Hello,
We just purchased a CD30, and sailed her from Mayo, MD to Norfolk VA. My goal was Oriental, NC but that is a different story.
I wonder if anyone can tell me in what order should you raise and lower sail. Traditionally you would start from stern to bow, then reverse the order. When I used this method the Cutter did get in the way of the Jib. Does anyone have any recommendations.
Also, she did seem to prefer the Port heading over the Starboard. Given our working wind direction, we had to pinch at a high angle but she definitely preferred the Port tack.
And, what should I be concerned about with the Volvo-Penta MD7a. This engine made 5 kts without wind and 4.3kts with wind on the bow. She did overheat, and I had to replace the closed system impeller. This impellor was easy to get to, but the raw water impellor is a different story.
Any info would be helpful.
Thanks,
David-Ian
CD- 30 Cutter Questions !
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Jay Kanavos
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Feb 12th, '05, 15:39
- Location: 1984 CD-30C "JenEric", #327, B-layout
D-I,
I've never really thought about your "stern-bow" philosophy. However, for pure ease, I always raise the main first, then the staysail. I raise the staysail after the main because I'm already at the mast so it's just easier to move to the port side and raise it. Then, when I get back into the cockpit, I use the roller furler to unfurl the yankee. When I'm ready to douse the sails (on the return), I use the exact reverse order. I always furl the yankee first because when I reduce sail, I'm pointing into the wind and would rather not have the yankee flapping about as I'm trying to lower the staysail.
As for your engine question, I have the Universal M-14 and haven't experienced the problems you describe. I'm not sure why you are experiencing different sailing characteristics on a particular tack, I'd be interested in hearing others thoughts on this. I've never really noticed a difference, but the next time I'm out, I'll definitely check it out.
Jay
I've never really thought about your "stern-bow" philosophy. However, for pure ease, I always raise the main first, then the staysail. I raise the staysail after the main because I'm already at the mast so it's just easier to move to the port side and raise it. Then, when I get back into the cockpit, I use the roller furler to unfurl the yankee. When I'm ready to douse the sails (on the return), I use the exact reverse order. I always furl the yankee first because when I reduce sail, I'm pointing into the wind and would rather not have the yankee flapping about as I'm trying to lower the staysail.
As for your engine question, I have the Universal M-14 and haven't experienced the problems you describe. I'm not sure why you are experiencing different sailing characteristics on a particular tack, I'd be interested in hearing others thoughts on this. I've never really noticed a difference, but the next time I'm out, I'll definitely check it out.
Jay
Jay
s/v JenEric, #327
CD-30C, B-layout
Boston, MA
s/v JenEric, #327
CD-30C, B-layout
Boston, MA
-
Guest
feathers on an arrow
Hi:
I have always subscribed to the "feathers on an arrow" idea when it comes to raising and lowering sails. It goes like this. The feathers are on the back (downwind) side of the arrow so it will fly true. This means that depending on wind direction I want to raise the sail on the down wind end of the boat first. Usually I raise the sails with the bow into the wind so that means the main comes up first
Sometimes I plan on a downwind run with the wind over the stern quarter, I then unroll the headsail first, main second if used. BTW Tern runs like on rails with just a headsail and I suspect all CD's are the same.
Keeping the canvas on the downwind end of the boat ensures stability and good course keeping during the process. You dont have to fight with a boat that inherently wants to go where you don't want. EG... swap course 180 degrees. Image trying to close haul with just a headsail.
Dropping the main almost always has to be done with the wind on the bow since mine will not drop if there is any wind pressure on it. Therefore rolling up the headsail is first, main second....except for...the following:
I single hand, even with guests aboard so I heave to, putting the main in the wind shadow of the headsail and let the main drop. This works very well as it stabilizes the boat till the main is tied down. I then fall off and roll in the head sail.
Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MKII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.
I have always subscribed to the "feathers on an arrow" idea when it comes to raising and lowering sails. It goes like this. The feathers are on the back (downwind) side of the arrow so it will fly true. This means that depending on wind direction I want to raise the sail on the down wind end of the boat first. Usually I raise the sails with the bow into the wind so that means the main comes up first
Sometimes I plan on a downwind run with the wind over the stern quarter, I then unroll the headsail first, main second if used. BTW Tern runs like on rails with just a headsail and I suspect all CD's are the same.
Keeping the canvas on the downwind end of the boat ensures stability and good course keeping during the process. You dont have to fight with a boat that inherently wants to go where you don't want. EG... swap course 180 degrees. Image trying to close haul with just a headsail.
