage. Next adjust the back stay to that same value. You might want to recheck that the mast is still centered with the halyard trick mentioned earlier. This is a double check and usually there will be no adj. necessary.
Recheck the sailtrack for that old S-Curve and take it out with the aft lowers, but let off the opposite side that needs tightening first, then tighten the same number of turns on the side needing tensioning. CHeck the tension with the gage again, and equalize all shrouds.
The uppers should be pretty close to their final values of tension by now, while the lowers are about 1/2 the way there.
Hand tighten the forward lowers equally, then tighten with a wrench and screwdriver equally until all lowers (fore and aft) reach the same values. This should be about 80% of the final settings. Hand tighten the staysail shroud, then use tools to crank it to the value of the aft lowers.
Have a beer, then sight up the mast again to check for in column-ness. CHeck fore and aft column-ness also at this point. If all is well here, then all that is left is to crank in the final numbers. If there is a bend, loosen the opposite sideof the bend a little, and tighten the appropriate side an equal amount. Check the sail track again.
Whew..by now, you are about 45 minutes into this thing, and almost done. Ok, lastly, equally tighten the uppers to a value that is mid range for that wire size (the gage has a diagram on the back side that tells you the tension that it is reading). This is for a CD30. You may want to experiment with differing end values depending on the boat size. Verify that there is no S-bend again. Then tension the lower shrouds in pairs and equally. The aft lowers should be close to the same tension as the the staysail stay. The fore and aft lowers should all have the same tension value.
Last time now..verify that the mast is straight and in column in both axis. Put in cotter pins/split rings to lock the turnbuckles in place (they definitely will and do unscrew if you sail without doing this).
Now go sailing and relaxe. Find some wind, and put her on it hard. Heeling over 10-20 deg., check that the leeward upper shroud is slightly..just slightly loose. You really don't want shock loads when you tack, so it should be just barely loose.
That's it folks. This is long winded, and subject to individual modifications as you see fit. It is the procedure I have followed with refinements made each year as the mechanics of what I need to do become clearer. The mast has always stayed in alignment for the full season, with no touchup required. But I would recommend that you wait two weeks after launching her, to allow the hull to relaxe to it's "water shape" before trying to get to the final tensioning numbers. Try a slightly smaller number for the first two weeks,then tension to the final numbers.
If there are questions about this procedure (it sounds awfully complicated, but is really only an hour job, and pretty easily understood if you think about it) please feel free to write me.
Cheers and Good Sailing All.
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~~Finally sailing Lake Superior again!~~~~~
Larry,your advice is very good. It is very similar to the steps we used to use in commisioning new yachts. Most importantly is the use of the Loos Gauge. There is no way an individual can possibly make an accurate guess as to proper rig tension without one. Guessing may work in a tight fix, but should never be relied on long term. I would only use cotter pins to secure turnbuckle studs. I've seen split rings that have caught on running rigging and were uncoiled and yanked from a stud. If they are taped over, then its another story. If a cotter pin is installed correctly it is quick and easy to remove to facilitate later adjustments without a lot of hassle.
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Geoff,
When tuning the rig on Hanalei, I follow the manual. One important point, take her sailling after you tune! I go out in 10-15 knot winds and work to weather. Stand in front of the mast, and sight up the mast. Look for a hook to either windward or leward at the masthead. Change tacks, and repeat. Take a turn or so(it doesn't take much)on the corresponding shroud to remove the hook. Once she works to weather with a straight mast(and perpendicular to the deck), and the tension on all shrouds and stays seems right, you're done!
Now, the matter of tension is a concern. You can purchase tension guages, but the yard apes say they do it by feel. I honestly don't know what is "correct", but bar tight is definately NOT correct.
Another thing, how far into the turnbuckles should the stud threads go? On Hanalei, the studs are into the turnbuckles only enough to get the cotterpins in and a little more. I guess as long as they are in there, there's not a problem. If they were going to strip out, they would have done that long ago.
One last nugget, the yard guys said that when they unstep the rig, they only loosen the turnbuckles on one side of the rig. That way, when it is re-stepped the following spring, they only need to copy the side that wasn't loosened and VIOLA!, they're done.
Sure hope others give their opinions, I also would like to learn more.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
-
Steve Alarcon
Re: CD30 Tuning
Geoff,
I had posted the specs for the percent of breaking strenght awhile back, but don't have them handy just now. However, I recall the numbers to be roughly 12% to 14% of breaking strenght, the Loos tension meter will provide the specs for you size standing rigging. It is true that you don't have to have a tension meter. When I took my rigging class we were taught that a correctly tensioned stay or shroud would just begin to have a musical "twang" when thumped with a rubber mallet (or your hand). That being said, it would be wise to have a rig tuned correctly, then do the "twang" thing so you know what it should sound like.
All other posts here regarding this subject are correct, but there is one aspect left out. These "at the dock" adjustments are only preliminary. After making these adjustments, take the boat out sailing in a fair breeze (10-12 Kts). Stainless streches under load! While on a beam reach, go forward and sight up the mast. Look for bowing and check the leward shrouds; they should be "just bairly" loose, not flopping. Complete your adjustments while underway, taking up the slack on the leward side, then come about and do the other. Now you have a well tuned rig!
Most importantly, don't forget to replace your cotter pins. Oh, one last thing, if you have new rigging you will want to check it again after a time.
Fair winds,
Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle
steve.alarcon@attws.com
I had posted the specs for the percent of breaking strenght awhile back, but don't have them handy just now. However, I recall the numbers to be roughly 12% to 14% of breaking strenght, the Loos tension meter will provide the specs for you size standing rigging. It is true that you don't have to have a tension meter. When I took my rigging class we were taught that a correctly tensioned stay or shroud would just begin to have a musical "twang" when thumped with a rubber mallet (or your hand). That being said, it would be wise to have a rig tuned correctly, then do the "twang" thing so you know what it should sound like.
