Wax - recommendations

[Bill Jarrell]

Hi All,
I just got done using 3M's one step light compound and wax. It was enough of a job that I thought I would put a protective coat of straight wax over my handiwork, while its fresh and clean, to keep me from having to revisit the compound/wax job next year.

Any recommendations? What about auto wax?

Thanks

Bill

[Maine Sail]

Collinte No. 885 Fleet Wax paste version. I used to detail mega yachts in college, while working as a mate, and this is by far the best and most durable carnuba there is as long as your not in 100 plus degree heat it is the perfect wax. I would say the second best wax we ever used was Tre-Wax. None of the liquid waxes including the mirracle waxes with "teflon" could keep the waterline from yellowing for more than two months and that was a strech. It all depends on what you want to put into it. You will get back results with compounding, polishing and waxing equal to what you put into it...

Below is a link to a very in depth thread on compounding, polishing and waxing..

http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pv ... =as&fno=21

[winthrop fisher]

star brite polish works good and gos over wax and it will last three times longer then wax.... ever time....

[JimL]

This also works with cleaning wax jobs or even polishing with fine cut cleaners.

Use a lightweight "mouse" sander with no sand paper. Instead, wrap the sander in fresh "polishing diapers" available at the auto parts stores. The velcro pad on the bottom of the sander will move the cloth pretty neatly.

You'll get wonderful cleaning, without all the arm and shoulder motion (important when laying on your side on the dock). The application is much more consistent, so the drying and polish process works better.

I can do the entire hull sides of my CD26 in 2-3 hours!

Regards, JimL

[tartansailor]

I'll support Acoustic's SOP because of the "documentation"
Now here's one:
The previous owner of my newly acquired CD-25 painted the hull with what appears to be a house paint! because the paint is alligatoring and flaking off. It looks awful
I have a variable speed random orbital sander and started with 220, but am now down to 80 grit in order to get down to the gel coat.
The question is:
What do I do after the house paint is removed?
So far the gel coat appears to be intact, but terribly faded.
Dick

[Maine Sail]

either strip the paint with a gel-coat safe liquid paint stripper or a razor blade. The razor blade is the preferred choice of professionals who have to remove Awl-Grip freequeltly. You have to have a good technique and change blades often but using 80 grit on the topsides will prety much ruin it. You can try a succession of wet sandings but my guess is that the 80 grit swirls will be to deep and you'll either need to Awl-Grip or paint with a one part epoxy which might last two to three years at best... Try wet sanding and buffing but you might find you have some holes....

[tartansailor]

Thanks, we will give it a try, but we are pretty much resigned to having to Awlgrip the hull.
Dick

[rtbates]

There is absolutely no reason to have to sand in order to remove paint. Aquastrip will remove paint and it's biodegradeable, water soluable, and harmless to gelcoat. http://www.ibacktonature.com/Pages/marine.html

I used it to remove the painted name from Seraph's transom as well as the Cetol on her teak.

Simply apply and wait and wait and wait. IE, let it do it's job and either scrub or scrap it off.

NO, it's NOT cheap but it sure does work and the fish love the residue!!

[tartansailor]

Thanks Randy.

Dick

[rtbates]

nm