We are hauling our Sea Sprite 23 on Friday. SS's are an Alberg design similar to a CD22 or CD25D. She was new to us this year. We floated her off the trailer but have never tried to put her back on the trailer. There are 4 pads (adjusted properly when she was put on the trailer with a crane) and a bow chock.
The trailer does have keel guides and we have a very long trailer extension (owned by the marina). We're planning on doing it with just two people. We have dropping the rig down to a science, but I'd feel a lot better if someone was willing to share the process they use getting ON the trailer.
She's in a freshwater lake with a decent boat ramp. Friday is slated to be the coldest day of the year, but it will also be the calmest wind through Sunday. Monday we turn into pumpkins and owe the marina slip fees for the winter!
Thanks in advance,
Bly
Haul out advice/experience needed
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Some Haulout Advice
Hi Bly,
Hauling out is a pretty straightforward event when done right. When certain things get out of hand, there can be much weeping and gnashing of teeth. I'll mention a few things to watch out for that could cause you trouble.
Even though your trailer has keel guides, if the trailer is too far down the ramp, too deep, the keel will be floating above the guides and be blown sideways. Some owners have added stiff, vertical guides on either side of the aft end of the trailer in order to help center the stern.
If you won't have time to install the guides, take a piece of 3/8" or so line and tie each end of it to either side of the trailer frame. This line has to be long enough to allow the boat to pass under it while the boat is being winched in. The line should have a reference mark in it's center so that the helper standing in the boat can tug equally on both sides of the line to help center the boat as it is being towed out. The direct pull on the winch cable will center the bow.
You should check the swivel heads on the adjustable screw pads to ensure even contact on the hull. I don't know how cold the lake water is this time of the year. Some guys use fishing waders to adjust the pads, but it can be done with the use of a dink or raft.
If possible, maybe by the use of a sheave that is mounted on a vertical post at the front of the trailer, try to have the winch line at least even, or a little bit higher than the bow deck so that it does'nt pull the bow downward when hauling in. This way the cutwater will seat in it's proper spot on the bow vee support.
This year will be a learning process. The following years will be a piece of cake.
Good luck,
O J
Hauling out is a pretty straightforward event when done right. When certain things get out of hand, there can be much weeping and gnashing of teeth. I'll mention a few things to watch out for that could cause you trouble.
Even though your trailer has keel guides, if the trailer is too far down the ramp, too deep, the keel will be floating above the guides and be blown sideways. Some owners have added stiff, vertical guides on either side of the aft end of the trailer in order to help center the stern.
If you won't have time to install the guides, take a piece of 3/8" or so line and tie each end of it to either side of the trailer frame. This line has to be long enough to allow the boat to pass under it while the boat is being winched in. The line should have a reference mark in it's center so that the helper standing in the boat can tug equally on both sides of the line to help center the boat as it is being towed out. The direct pull on the winch cable will center the bow.
You should check the swivel heads on the adjustable screw pads to ensure even contact on the hull. I don't know how cold the lake water is this time of the year. Some guys use fishing waders to adjust the pads, but it can be done with the use of a dink or raft.
If possible, maybe by the use of a sheave that is mounted on a vertical post at the front of the trailer, try to have the winch line at least even, or a little bit higher than the bow deck so that it does'nt pull the bow downward when hauling in. This way the cutwater will seat in it's proper spot on the bow vee support.
This year will be a learning process. The following years will be a piece of cake.
Good luck,
O J
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bhartley
- Posts: 449
- Joined: Aug 23rd, '05, 09:26
- Location: Sea Sprite #527 "Ariel"
CD25D #184 "Pyxis"
CDSOA Member #785
Thanks --- and next should be easier!!!
Ariel is safely back in our driveway next to our Typhoon winter project. It will certainly be easier next year as this was a real learning process. Little things like knowing the ramp is only paved on one side after 4-5 feep back would have helped. Once the trailer was on the paved side, things went pretty smoothly. Our trailer has no winch so getting the cutwater to sit right took several tries.
