Typhoon Electrical System

mrudman850 · Post by **mrudman850** » May 23rd, '06, 14:21

Just bought our first sailboat - a 1978 Typhoon Weekender. I'm interested in restoring the electrical system - the rear of the panel is all rusted. Do I need to run new wires to the stern and bow fixtures or will in-line splices work? Any suggestions on buying a new panel or battery requirements. Thanks in advance as this will be the first of many questions.

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » May 23rd, '06, 16:43

mrudman (The Sundance Kid?)

What you should do is to check the condition of the electrical conductors already installed. Look for cracking insulation, exposed bare spots, frayed and/oroxidized copper at the terminals as well as the condition of the terminals

I don't like the sound of rusted electrical panels. Can the panel be wirebrushed down to sufficient bare metal? If so, maybe a prime coat of paint followed by a finish coat or two and the panel could be restored. On the other hand, if the panel is rusted through and deteriorated to the point that it simply is not worth saving, get a new one. For low voltage, 12V, some people use plastic instead of metal panels.

If you decide to install new wiring, most sailors use tinned, copper, stranded wiring. Use keyword Ancor for a good manufacturer of wire and other marine grade components.

At the risk of raising the ire of some boatowners, I will say that after checking the condition of the existing wiring and being satisfied that it is still functional beyond any doubt, I will go on record and say that I have made many wiring splices with existing wire that have held up to this day.

The way that I do (have done it, I'm well retired now) it is to clean and brighten the copper of both pieces. eliminating any trace of oxidation. Then I make a Western Union splice, apply flux and solder the joint. Before I make the splice, I slip a piece of shrink tube over one piece of wire and shrink it over the finished soldered joint. In exterior or damp locations, like the bilge, I apply a coating or two of 3M liquid insulation on top of everything.

I don't know how much nighttime sailing you'll be doing or if you use much nav instruments Do you have an alternator on your outboard motor? I don't intentionally sail much after the sun goes down. I get several seasons of power with a garden tractor size battery. My electrical power requirements are low.

Have fun. Keep us abreast of your progress.

Welcome aboard,
O J

winthrop fisher · Post by **winthrop fisher** » May 23rd, '06, 18:16

Hi....
i would put a atwood panel in first...
its east too put it in...
leave the wire that is there and see if ever thing works first and after you put the panel in first....
it will safe you money in the long run...
some times it will be fine...
if you get the last one of SCA you can see in the piture how it was done...
winthrop

mrudman850 wrote:Just bought our first sailboat - a 1978 Typhoon Weekender. I'm interested in restoring the electrical system - the rear of the panel is all rusted. Do I need to run new wires to the stern and bow fixtures or will in-line splices work? Any suggestions on buying a new panel or battery requirements. Thanks in advance as this will be the first of many questions.

Dick Villamil · Post by **Dick Villamil** » May 26th, '06, 21:13

After you inspect the wiring - spray it with a waterproofing silicone spray. I use Cyclo heavy duty Silicone Spray (from your local autoparts store). It is really good and will prevent corrosion from causing wiring problems. This is a really good material and I have used it on rusting sink drains as well as lubricating the planer table in my workshop. It has worked well on all electrical connectins on boat wiring harnesses as well as the trailer harness.

GLutzow · Post by **GLutzow** » May 29th, '06, 18:54

If you have access to a General Aviation airport purchase a product called Corrosion-X from an FBO there. I Have been using an aircraft for business, live on the Gulf, and have treated my aircraft for years with this stuff. No corrosion. Best of all you can soak your electronics and it won't mess it up.

As for my table saw, planer and joiner tables...I use Johnson's Paste Wax once a month. Again..I live in Florida and things rust here if you look at them...even if you don't for that matter. The paste wax is just the ticket and I don't have to worry about the silicone getting on the wood.

The Cape Dory Board