Dropping the main almost always has to be done with the wind on the bow since mine will not drop if there is any wind pressure on it. Therefore rolling up the headsail is first, main second....except for...the following:
I single hand, even with guests aboard so I heave to, putting the main in the wind shadow of the headsail and let the main drop. This works very well as it stabilizes the boat till the main is tied down. I then fall off and roll in the head sail.
Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MKII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.
-
Chuck
- Posts: 145
- Joined: Mar 27th, '05, 14:49
- Location: CD30 Cutter, "To The Moon"
Galveston Bay, TX
CD 30 Cutter
I think these guys have already said it. Main first, the the staysail before the yankee. Always! The MD 7 engine is a proven engine. Just gotta find the right mechanic. (I have the Universal, but same story, find a mechanic familiar with the engine.)
Chuck
MD7A
Been using MD7A for over 20 years with no bottom rebuild.
With clean prop and bottom still get 6.6 kts @ 2300 rpm
5.5 kts @ 2000 rpm 4.0-4.5 kts @ 1500 rpm on CD30K.....
Depending on bottom growth and barnacles on prop speeds
can be reduced as much as a knot.....when that happens is time to get wet and clean things up......
Good luck
With clean prop and bottom still get 6.6 kts @ 2300 rpm
5.5 kts @ 2000 rpm 4.0-4.5 kts @ 1500 rpm on CD30K.....
Depending on bottom growth and barnacles on prop speeds
can be reduced as much as a knot.....when that happens is time to get wet and clean things up......
Good luck
Jim Lewis
-
sakajote
CD 30 questions
Hi--if you feel you are pointing better on one tack or the other you need to look at your rig.
Sight up the luff groove on the mast to determine if the groove is straight. If not, ease you lowers and get the uppers the same. Run a tape measure up the main halyard and measure down to each uppr shroud chainplate. Hopefully the measurements are the same but before taking up on one or easing the other, sight the mast again. If the luff grove is straight, note the measurements to the upper chainplates, mark the turnbuckles with a sharpie or other and dont make the shrouds equal length--a straight luff groove is what is important. If the measurements are different and the luff groove is not straight, adjust the turnbuckles to get the luff groove as straight as possible.
Set your upper shroud tension---there are probably recommendations on this--on boats that race this is a precision measurement. To start tighten each equally till you get an inch of play on either side of the resting position. Check the luff groove again to make sure you kept it straight. If you have a loos gauge not the tension as a starting place.
Assuming you are happy with your back and forestay, adjust the lowers to keep the mast in column athwartships (luff groove straight again) and also to keep it in column fore and aft or with a slight bend below the spreaders. You can check this prebend by pulling your main halyard taut down to the gooseneck and look at the separation between halyard and mast.
Fine tuning the lowers should be done under sail. The middle of the mast should bow to leeward a bit going upwind to produce a bit more power. Start with an inch or so of movement in the lower and then go sailing. TIghten the lower until you have a small bit of uniform bend to leeward. Sail the other tack and repeat.
This is really pretty imprecise but it should get your rig acting the same on either tack. From there you can experiment/research mast specs, sailmakers or other folk to fine tune.
Sight up the luff groove on the mast to determine if the groove is straight. If not, ease you lowers and get the uppers the same. Run a tape measure up the main halyard and measure down to each uppr shroud chainplate. Hopefully the measurements are the same but before taking up on one or easing the other, sight the mast again. If the luff grove is straight, note the measurements to the upper chainplates, mark the turnbuckles with a sharpie or other and dont make the shrouds equal length--a straight luff groove is what is important. If the measurements are different and the luff groove is not straight, adjust the turnbuckles to get the luff groove as straight as possible.
Set your upper shroud tension---there are probably recommendations on this--on boats that race this is a precision measurement. To start tighten each equally till you get an inch of play on either side of the resting position. Check the luff groove again to make sure you kept it straight. If you have a loos gauge not the tension as a starting place.
Assuming you are happy with your back and forestay, adjust the lowers to keep the mast in column athwartships (luff groove straight again) and also to keep it in column fore and aft or with a slight bend below the spreaders. You can check this prebend by pulling your main halyard taut down to the gooseneck and look at the separation between halyard and mast.
Fine tuning the lowers should be done under sail. The middle of the mast should bow to leeward a bit going upwind to produce a bit more power. Start with an inch or so of movement in the lower and then go sailing. TIghten the lower until you have a small bit of uniform bend to leeward. Sail the other tack and repeat.
This is really pretty imprecise but it should get your rig acting the same on either tack. From there you can experiment/research mast specs, sailmakers or other folk to fine tune.