veneer repair

chase · Post by **chase** » Dec 30th, '05, 18:57

The veneer in a section of the galley, just below the companionway is starting to pull off from water damage. There is also a place below the head sink pump that is more damaged where there are a series of square inches of the veneer that is kinda shredded. For now I'm inclined to sand and varnish and perhaps one day replace when I come across some plywood scrap. What thickness is the plywood? Some "marine grade" mahogany program? Bet that's cheap.

For the section in the galley, I was going to use a syringe to put some adhesive behind the areas pulling away and put some weight against it ahile it sets. Would epoxy be a good choice for this? Then I was going to sand and varnish and caulk so it is protected from water. Regular silicone?

Is a spar urethane from the hardware store a reasonable choice for such a repair? The veneer will likely still be stained since it is such a thin layer and will look a bit funky anyway so I hate to put a really high dollar finish on it unless I'm counseled otherwise. Any suggestions for feathering the new varnish into the undamaged existing finish?

Should I use another product for the floor? Most of the surfaces are in very good condition for a 25 year old boat except a couple of "low spots" and are to be expected from constant pump weeping. etc.

I just want to get ahead of this deterioration; any suggestions will be very much appreciated.

Hope yawl have a happy new year, and get lots of time with your boats!

Chase Hubbard

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Dec 30th, '05, 19:18

Chase,
A lot of water insoluble adhesives should do the job. Personally, for veneers and Formica type coverings, I prefer to use contact cement.

Warning. When working in enclosed quarters, such as your cabin, make sure that it is a fume free type adhesive or, at the very least, provide adequate air flow ventilation. The fumes associated with some adhesives are quite dangerous.

Good luck, O J

Tim Mertinooke · Post by **Tim Mertinooke** » Dec 30th, '05, 20:34

I second the contact cement. I have a good friend who is a woodworker. He has tried it all and swears by contact cement for repairing veneers. Just make sure you prep the wood well, and that you get it lined up exactly how you want it before clamping it. Good Luck. Tim

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Dec 30th, '05, 21:00

Clear packing tape is one of the best most under rated clamping systems ever used. You can even stick the lose piece to it so you can keep it held back till the cement sets, then just stick it down. Best part is you can see how you are doing, Steve.

chase · Post by **chase** » Dec 30th, '05, 23:23

Ok, that's great advice - contact cement and clamping with clear packing tape. Check!

Thanks, guys-

Chase

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Dec 30th, '05, 23:46

How timely Steve.

I just had a piece pull up last week and I was wondering how the heck I was going to get it back in place and "clamp it"!!!

I gotta tell you the information found on this board is well worth the $40 a year! Keep those CARDS AND LETTERS (checks and Applications) COMING folks

Also, the pics look like a wonderful day (CD30 Frostbiting on Fisher's Island Sound). I just splashed Rhapsody today and hope to get a sail in either tomorrow or New Years Day (or both). The Wx forecast sure seems to be agreeable (record hi temps and lots of wind and we could sure use some rain).

Happy New Year.

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Dec 31st, '05, 03:28

Chase,

If you opt to go the contact cement route, a common practice is that after the veneer is glued in place, go over the entire area with pressure on a roller. A wallpaper seam roller will do. Work from the center toward the edges.

Another method to ensure the greatest adhesiveness and eliminate any trapped air is to wrap a block of wood in cloth, place the block on the veneer and tap the wood with a mallet. Again, work from the center towards all edges.

Good luck,
O J

chase · Post by **chase** » Dec 31st, '05, 12:58

OJ et alia,

After a quick search, here's one example of some new mahogany veneer:

http://www.joewoodworker.com/catalog/pr ... 1fbfa8ab5f

Most of what they offer is highly figured but it seems like something a little clearer will match the stock interior. For less than $25 it might be worth replacing. Any thoughts on veneer types or sources?

Any suggestions for blending with the woodwork that is in good shape?

Thanks for the advice on the roller or block method. I once built a piece of furniture (nothing fancy) and used some veneer with a heat activated adhesive. I got into a bit of trouble with that.

Best,

Chase

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Dec 31st, '05, 13:37

Hi Chase,

I suggest that you try to match the new veneer with the existing wood. Sometimes, some people swap mahogany for teak. There are no hard and fast rules on what veneer or wood to use. Pick out something that pleases yourself. You're the one that has to live with it.

When you order, be careful of the stated width. Too narrow stock results in that you have to piece the work with several strips. If need be, don't forget to order matching edge banding veneer.

Sorry to say, most veneer projects wind up with a lot of material left over. Don't consider it waste, it can be used down the road by yourself or other admiring boat owners.

Here is another veneer supplier in your area. Rare Woods And Veneers.

www.rarewoodsandveneers.com

Good luck,
O J

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