All other posts here regarding this subject are correct, but there is one aspect left out. These "at the dock" adjustments are only preliminary. After making these adjustments, take the boat out sailing in a fair breeze (10-12 Kts). Stainless streches under load! While on a beam reach, go forward and sight up the mast. Look for bowing and check the leward shrouds; they should be "just bairly" loose, not flopping. Complete your adjustments while underway, taking up the slack on the leward side, then come about and do the other. Now you have a well tuned rig!
Most importantly, don't forget to replace your cotter pins. Oh, one last thing, if you have new rigging you will want to check it again after a time.
Fair winds,
Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle
steve.alarcon@attws.com
-
Geoff
Thanks To All; Here's My Report
Well, I got the Loos gauge, and indeed it was great to have something quantitative to go by. And my "by feel" initial settings suffered from the most common error as indicted by the Loos instruction manual, ie, too loose—by a good 30-50%. I must admit I got a bit muddled up by already having stepped the mast and gotten a straight mains'l track (albeit with different and insufficient tensions!), so my method was not as textbook-methodical as Capt. Demers'; I went back and forth stay to stay for a good two and a half hours, till finally getting equal tensions in backstay and upper shrouds, and equal lowers, AND a straight (I think) sail track...whew! Final tensions came out to top-guage index of 38 for the 1/4" cables, and 25 for the 3/16" cables. The babystay was 5/32", and thus below the threshold of the guage, so I used the guage to adjust it to two "brackets" below the 3/16". She seems strung awfully tight, but according to the Loos table, still in the 10-12% breaking-strength range. Undoubtedly, I'll get better at this! Thanks to all for your advice. Fair Winds!
Brainstorm@Unidial.com
Brainstorm@Unidial.com
-
Larry DeMers
Re: Larry, forgot to tell you....
Dave,
Thanks, but I use and love my Hood LD (Line Drive) Roller/Furler and once set, never, ever change the headsails turnbuckle position (not needed, which was my point in the article I wrote). When the rig is first tensioned, I simply start at the backstay, and take up the slack, then tension to the correct Loos gage tension setting.
You really should not have to work with the forestays tension settings once they are set up right, unless your situation is different than mine. It is a bit more difficult to get to that adjustment as you mentioned, and it is unnecessary as the same effect should be derived from the backstay adjustment, given that the whole rig *was* setup correctly before disassembly.
We did the entire rig this past Saturday in 40 minutes..I used a lower than normal setting that will work for two weeks until the boat takes on her water shape (has been in the cradle for 5 months). Then I will make a small adj. to the settings and lock them down for the season (never ever seems to change over time).
Thanks for the thoughts though Dave.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
ldemers@win.bright.net
Thanks, but I use and love my Hood LD (Line Drive) Roller/Furler and once set, never, ever change the headsails turnbuckle position (not needed, which was my point in the article I wrote). When the rig is first tensioned, I simply start at the backstay, and take up the slack, then tension to the correct Loos gage tension setting.
You really should not have to work with the forestays tension settings once they are set up right, unless your situation is different than mine. It is a bit more difficult to get to that adjustment as you mentioned, and it is unnecessary as the same effect should be derived from the backstay adjustment, given that the whole rig *was* setup correctly before disassembly.
We did the entire rig this past Saturday in 40 minutes..I used a lower than normal setting that will work for two weeks until the boat takes on her water shape (has been in the cradle for 5 months). Then I will make a small adj. to the settings and lock them down for the season (never ever seems to change over time).
Thanks for the thoughts though Dave.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Larry,
Forgot to tell you, Hanalei has a Harken roller furler and I just tensioned it last weekend. You don't need to get to the turnbuckle. If you look under the drum housing, you will see a large nut. Back it off with a wrench, you will see a washer and a lock washer above it. Lower both washers and then you will be able to turn the drum to tighten or loosen the forestay. Turn counter clockwise if looking down on the drum to tighten. Also, I have a fax of the directions for a Harken furler if you would like. I too thought that it would be very difficult to do, but it is really very easy.
Dave
ldemers@win.bright.net
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Larry DeMers
Re: CD30 Tuning
Hi Dave,
Do it..you will never regret it.
Regards,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Sailing Lake Superior...finally!
ldemers@win.bright.net
...Yes, I consider it to be basic equipment. It is very easy to have too much tension in the rig, and that simply pushes the stick down into the hull and tries to pull the ends up and over itself. They call them Banana Boats around here. You have at least two sizes of wire rope on Hanalei, and to get that tension right based on vibration or simply pull-back is really a gross measurement..and subject to large errors... and it doesn't take more than a couple turns of the turnbuckle to put in an S turn. Your point about the cracked mast step is a damn good one. I have seen that in a Coronado 30 that I almost bought a few years back. The failure allowed water infiltration which rotted the wood beam coring..biiggg bill to fix that mistake.D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Larry,
Thanks for the lesson. Do you think that I really should use a tension gauge?
Do it..you will never regret it.
...That should be fine..as long as there are threads in the window, and you have access to the cotter pin hole. Extra length doesn' t add to strength in this case.D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: I don't want to run the risk of cracking the mast step area or any :other troubles. But, so far, we haven't had a problem. Oh, one :other thing, does it make any difference how far the turn buckle :studs are into the turn buckle? Hanalei's are in maybe an 1/8" from :the inside of the turnbuckle casting. Enough so that it is easy to :get the cotter pin in.
...Same with you and Hanalei! Sure is a nice feeling, being on the water again.D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Glad to hear she swims again, fair winds and following seas.....
Regards,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Sailing Lake Superior...finally!
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
ldemers@win.bright.net