Loose Tiller

Kemah · Post by **Kemah** » Sep 14th, '06, 19:48

I've noticed that my tiller can be wiggled back and forth somewhat with no movement of the bronze fitting (the "tiller strap") that it's fastened to. Two people have looked at it with slightly different recommendations. They agree that the play comes from the fact that the two screws fastening the tiller to the bronze fitting are not snug within the tiller. That is, over time, the holes in the wood surrounding the screws in the tiller have become somewhat enlarged.

To get rid of the play, one person (representing the boatyard) recommends inserting a copper sleeve; the other, bronze bushing. The latter person also mentioned making the screw holes in the wood slightly larger to accommodate the metal insert (the first person may have also had that in mind). Is there any reason to choose one metal over another? (By the way, from the Spartan Marine Hardware website, I see that the screws are made of stainless steel.)

Also, has anyone corrected this problem in a different way? (I assume I want to keep the same size screws since the fitting has pre-drilled holes for the screws.)

Thanks!

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Sep 14th, '06, 20:31

Kemah,

I have cut 1/2" or 3/4" off the strap end of the tiller and drilled new holes of the proper size in the wood with a drill press.

I'm puzzled by how the original screw holes got enlarged???

Good luck,
O J

Kemah · Post by **Kemah** » Sep 14th, '06, 21:03

I hope I made myself clear. It's the wooden holes that have gotten enlarged, not the metal "holes" that the screws turn in. These metal holes are snug and the screws tighten well into the (starboard) "thread channels." But I think you're asking how the wooden holes got bigger. I just bought the boat, but one of the "inspectors" thought that years of use had done it. Does that make sense?

Kemah · Post by **Kemah** » Sep 14th, '06, 21:04

I hope I made myself clear. It's the wooden holes that have gotten enlarged, not the metal "holes" that the screws turn in. These metal holes are snug and the screws tighten well into the (starboard) "thread channels." But I think you're asking how the wooden holes got bigger. I just bought the boat, but one of the "inspectors" thought that years of use had done it. Does that make sense?

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Sep 14th, '06, 21:45

Hi Kemah,

Yes, you have described the problem quite clearly. I do understand that it is the holes in the wooden tiller that have become enlarged.

It is for that reason that I had suggested that you cut about 3/4" of wood off the tillerstrap end of the tiller arm and redrill fresh holes in new wood for the existing throughbolts.

Disregard my puzzlement about how the holes in the wood became enlarged. I have an idea how they got that way.

The reason that I suggested that you drill the new holes in the tiller with a drill press is that the holes have to be true and mate exactly with the holes in the tiller strap. Unless you are an expert in woodwork, it is very difficult to drill them freehand and maintain the exact bore diameter for a snug fit .

Good luck,
O J

Parfait's Provider · Post by **Parfait's Provider** » Sep 14th, '06, 22:31

Bronze is a better material for the sleeve / bushing if you choose to go that route and fitting either ought to be easy since you already have guide holes that align with the strap.

You could also fill the holes with epoxy and then redrill them on a press. You might want to drill them oversize first, just as you will have to do with the bushings.

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Sep 15th, '06, 08:38

I always try to find the simplest solution first. If the holes in the wood have worn, why not fix them? The straps cover the holes anyway so you will not see the repair. I would put some masking tape over one side and fill them with epoxy. Re drill the holes in the correct place. Give the tiller a loving treatment with multiple coats of varnish. Then bolt it back together again. The copper or bronze inserts would work but would be very difficult to get right. It would be hard to get the holes for the inserts right, trying to drill through the worn oval holes. Copper would bleed out from under the strap. Bronze would be even harder to work with. It seems like you found a great boat if this is the worst of your problems, Steve.

Duncan Maio · Post by **Duncan Maio** » Sep 15th, '06, 10:32

If the tiller can move port-to-starboard without the strap moving, it sounds like the tiller is also too narrow for the strap. This might be remedied by applying gentle pressure to the strap with the tiller removed, and then tightening the screws when the tiller is reinserted.

You may, however, need to glue shims to the sides of the tiller - I would suggest white oak or teak - to give it a snug fit.

If the slop is just up-and-down, then the problem is likely just confined to the screw holes. You could use either of the suggested approaches, although I would fill the existing holes even if you used OJ's approach (to preserve strength of the tiller), and use a filler - even sawdust - if you just epoxy and drill out the existing holes, as that will make drilling much easier than trying to drill out straight epoxy. Also, if you fill the old holes, you can offset new holes by a much shorter distance.

Another option, if the tiller is in good shape, is to have a machine shop drill out the holes in the tiller and strap, and press-fit bronze pins through the strap and tiller. The ends are peened over and ground flat; this was typical on the older CD's and is a nice look, but requires a pro to replace the tiller.

paul marko · Post by **paul marko** » Sep 17th, '06, 22:33

I redid my lose tiller on my CD 28 by filling the existing holes with epoxy and added a layer of dense fiberglass mat to each side, then redrilled the holes. This fixit has lasted 20 years and is as tight day one.

regards paul m

paul marko · Post by **paul marko** » Sep 17th, '06, 22:33

I redid my lose tiller on my CD 28 by filling the existing holes with epoxy and added a layer of dense fiberglass mat to each side, then redrilled the holes. This fixit has lasted 20 years and is as tight day one.

regards paul m

Will Wheatley · Post by **Will Wheatley** » Sep 18th, '06, 08:45

I had my tiller strap break on me one day and was fortunate to have enough equipment on board to fix a temporary set up and get home.

When the new tiller strap arrived it was slightly wider than the original because before the break it was snug but after the break there was noticeable side to side play.

I simply got some bronze washers that were small enough not to show and used them as shims between the tiller and the inner part of the tiller strap. If you get down and look closely you can see what I did but otherwise it looks just like new.

Happy Sailoring~~~~/)~~~~

The Cape Dory Board

Loose Tiller

Loose Tiller

Loose Tiller

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Loose Tiller

Bronze

Fill the holes

I used Washers