CD 28 Cutless Bearing Replacement

[Tom Vanco]

I have a 1983 (hull #360)CD 28. I think it is time to replace the cutless bearing and would like to hear from someone who has had to do this before.

I have about 1/16 of "play" between the old bearing and the shaft. Any thoughts on if that is enough to worry about. Or should I just forget about it untill I pull the boat in the fall? If not:

Can I pull the prop shaft out of the engine flange and right out of the stern tube? Or is the prop shaft pressed into the flange? If so, are there some things I should know and prepare for BEFORE I get up to the boat yard and crawl down inside the "Hole"?

My worry is getting the prop shaft out. Once I get it out, I know the drill from there on.

One of my concerns is that my manual shows two types of prop shaft assemblies. One for CD 25D's 27, & 30 and then one for the CD 28. I have a blend of the two!! Any one out there with a later model 28 see this?

Thanks,

Tom



ktvanco@juno.com

[Carl Jones]

I have a 1983 (hull #360)CD 28. I think it is time to replace the cutless bearing and would like to hear from someone who has had to do this before.

I have about 1/16 of "play" between the old bearing and the shaft. Any thoughts on if that is enough to worry about. Or should I just forget about it untill I pull the boat in the fall? If not:

Can I pull the prop shaft out of the engine flange and right out of the stern tube? Or is the prop shaft pressed into the flange? If so, are there some things I should know and prepare for BEFORE I get up to the boat yard and crawl down inside the "Hole"?

My worry is getting the prop shaft out. Once I get it out, I know the drill from there on.

One of my concerns is that my manual shows two types of prop shaft assemblies. One for CD 25D's 27, & 30 and then one for the CD 28. I have a blend of the two!! Any one out there with a later model 28 see this?

Thanks,

Tom

I don't have a 28, but just went through this on my 30. The amount of play you have does dictate replacement of the cutlass bearing. Continued use could damage the shaft.
I hired an experienced mechanic to replace mine this first time. He only charged $150. He just removed the set screws holding the shaft to the coupler. He left the coupler bolted to the transmission. Then, after removing the prop, he attached a puller to the shaft that had a sliding weight on it, and gently tapped the shaft out. Once it came out of the coupler, it came right out.
You should be able to see if your shaft is attached to the coupler with set screws (2), as mine was. If there are no set screws, then maybe it is pressed in. I can't imagine why they would do it like that though. Good luck.
Carl Jones
Spanish Eyes CD30



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