anchor locker
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Mar 17th, '05, 07:54
- Location: Cape Dory 36 mariposa hull #3 Camden Maine
anchor locker
Help! We have a 1979 CD36 to replace our CD 33. The 33 has it's locker open from the deck with an external drain in the bow. Where is the 36 supposed to drain? It now drains onto the V berth and traps behind the forward tankage. What have I missed here, this can not be engineered this way.
Converting to self-bailing anchor rode locker.
I converted my CD25 by this method:
1. Install large diameter flush (round) hatch in foredeck (over rode locker).
2. Block area ahead of V-berth with duct tape (sticky side pointing forward). It takes a lot of tape, but it works. The small bulkhead with access opening will be glassed over (forward side) in the process of this modification.
3. Cut triangular plug for bottom of rode locker (I went about 6" above water line). Glue plug in place, but leave bare wood on top for fiberglass cloth/epoxy adhesion.
4. Fiberglass the compartment, working through the hatch hole (with entire ring removed). I used very thin fiberglass cloth and West epoxy resin. The lightweight cloth can be applied in small patches, many layers, and lays up easily.
5. Drill drain hole through side of hull, just above the "plug" level. Install small clamshell facing down and back at about 45 degrees (keeps waves out of hole when pounding through waves).
Be sure to dig away the balsa in the edges of the hatch hole, then fill with something like Marine Tex before remounting the hatch ring. This modification makes it easy to clear tangles in the rode locker, and provides access to the under side of the forward deck area.
Regards, JimL
1. Install large diameter flush (round) hatch in foredeck (over rode locker).
2. Block area ahead of V-berth with duct tape (sticky side pointing forward). It takes a lot of tape, but it works. The small bulkhead with access opening will be glassed over (forward side) in the process of this modification.
3. Cut triangular plug for bottom of rode locker (I went about 6" above water line). Glue plug in place, but leave bare wood on top for fiberglass cloth/epoxy adhesion.
4. Fiberglass the compartment, working through the hatch hole (with entire ring removed). I used very thin fiberglass cloth and West epoxy resin. The lightweight cloth can be applied in small patches, many layers, and lays up easily.
5. Drill drain hole through side of hull, just above the "plug" level. Install small clamshell facing down and back at about 45 degrees (keeps waves out of hole when pounding through waves).
Be sure to dig away the balsa in the edges of the hatch hole, then fill with something like Marine Tex before remounting the hatch ring. This modification makes it easy to clear tangles in the rode locker, and provides access to the under side of the forward deck area.
Regards, JimL
To the bilge
Len.
That water from the anchor compartment should drain down the inside of the hull and end up in the bilge. Perhaps not the best design but it works.
________
TOYOTA AZ ENGINE
That water from the anchor compartment should drain down the inside of the hull and end up in the bilge. Perhaps not the best design but it works.
________
TOYOTA AZ ENGINE
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:22, edited 1 time in total.
- mahalocd36
- Posts: 591
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:51
- Location: 1990 CD36 Mahalo #163
- Contact:
Re: anchor locker
Maybe they fixed this with later 36s....ours drains under the liner to the bilge.Leonard Lookner wrote: It now drains onto the V berth and traps behind the forward tankage. What have I missed here, this can not be engineered this way.
Melissa Abato
www.sailmahalo.com
www.sailmahalo.com