Stowing anchor follow-up
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Stowing anchor follow-up
Thank you, John, for the info,and quick response, but my boat does not have a deck pipe! That's the problem! I didn't want to drill a hole in the deck and install one, unless other alternatives are not feasible. The price for a bronze one, thru Spartan Marine is pretty steep! That's why I thought of posting this message. There are a lot of SMART people using this site!!!!
CD26LA@aol.com
CD26LA@aol.com
Re: Stowing anchor follow-up
The "deck pipe" or hawser is considered a standard upgrade for any serious sailor. Anchor rode should be immediately available to the prudent sailor especially on a vessel where the engine might have been stored and not immediately deployable. The bow stem casting having roller and chocks attached is a Spartan and Cape Dory solution to securing and anchor at the bow. This casting is only available by special order Spartan Marine at $1,000-big enchilades. What I did on Breeze,CD 22D, worked exceptional well and I actually prefer it over an anchor well. I used a CQR 35lb which rested excellently in the roller and overhung the bow with adequate clearance. The anchor must be tied to the vessel securely. This is accomplished by fashening a small block of teak something like 4''x4''but this measurement may very in size depending on individual tastes. Fasten to this block two eye straps at which to attach a short piece of line. Placement of the anchor chock is critical thus allowing the anchor to be securely fasten easily by tying a couple half hitches around the arm. The chain is then wraped aroung the bow cleat then passed down through the hawser. The line you use to secure the anchor can also be attached to the chain for eazy retrieval. I would always store the anchor in the aft lazarette on long passages or expected rough weather. The crew will appreciate having the rode accessible. Carrying an anchor to the bow is less difficult than a rode, getting a hairy devil is extremely unlikely with an anchor. The rode should be stored in the forepeak and be fastened to the vessel. To help store the rode, a good upgrade is to glue a horizontal bulkhead under the hawser. Include a lip to keep rode in place and properly flaked. Do not attach end of rode to his shelf use vessels vertical bulkhead. Use small separate line to attach end of rode, make it long enough to pull out hawser. West Marine did offer a nice bronze circular model hawse pipe. Do not forget to seal the balsa core. A good seal incorporates drilling retention holes into the exposed balsa. This creates a thicker stronger barrier against wear and tear. Don't feel it's wrong to drill a hole in a deck. Just put them in the correct place. Be courageous in your upgrades. Many happy repairs: capt. MikeLinda wrote: Thank you, John, for the info,and quick response, but my boat does not have a deck pipe! That's the problem! I didn't want to drill a hole in the deck and install one, unless other alternatives are not feasible. The price for a bronze one, thru Spartan Marine is pretty steep! That's why I thought of posting this message. There are a lot of SMART people using this site!!!!
location of the block must support the anchor arm u
mattngly@concentric.net
Re: Stowing anchor follow-up
The previous owner of our CD28, who used his ground tackle frequently, kept his rode in a plastic milk crate on the foredeck in preference to using the forward locker. This allowed the weather to rinse and dry the rode, and to keep it attached and ready for immediate use. This isn't the most attractive solution to your rode storage problem, but it might be an effective temporary fix.
everett@megalink.net
everett@megalink.net
Furling Gear
Mike
Are you still interested in getting rid of you furling sails and equipment? Please email or call and let me know ASAP.
Thanks
John
jkuehn@plls.com
Are you still interested in getting rid of you furling sails and equipment? Please email or call and let me know ASAP.
Thanks
John
jkuehn@plls.com
An idea, but not easy. What do you think ??
Even though they are traditional, I have never liked the idea of inside fore-peak lockers. (1) If you have a lot of chain rode, it puts rode weight too far forward, especially on a boat with long overhangs. (2) The dirty rode inevitably spills over into the V berth. (You never use the V berth under way, but the mud -- and sometimes smell -- stick around until cleaned.) Outside, self-draining anchor lockers solve the second problem, but not the first. And on a Cape Dory, making an outside locker requires tearing up the deck! I have toyed with the following notion for a larger boat.
(a) Glass off the forward half of the space under the V berth, creating a water-tight collision compartment. (b) Install an inspection hatch (watertight) near the foot of the V-berth, and run a PVC pipe up to the rode hawse-pipe. The collision compartment then does double duty as a rode locker, and the rode's weight is closer to the middle of the boat. The inspection port lets you attend to the movement of the rode, in case of a jam. (c) Put a spigot in the aft bulkhead of the collision compartment, with a hose running to your grey water sump. When the rode or rode locker need cleaning, just pour in a bucket or two of soapy water while under way, sail for a couple of hours, open the spigot, and pump out the grey water, leaving behind the fresh rode and locker.
It would take some work to create this arrangement, but the parts expense should not be too great. All it requires is some glass cloth, some resin, a spigot, some PVC pipe, and an inspection port. The creation of a forward collision compartment is a good safety feature. Has anyone seen anything like this? Is it sensible?
(a) Glass off the forward half of the space under the V berth, creating a water-tight collision compartment. (b) Install an inspection hatch (watertight) near the foot of the V-berth, and run a PVC pipe up to the rode hawse-pipe. The collision compartment then does double duty as a rode locker, and the rode's weight is closer to the middle of the boat. The inspection port lets you attend to the movement of the rode, in case of a jam. (c) Put a spigot in the aft bulkhead of the collision compartment, with a hose running to your grey water sump. When the rode or rode locker need cleaning, just pour in a bucket or two of soapy water while under way, sail for a couple of hours, open the spigot, and pump out the grey water, leaving behind the fresh rode and locker.
It would take some work to create this arrangement, but the parts expense should not be too great. All it requires is some glass cloth, some resin, a spigot, some PVC pipe, and an inspection port. The creation of a forward collision compartment is a good safety feature. Has anyone seen anything like this? Is it sensible?
Re: Stowing anchor follow-up
capt. Mike
RE: Use small separate line to attach end of rode, make it long enough to pull out hawser.
Why is this? Inquiring minds want to know!
Thanks
Bill
cd25d@clnk.com
RE: Use small separate line to attach end of rode, make it long enough to pull out hawser.
Why is this? Inquiring minds want to know!
Thanks
Bill
cd25d@clnk.com
Re: Stowing anchor follow-up
A separate piece of line is used to secure the rode to the bulkhead. This line will require a smaller hole drilled through the bulkhead. Most importantly is that the rode can be removed topside. In case of an emergency you do not want to have to go below to release the rode. A knife could be utilized in case of an emergency. I usually bend the line to the rode with a double sheet bend. Capt MikeBill wrote: capt. Mike
RE: Use small separate line to attach end of rode, make it long enough to pull out hawser.
Why is this? Inquiring minds want to know!
Thanks
Bill
mattngly@concentric.net