One thing we did use (that might help someone else in the future) was a photo of the boat when she was loaded on the trailer (by a crane last time). We were able to assess how well she was sitting on the trailer by looking at the waterline and the pads along with the bow position and how deep we had to bury the trailer. We studied the photo ahead and did refer to it once during the process.
It took a little longer than we had planned to drop the rig and get everything lashed down so we arrived home in the dark. All in all a pretty uneventful day and my husband and I are still speaking to each other!
It would have been a beautiful day for a sail... but spring will be here soon.
Cheers,
Bly
One thing we did use (that might help someone else in the future) was a photo of the boat when she was loaded on the trailer (by a crane last time). We were able to assess how well she was sitting on the trailer by looking at the waterline and the pads along with the bow position and how deep we had to bury the trailer. We studied the photo ahead and did refer to it once during the process.
It took a little longer than we had planned to drop the rig and get everything lashed down so we arrived home in the dark. All in all a pretty uneventful day and my husband and I are still speaking to each other!
It would have been a beautiful day for a sail... but spring will be here soon.
Cheers,
Bly
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Steve Darwin
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Jul 2nd, '05, 19:48
- Location: CD 25D "Arabella" Fairhaven, Mass
Hi Bly,
I have a Cape Cod Bull's Eye, also on a trailer with four screw-jacks (I think they'e called "poppets" - essentially, the tops of Brownell boat stands?). It's a lot lighter than a Sea Sprite, but can still be a pain-in-the-*** to haul. Anyway, John makes excellent suggestions, especially to add vertical guides to help "capture" the keel and keep the boat centered on the trailer, and to have the winch positioned so the bow is not pulled downward when you winch in.
On my trailer, the bow is held in (bumps up against) an adjustable rubber "V," which limits the boat's forward movement. To launch, I screw down only the two stern poppets and lower the trailer until the boat slides off. Easy - assuming that someone remembers to tether the boat so it doesn't drift away!
The two forward poppets and bow "V" I don't move; they are locked in place with set screws (to fix their position when trailering), and I also have them marked with paint so I know where they need to be when the boat is pulled onto the trailer. To haul, I know I have to submerge the trailer until the two forward poppets (pads) are just below the surface (i.e., for this boat, two inches below the boat's water line).
As John says, it's a learning process and gets easier each time you do it, although I often end up taking a swim ...
I have a Cape Cod Bull's Eye, also on a trailer with four screw-jacks (I think they'e called "poppets" - essentially, the tops of Brownell boat stands?). It's a lot lighter than a Sea Sprite, but can still be a pain-in-the-*** to haul. Anyway, John makes excellent suggestions, especially to add vertical guides to help "capture" the keel and keep the boat centered on the trailer, and to have the winch positioned so the bow is not pulled downward when you winch in.
On my trailer, the bow is held in (bumps up against) an adjustable rubber "V," which limits the boat's forward movement. To launch, I screw down only the two stern poppets and lower the trailer until the boat slides off. Easy - assuming that someone remembers to tether the boat so it doesn't drift away!
The two forward poppets and bow "V" I don't move; they are locked in place with set screws (to fix their position when trailering), and I also have them marked with paint so I know where they need to be when the boat is pulled onto the trailer. To haul, I know I have to submerge the trailer until the two forward poppets (pads) are just below the surface (i.e., for this boat, two inches below the boat's water line).
As John says, it's a learning process and gets easier each time you do it, although I often end up taking a swim ...
Steve Darwin
CD 25D "Arabella"
Fairhaven, Mass
CD 25D "Arabella"
Fairhaven, Mass
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bhartley
- Posts: 449
- Joined: Aug 23rd, '05, 09:26
- Location: Sea Sprite #527 "Ariel"
CD25D #184 "Pyxis"
CDSOA Member #785
Keel Guides
Our keel guides are about 14" up so they didn't really need extending. Interestingly, they are made out of 2" PVC pipe (with a strong bend on the aft end) and attached with tall angle brackets.
