Replacing Teak Taffrail

[Paul D.]

I will soon be replacing the teak board that covers the port side of the top of the transom on an old typhoon (Under the motor mount). It seems the old one got smashed somehow and I was thinking of replacing all the way up to the scarph joint. Does anyone have experience with this type of job? Thanks.

Paul Danicic
Typhoon HORNET



nyeme001@tc.umn.edu

[Arnold Amenda]

I will soon be replacing the teak board that covers the port side of the top of the transom on an old typhoon (Under the motor mount). It seems the old one got smashed somehow and I was thinking of replacing all the way up to the scarph joint. Does anyone have experience with this type of job? Thanks.

Paul Danicic
Typhoon HORNET

Paul,
I will be doing a similar job on my typhoon daysailer this spring (if spring ever arrives in Seattle). I was rafted up to a taller boat and popped a chock off of the taffrail, taking a piece of teak with the chock. I plan to replace the whole taffrail. I think that replacing one-half may not be structurally as good and will always look patched. I hope you are finished before I am so that you can give me pointers.
Arnold



aamenda@ix.netcom.com

[cyrus jordan]

I'm in the process of replacing all the brightwork on a '74 Typhoon. I've got a wood shop so it's not too big a deal. I'll tell you how I'm going to do it; anyone with a shaper could be asked to do it for you. Teak goes for about $7.50 a board foot last time I bought any.

The original is constructed from two separate pieces scarfed together at an angle in the middle (this limits the width of the piece necessary to cover the entire curve). If you give the old one to someone with a shaper, they can use it as a template to cut you a new one. The new piece will be rough cut with a band saw and them finished using a rub bearing and a straight cutter on a shaper.

You could do it yourself with hand tools pretty well. The only trick is scarfing the middle joint; this is actually pretty easy to do with a hand plane. There are a thousand different ways of doing it; look in WoodenBoat magazine for an article on the topic. A few years ago, there was a series on building "beachpea" by doug hylan; his description of scarfing is easy to follow. I built a peapod using the magazine series. You'll have to think abit first about the setup because of the angled scarf (the scarfs for the peapod weren't angled.) Get some pine to practice on before you try the teak.

I am still debating what type of bedding compound to use on the brightwork. Got any suggestions?

cy jordan



cjordan@together.net

[Mark Guinan]

I'm in the process of replacing all the brightwork on a '74 Typhoon. I've got a wood shop so it's not too big a deal. I'll tell you how I'm going to do it; anyone with a shaper could be asked to do it for you. Teak goes for about $7.50 a board foot last time I bought any.

The original is constructed from two separate pieces scarfed together at an angle in the middle (this limits the width of the piece necessary to cover the entire curve). If you give the old one to someone with a shaper, they can use it as a template to cut you a new one. The new piece will be rough cut with a band saw and them finished using a rub bearing and a straight cutter on a shaper.

You could do it yourself with hand tools pretty well. The only trick is scarfing the middle joint; this is actually pretty easy to do with a hand plane. There are a thousand different ways of doing it; look in WoodenBoat magazine for an article on the topic. A few years ago, there was a series on building "beachpea" by doug hylan; his description of scarfing is easy to follow. I built a peapod using the magazine series. You'll have to think abit first about the setup because of the angled scarf (the scarfs for the peapod weren't angled.) Get some pine to practice on before you try the teak.

I am still debating what type of bedding compound to use on the brightwork. Got any suggestions?

cy jordan

I would appreciate any tips you might have on your project...seems we are doing the same. I am having a real hard time locating any teak locally, especially wider pieces for things like the coamings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[cyrus jordan]

I would appreciate any tips you might have on your project...seems we are doing the same. I am having a real hard time locating any teak locally, especially wider pieces for things like the coamings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I get my wood from Maine Coast Lumber in Berwick. They have an 800 number. They deliver without charge for orders > $200 in New England.

cy jordan



cjordan@together.net