What to do with Rusted Metal?

[Zeida Cecilia-Mendez]

On my CapeDory 33, the engine, a universal atomic 1981 diesel, is attached to the boat on three different points. The first one, in front of the engine, is right under the crankcase belt, mounted into a very thick metal bar that goes from one side to the other of the engine well. This bar is extremely rusted, and pieces of this corrosion are constantly falling into the little bilge right under the engine. Does anyone know of any type of product that can be applied or painted on, etc. to try to improve this situation..? Or is there no solution for rusted metal? I spent all day yesterday inside the engine area (I fit right in front of the steering quadrant, facing the back side -the muffler and transmission- of my engine) with a steel brush and vinegar, trying to clean all the electrical contacts and/or metal that had that green corrosion on. I have to replace a broken muffler plate, which has the two aft corners broken where it screws to the muffler itself, plus the red hose that goes from the water tank in the cockpit locker into the heat exchanger. And as hard as I tried yesterday, I could not unscrew the pencil ZINC in the heat exchanger, which I doubt the previous owner ever replaced. I bought a new one, but have not been able to put it in yet, because apparently that bolt has frozen there. But my main questions is to find out if there is a way in which to fight RUST down there, once it has taken over that metal bar. Any ideas? thanks for the input.
Zeida
Bandolera II / CD-33
Key Biscayne, FL



zcecil@ibm.net

[chuck yahrling]

On my CapeDory 33, the engine, a universal atomic 1981 diesel, is attached to the boat on three different points. The first one, in front of the engine, is right under the crankcase belt, mounted into a very thick metal bar that goes from one side to the other of the engine well. This bar is extremely rusted, and pieces of this corrosion are constantly falling into the little bilge right under the engine. Does anyone know of any type of product that can be applied or painted on, etc. to try to improve this situation..? Or is there no solution for rusted metal? I spent all day yesterday inside the engine area (I fit right in front of the steering quadrant, facing the back side -the muffler and transmission- of my engine) with a steel brush and vinegar, trying to clean all the electrical contacts and/or metal that had that green corrosion on. I have to replace a broken muffler plate, which has the two aft corners broken where it screws to the muffler itself, plus the red hose that goes from the water tank in the cockpit locker into the heat exchanger. And as hard as I tried yesterday, I could not unscrew the pencil ZINC in the heat exchanger, which I doubt the previous owner ever replaced. I bought a new one, but have not been able to put it in yet, because apparently that bolt has frozen there. But my main questions is to find out if there is a way in which to fight RUST down there, once it has taken over that metal bar. Any ideas? thanks for the input.
Zeida
Bandolera II / CD-33
Key Biscayne, FL

There are a variety of metal treatments that go right over rust, combining with it to form a protective coating. RustOleum makes the one probably best known, but your local paint store ought to have a few other choices. I selected one that claimed it was good at arresting corrosion, and was suitable as a primer, for treating the rust on my engine mount stringers. Over that I am painting some high-heat grey engine enamel. Time will tell if it was a good choice.



yahrling@cybertours.com

[Tom]

On my CapeDory 33, the engine, a universal atomic 1981 diesel, is attached to the boat on three different points. The first one, in front of the engine, is right under the crankcase belt, mounted into a very thick metal bar that goes from one side to the other of the engine well. This bar is extremely rusted, and pieces of this corrosion are constantly falling into the little bilge right under the engine. Does anyone know of any type of product that can be applied or painted on, etc. to try to improve this situation..? Or is there no solution for rusted metal? I spent all day yesterday inside the engine area (I fit right in front of the steering quadrant, facing the back side -the muffler and transmission- of my engine) with a steel brush and vinegar, trying to clean all the electrical contacts and/or metal that had that green corrosion on. I have to replace a broken muffler plate, which has the two aft corners broken where it screws to the muffler itself, plus the red hose that goes from the water tank in the cockpit locker into the heat exchanger. And as hard as I tried yesterday, I could not unscrew the pencil ZINC in the heat exchanger, which I doubt the previous owner ever replaced. I bought a new one, but have not been able to put it in yet, because apparently that bolt has frozen there. But my main questions is to find out if there is a way in which to fight RUST down there, once it has taken over that metal bar. Any ideas? thanks for the input.
Zeida
Bandolera II / CD-33
Key Biscayne, FL

The usual wayto treat rusted metal is to first wire brush it to remove all loose material, then treat it with "Ospho". Ospho is actually a version of phosphoric acid so that now that their patent has run out other companys have come out with their own version called "metal etch" or words to that effect. This removes the rust and prepares the metal for a finish. In the old days one applied red lead, but it actually worked so it's outlawed now as environmentally unfriendly. On the back of the can of paint you're finally going to use they will tell you which primer to use on bare metal. It's usually some version of zinc chromate primer. Finally apply the finish paint. It's not forever and you have to stay on it or spring for a stainless steel or bronze replacement.



TacCambria@thegrid.net

[Jerry Hammernik]

Zeida,
There is a product called POR-15 (Paint Over Rust). I've used it on automobile undercarriage parts here in Wisconsin. It holds up remarkably well through Wisconsin winters (they throw a lot of salt around here). It forms an impervious coating over the metal that doesn't allow oxygen through. No oxygen, no corrosion. You knock off the loose pieces of rust and you can paint over the rest. (Hence the name!) You can find it in auto magazines. I'll look around for it and post their 800 number if I can find it. It's usually about $20 qt. If it's going to be exposed to sunlight it should be topcoated but in the engine compartment it should be fine. It forms a very durable coating. I've hit it with a hammer without chipping it. Hope this helps.
Jerry




dauntles@execpc.com

[Donna Delahanty]

Zeida,

There is a product called Navel Jelly that works well to remove rust. Navel Jelly can be found in hardware stores and is not expensive at all. (Doesn't say marine on it) We used it for the metal motor mount on our inflatable dinghy and it worked great. I do recommend painting the metal, once the rust is removed, with one of the products mentioned in the other posts.

Donna

On my CapeDory 33, the engine, a universal atomic 1981 diesel, is attached to the boat on three different points. The first one, in front of the engine, is right under the crankcase belt, mounted into a very thick metal bar that goes from one side to the other of the engine well. This bar is extremely rusted, and pieces of this corrosion are constantly falling into the little bilge right under the engine. Does anyone know of any type of product that can be applied or painted on, etc. to try to improve this situation..? Or is there no solution for rusted metal? I spent all day yesterday inside the engine area (I fit right in front of the steering quadrant, facing the back side -the muffler and transmission- of my engine) with a steel brush and vinegar, trying to clean all the electrical contacts and/or metal that had that green corrosion on. I have to replace a broken muffler plate, which has the two aft corners broken where it screws to the muffler itself, plus the red hose that goes from the water tank in the cockpit locker into the heat exchanger. And as hard as I tried yesterday, I could not unscrew the pencil ZINC in the heat exchanger, which I doubt the previous owner ever replaced. I bought a new one, but have not been able to put it in yet, because apparently that bolt has frozen there. But my main questions is to find out if there is a way in which to fight RUST down there, once it has taken over that metal bar. Any ideas? thanks for the input.
Zeida
Bandolera II / CD-33
Key Biscayne, FL

maxg@fuse.net

[Stephen Marino]

I agree with the first three responses the suggestion you use Naval Jelly as the best one. That product is chemically correct for removing rust in addition it will stick to vertical surfaces while it does it's thing.

The rustolum paint solution is to be used only after you have stopped or gotten the rust in remission.

Good Luck



smarino@banet.net