Typhoon Hoist Strap

[DetroitTyphoon]

What are other typhoon owners doing to hoist their boats?

We have a ring in the bilge that screws to the keel. This is an ideal point to connect our strap to except that the design of the typhoon with its shoal draft keel makes it unstable as you lift it.

[DetroitTyphoon]

Ok,

I just read all of the other posts regarding the ring not being for hoisting and the need for a spreader for the straps.

This little 18 1/2' boat is more costly to hoist than a boat this size should be.

[Mitch F]

Maybe it is discouraged in the owners manual, but we launched and hauled our typhoon using the bilge ringbolt for more than a decade with no adverse consequences and I know of several others who still do. If you use a frame in the companionway to hold the lifting line steady and be sure not to stand under the airborne boat, you will *probably* have no problem. Good luck.

[Tim Mertinooke]

All sailors are different having their own ideas about what works and what doesn't, and it's not my place nor anyone else's to say what is definitively right. Although the ring placed in the bilge of the Typhoon would probably hold the weight of the boat, I think it wise and prudent to follow Cape Dory's recomendation as well as that of countless Typhoon owners and use straps instead. The eye was used to place the 900lbs of lead into the bilge and was never intended to hold the entire weight of the boat for launch. It is not difficult to use the strap method, and if you have any questions about how to set them up feel free to e-mail me or just make a post on this knowledagble board.

[DetroitTyphoon]

Thanks!

Now does anyone know where can I get the straps and the spreader costs effectively?

[Oswego John]

Tim,

I agree with what you said. It is certainly an owners prerogative to raise his boat in any fashion he desired. I also agree that the safest way is to use a set of straps to lift it rather than one cable attached to the ring in the keel ballast.

I have always used straps to raise and lower my Tys. To be honest about the matter, I've never had the chutzpa to try the keel ring.

I took notice of what Mitch mentioned about using a frame in the companionway to secure the single lifting cable from wandering off center during the lift. Using the single lift cable system, I suppose that it goes without saying, that the boat should be either completely empty or otherwise balanced to a reasonable degree of equilibrium to prevent any severe teeter totter on the single cable.

Some people advocate using spreaders while lifting with straps fore and aft. I've never felt compelled to use them when raising a Ty. The Ty weighs about 2,000 lbs. When lifting with a fore and aft web strap, the load breaks down to about 500 lbs on each strap. (fore and aft, port - fore and aft, stb'd).

If the lifting straps are barely long enough to do the job, this will result in an obtuse angle and spreaders should definitely be used. The longer the lifting straps are (within common reason) the more acute the strap angle will be, resulting in less hull crushing pressure.

I was going to pose a question to any budding engineers or mathematician wannabes. I was going to see if anyone out there can figure out the difference in length of the two straps, using Tim's diagram for reference, in order to raise the hull on a level plane, bow level with the transom. Clue: There is an X-factor, if detected, will expose the whole megillah.

But I've decided not to pose this question at this time. After all, tis the season to be jolly.

Ho ho ho,
O j

[DetroitTyphoon]

So Oswego John,

My challenge using straps in the past has been the slippage trying to hook all 4 points to a single crane without spreaders.

You are suggesting that longer straps will resolve this...no spreader needed?

My ability to run the math problem today is limited so I am looking for an easy out.

How long are your straps that you use on a single hoist (no spreader)?

Do you place them where Tim proposes?

Where can I get economical straps?

Thanks for the insights

[Oswego John]

Detroit Typhoon

Hi D. T.

Sorry, no easy way out on the test question. At least for now. Same answer goes for how long my straps are. That would give the whole thing away.

Yes, I basically place the straps where Tim indicated. You can get them exact when launching the boat. Pulling the boat out in the fall is something else. Then, you get them as close as you can to where Tim shows.

You can find page after page of addresses and other info on where to find straps. Go to Google and type in "Web Slings".

I suggest that you get Nylon or other man made synthetic slings. Pound for pound, they are stronger and more importantly, they wont rot.

Good hunting,
O J

[detroittyphoon]

So my question last winter turned into an opportunity for math quizzes and I was never able to get an answer.

Does anybody use two straps similar to the digram shown in the earlier post from Tim with a single point of connection (no spreaders)?

If so, How long are the straps?

Thanks

[detroittyphoon]

18'?

[detroittyphoon]

18'?

[Oswego John]

Detroit Typhoon,

No quiz today. Quizzes are okay during the long winter, but boat prep time today is valuable.

First off, if you are using a boatyard crane or hoist, most operations already have a full complement of slings, straps, etc, of all lengths and widths for any size boat to be raised. Maybe, you don't have to go out and buy your own straps.

There is nothing etched in stone that says that you must use lifting straps, especially of a certain, specific length. Quite often, slings are used that are made of man made line (rope). The beauty of using line is that after trial and error, the lengths can be adjusted by simply retying bowlines for the hook.

If you are concerned that the line will mar the hull, place an old pfd or other padding under the line at the rub rail. You don't want the aft strap or sling to squeeze the top of the coamings. Longer slings will keep this from happening. If push comes to shove, you can always place a notched board spreader on the coamings, which is a little longer than the width of the coamings..

The bow sling is shorter than the aft sling. A rule of thumb for MIMIMUM sling length is to measure the distance from the center of the keel to the rub rail (allowing for the rake) and then doubling it. That is good for one side of the hull. That distance must be doubled to allow for the opposite side of the hull. Remember, this is the minimum length. Longer is better than shorter. The longer the sling, the less crushing effect. If in doubt , add to the lengths.

Just for giggles, try starting with 26' for the aft sling and 22' for the f'wrd sling.

Good luck,
O J

[detroittyphoon]

Thanks Oswego John!

I'll let you know how it turns out.

[winthrop fisher]

well Tim and others have said it all, but be careful when doing that... winthrop

[Mark Yashinsky]

tie the front and back starps together ASAP. Front, just above where the two halves of the hull meet and the line can go back to the back one in the open space between the turn of the hull and the keel. This is to prevent the front strap from slidding up the cutaway forefoot, and that front strap will want to!!