What we did do to see better was attach a piece of CPVC to each of the poppets. They were just duct taped on near the base so they could be pushed out of the way by the boat.
When the trailer was submerged (both sets of poppets were underwater), I could still see the position of the trailer and was able to shoot right down the center. The trailer was somewhat crooked on the ramp so "seeing" the poppets was the key. I was also able to grab the top and shift the boat slightly when she was still floating.
What we did do to see better was attach a piece of CPVC to each of the poppets. They were just duct taped on near the base so they could be pushed out of the way by the boat.
When the trailer was submerged (both sets of poppets were underwater), I could still see the position of the trailer and was able to shoot right down the center. The trailer was somewhat crooked on the ramp so "seeing" the poppets was the key. I was also able to grab the top and shift the boat slightly when she was still floating.
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Steve Darwin
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Jul 2nd, '05, 19:48
- Location: CD 25D "Arabella" Fairhaven, Mass
Re: Keel Guides
Great idea. Thanks. I'll try this next year.bhartley wrote:What we did do to see better was attach a piece of CPVC to each of the poppets. They were just duct taped on near the base so they could be pushed out of the way by the boat.
Steve Darwin
CD 25D "Arabella"
Fairhaven, Mass
CD 25D "Arabella"
Fairhaven, Mass
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M. R. Bober
- Posts: 1122
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 08:59
- Location: CARETAKER CD28 Flybridge Trawler
Re: Thanks --- and next should be easier!!!
I bet that lesson came as a real surprise. Hope there wasn't a steep dropoff, or that you weren't wearing hip waders.bhartley wrote:... It will certainly be easier next year as this was a real learning process. Little things like knowing the ramp is only paved on one side after 4-5 feep back would have helped...
Bly
When we hauled our trailer-able, we usually provided entertainment to the assembled multitude. Cross winds, cold water, polite exchanges between the skipper (on board) & the crew (up to her neck in icy water), lack of traction on the ramp all conspired to 86 the trailor. The launch stories are even better, but they require rum.
Mitchell Bober
Sunny Annapolis (where the deer & the antelope don't play), MD
CDSOA Founding Member
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DanaVin
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 22:32
- Location: Cape Dory 25, "Gladys Erzella", San Diego Bay--1977, Hull #541
- Contact:
Lots of fun!
We normally don't have an issue retrieving GE but this last time we ran across a small problem. Besides having a strong wind blow down the ramp at an angle, our o/b, for some strange reason, just would not start after stalling out.
With the help of several friends we were finally able to get her on the trailer; albeit a little more aft than what we would have preferred, She fishtailed a little over 55 mph. Very unusual>
Our trailer has side bars sticking up over the deck with markings for 3, 3.5 and 4 feet so we can tell how far down the ramp to let the trailer go. We use a spare tire on the trailer vee that swings down and acts as a fifth wheel. A long chain and we're ready to go.
Normally, after the hard work of the mast and rigging, either launching her or retriving her is a breeze. Except this last time!
We also have a 10' extension bar but have not used it yet.
Some photos at
http://scGladysErzella.photosite.com
The swing down spare tire is a godsend when doing any of the above chores. You just shouldn't turn with it down.
Dana Vin
CD25
With the help of several friends we were finally able to get her on the trailer; albeit a little more aft than what we would have preferred, She fishtailed a little over 55 mph. Very unusual>
Our trailer has side bars sticking up over the deck with markings for 3, 3.5 and 4 feet so we can tell how far down the ramp to let the trailer go. We use a spare tire on the trailer vee that swings down and acts as a fifth wheel. A long chain and we're ready to go.
Normally, after the hard work of the mast and rigging, either launching her or retriving her is a breeze. Except this last time!
We also have a 10' extension bar but have not used it yet.
Some photos at
http://scGladysErzella.photosite.com
The swing down spare tire is a godsend when doing any of the above chores. You just shouldn't turn with it down.
Dana Vin
CD25