Backstay attachment on CDs

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Joe Butler

Backstay attachment on CDs

Post by Joe Butler »

I am restoring a Kittiwake 24' (an Alberg design similar to the CD
Typhoon Sr). The backstay has failed on my boat due to water
leaking around the stay (which goes through the deck) and rotting
the wooden knee to which it was attached. The question is, how is
the backstay attached on the CDs? From pictures I have seen, it
appears to be attached farther aft than mine, through the teak rail
above the transom. Is there a special fitting available for this?
Or is there some kind of angled tang that is bolted to the transom?
As long as I have to fix this thing, I might as well do it better
than it was done originally. Joe Butler



h.j.butler@tcu.edu
Lee Hodsdon

Re: Backstay attachment on CDs

Post by Lee Hodsdon »

Spartan Marine makes a cast bronze fitting for the CD's. It is through bolted at the teak rail as you surmised. Use a backing plate of aluminum, and check the hole location twice before you drill. Bedding compound should be used between the fitting and the teak.

Lee Hodsdon
CD 25D, LOKI
Joe Butler wrote: I am restoring a Kittiwake 24' (an Alberg design similar to the CD
Typhoon Sr). The backstay has failed on my boat due to water
leaking around the stay (which goes through the deck) and rotting
the wooden knee to which it was attached. The question is, how is
the backstay attached on the CDs? From pictures I have seen, it
appears to be attached farther aft than mine, through the teak rail
above the transom. Is there a special fitting available for this?
Or is there some kind of angled tang that is bolted to the transom?
As long as I have to fix this thing, I might as well do it better
than it was done originally. Joe Butler


lhodsdon@msn.com
Joe Butler

Re: Backstay attachment on CDs Many thanks for your reply!

Post by Joe Butler »

Lee Hodsdon wrote: Spartan Marine makes a cast bronze fitting for the CD's. It is through bolted at the teak rail as you surmised. Use a backing plate of aluminum, and check the hole location twice before you drill. Bedding compound should be used between the fitting and the teak.

CD 25D, LOKI
Joe Butler wrote: I am restoring a Kittiwake 24' (an Alberg design similar to the CD
Typhoon Sr). The backstay has failed on my boat due to water
leaking around the stay (which goes through the deck) and rotting
the wooden knee to which it was attached. The question is, how is
the backstay attached on the CDs? From pictures I have seen, it
appears to be attached farther aft than mine, through the teak rail
above the transom. Is there a special fitting available for this?
Or is there some kind of angled tang that is bolted to the transom?
As long as I have to fix this thing, I might as well do it better
than it was done originally. Joe Butler


h.j.butler@tcu.edu
Lee Hodsdon

Re: Backstay attachment on CDs Many thanks for your reply!

Post by Lee Hodsdon »

Joe,

Yes it is dead center. I just had a thought, make sure that the deck will take the load from the back stay. That knee probably transferred the load to the hull. Second use bedding compound, one that can be removed if necessary, not something permanent.

Lee
Joe Butler wrote:
Lee Hodsdon wrote: Spartan Marine makes a cast bronze fitting for the CD's. It is through bolted at the teak rail as you surmised. Use a backing plate of aluminum, and check the hole location twice before you drill. Bedding compound should be used between the fitting and the teak.

CD 25D, LOKI
Joe Butler wrote: I am restoring a Kittiwake 24' (an Alberg design similar to the CD
Typhoon Sr). The backstay has failed on my boat due to water
leaking around the stay (which goes through the deck) and rotting
the wooden knee to which it was attached. The question is, how is
the backstay attached on the CDs? From pictures I have seen, it
appears to be attached farther aft than mine, through the teak rail
above the transom. Is there a special fitting available for this?
Or is there some kind of angled tang that is bolted to the transom?
As long as I have to fix this thing, I might as well do it better
than it was done originally. Joe Butler


lhodsdon@msn.com
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